How do I remove swirl marks ?
This is a discussion on How do I remove swirl marks ? within the Showcar and Detailing forums, part of the General Help category; my paint looks great but on a day with direct sun light (paint is black) u can see lots of ...
03-01-2007, 08:50 PM #1
How do I remove swirl marks ?
my paint looks great but on a day with direct sun light (paint is black) u can see lots of swirl marks. how do I remove them ?
03-02-2007, 11:16 AM #2
yea thats a good question i have the same problem (black car also) anyone have advice?
03-02-2007, 11:36 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- oceanside ca
- 06 GTO
claying the car helps alot, but other than that and dont use brushs on your car that is all i can tell you.
03-02-2007, 12:10 PM #4
use a swirl mark remover. Almost every major car care company makes one
03-02-2007, 03:26 PM #5
03-02-2007, 05:39 PM #6
03-02-2007, 05:45 PM #7
03-02-2007, 06:45 PM #8
My friend has a black 02 SS also. He keeps it very clean, but after 4+ years he has built up alot of swirl marks. This past weekend I spent most of the day buffing it out with rubbing compound, polish, and a fresh coat of wax. Now it looks as good as it should. On Tuesday he pulled it out into the sun to take it to the shipping yard and it looked so good he was speachless. Black is one of the hardest to keep swirl marks out of, but using really good wax helps to keep them from being so noticable. Just remember that buffing a car with compound does remove some of the clear coat and one day, if you buff the car alot, you may buff through in spots. I prefer to buff cars out every once and a while, but I also spent 5 years working at a bodyshop and buffing on cars for 14 years.
03-02-2007, 07:53 PM #9
03-03-2007, 02:55 AM #10
03-03-2007, 06:50 AM #11
The dual action buffers, which my friend tried first a couple of summers ago. Was really only good for removing the wax after it was applied. I use a automotive buffer that you will find at most bodyshops or detail shops. Mine happens to be a black and decker single speed max of 1750 rpm. I can slow it down by not pulling the trigger in all the way. First make sure it is clean, use a good wax and grease remover to remove any tar and any contaiminantes, if needed. Then on black, I used a flat foam buffing pad and some miguires fine cut compound. I would rather have to go over an area a couple of times to get a scratch out than using the medium or heavy cut compounds and make it a 4 step/ times around. After that I went back around it with a foam waffle polishing pad and meguires machine glaze. Finally finishing with meguires nxt wax, which he had never used before, and I've been using since last summer on my car. He also said it was pretty compairable to the zaino that he had been using and was very impressed by it and he wouldn't even have to order it. Always let the weight of the buffer do the work. Do not apply pressure, and slow way down or do the edges and corners by hand. I also only use drops of each product to buff an area, and brake each panel into quadrents, don't try to do the whole panel at once. Hoods, 4 to 6, fenders and doors 2 to 4. That's were most inexperianced people buff and burn through their paint. Use making tape on thoes areas, it will give you a safty window.You can get all of these items at any paint supply store. I can go into more detail if needed, but I will need more specifics to help. Right now I don't have any good before and after shots yet.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; 03-03-2007 at 06:59 AM.
03-03-2007, 01:17 PM #12
Frozen WS6 recommended using a automotive buffer and thats true if have the experience that he has. But you will get yourself into trouble real fast if you don't.
I have a dual action buffer and never even thought of removing wax with it.
Always done it by hand..Though I guess you could.
Rotarys are more for if you have have "more than minor" paint inperfections. Anything less and a PC will more than be able to take care of the problems with the right pads and polish /compound. Very user friendly and without the fear of doing damage.2000 NBM WS6
03-03-2007, 01:42 PM #13
I don't agree with the statement that DA PC are for removing wax. While the ability of a rotary to remove defects has no compare, the PC is a good tool in its own right that can do the job albeit, taking a lot longer. The PC is a safe tool. For a detailing hobbyist, is great. As it was mentioned above, with the right pad and the right compound, the PC can produce great results.
Also, be aware that the clear coat on fbodies, and vettes is really hard. It needs the right pad/polisher combo. It will be time consuming with a PC, but it's very doable.
The rotary buffer is the right tool to have. The only downside is learning how to use it safely. With gained experience, you can achieve excellent results. There's a lot of room to burn the paint and cause holograms if you're not experienced with it. I use a PC, and with time, I will be stepping up to a rotary, but for now, my PC is doing the job I put it up to do
03-04-2007, 06:37 AM #14
I'm not disagreeing with you guys on the da buffer. We never got the results we wanted from them, and yes I've used them before, that is what I used when I first started. I'm just telling my experiances, and like I said after my friend used his. It looked ok but when you looked into the paint there was still a lot more wash swirl marks there that could come out. His car is always garaged, only driven on sunny days and has 30,000 miles so there wasn't alot of road debree in the paint. Also when I clean a car I'm going to bring it back to as close as new as I can, which means that every mark needs to be removed. Yes, I'm that picky. Even if it takes me two days. It all depends on the resaults you are looking for. Also to get practice with a rotary I would buff on daily driver vehicles until I felt comfortable. Then I went to show cars. I had a terry cloth bonet to put on the da buff that I had and used it to remove wax. It worked fine.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; 03-04-2007 at 06:45 AM.
03-04-2007, 10:51 AM #15
I have some scratches in my hood and they make me sick(they came with the car). It looks like someone sat on the hood and scratched it or maybe a cat did it. I cant feel them with my fingernail so I am hoping they will come out. I bought a porter cable 7424 buffer and a medium cutting pad. I also bought some medium cut polish/cleaner with micro particles that work with the heat produced by the cutting foam pad. I am gonna try it out today and do a little at a time. I figure I can always go back over it again rather than risk burning my paint. The car could really use a paint job but for now I think I can make it look presentable. My z28 is black and I also purchased a black wax (carnuba) that doesnt leave the white stuff in the scratches making them less noticable. Its called "black velvet carnuba wax" its not cheap but I used it just by hand and was amazed.It takes very little. The weird thing was that my micro fibre clothe I wiped the wax off with didnt turn black. Its also the easiest wax I ever used as for as wiping off. If you have a black car this stuff rules.
03-04-2007, 11:54 AM #16
What about a couple coats of Z5 (Zaino swirl and scrach remover) by hand?
03-04-2007, 01:17 PM #17
all this info is great thanx guys i cant wait till it warms up a bit around here so i can give my baby a full detail
03-04-2007, 01:51 PM #18
03-04-2007, 02:14 PM #19
I dont think your hand can create the heat needed to remove scratches/swirls from what I read. The buffer also basically does what you do with your hand but many times faster.Its like what a human could do after smoking crack. hahahaha . I dont think anyone could imitate a buffer with their hand. In my opinion. If you plan on keeping your car for a while like I do I think its a good investment. I got mine for 120 shipped. _____I never used zaino so i dont know about that but check this out:
I didnt buy my buffer from this place I got mine on amazon.
03-04-2007, 05:49 PM #20
great input thanks guys
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