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What's a good place for a sub?

This is a discussion on What's a good place for a sub? within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; True. I'd have to go with a shallow sub on the side area. I'm thinking about a system in my ...

  1. #21
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    True. I'd have to go with a shallow sub on the side area. I'm thinking about a system in my Impala actually. I hardly drive it though Wish I could put a system in my company Taurus lol. I'm in it more than anything. Just miss the sound and these threads always bring back memories.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    True. I'd have to go with a shallow sub on the side area. I'm thinking about a system in my Impala actually. I hardly drive it though Wish I could put a system in my company Taurus lol. I'm in it more than anything. Just miss the sound and these threads always bring back memories.
    Throw it in the company car. Just don't cut anything so you can put the stock stuff back in when you have to give it back.

  3. #23
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    I currently have 2 12" subs in a custom made box that i made myself. I have a hatchback, so no idea how a setup for the vert will work. I made a custom rack for my amps (1 for the subs and 1 for the mids and highs) on the back of the car opposite side of the tail lights. Then I made a sub box that sits on top of the hump that is in between the rear t-top well and the rear seats. My goal was to have a sub box and still have the stock location for my t-tops. Sounds amazing!!!

  4. #24
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller View Post
    A sub would help with the lower frequency a lot. You don't have to have it cranked, just add some bottom end to your music. When I turn my sub off you can see how much it adds. I just wish I had a bit more midrange.
    Yeah, when I'm driving with the top up (very rarely) I find myself turning up the bass boost on the equalizer. But with top down (most of my driving is at 75mph or more on rural freeway), in order to hear the music, I have to turn it up way loud, at which point there is all kinds of distortion. But you're right: top/windows up, the speakers alone have a nice sound with the equalizer set to give lots of bass.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  5. #25
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Get a 12 inch sub, put it in a stealth box, and toss it in the open area in the back drivers side corner of the hatch. I had 1 12 inch MTX running on a true 1000w amp in one of my old camaro's and it hit VERY hard. The hatch and the space in the back of the car makes it seem a lot more powerful than it actually is. I fooled people on a regular basis with that setup...nobody could ever believe I had just 1 sub back there.

  6. #26
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Systems today are insane with their high wattage ratings for both subs and amplifiers. In the setup above, I ran (2) 12" MTX subs powered by (2) separate amplifiers running in mono - each bridged to only produce 250W each max power to each sub. That system was one of the hardest hitting systems I've ever felt. Now they have 1000W+ amps. It boggles my mind. Turned up, my system would actually rattle your head when the bass hit making it difficult to see I had to adjust the power down and the EQ settings.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post
    Get a 12 inch sub, put it in a stealth box, and toss it in the open area in the back drivers side corner of the hatch. I had 1 12 inch MTX running on a true 1000w amp in one of my old camaro's and it hit VERY hard. The hatch and the space in the back of the car makes it seem a lot more powerful than it actually is. I fooled people on a regular basis with that setup...nobody could ever believe I had just 1 sub back there.
    LOL!!! I don't want anything super loud or "thumpy." Just looking to pick up the low freq portion of the sound. Also, I don't want to have to run any wiring more serious than the stock wiring. Nor do I want to pull tons of amps and have my headlights going dim and all that.

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Systems today are insane with their high wattage ratings for both subs and amplifiers. In the setup above, I ran (2) 12" MTX subs powered by (2) separate amplifiers running in mono - each bridged to only produce 250W each max power to each sub. That system was one of the hardest hitting systems I've ever felt. Now they have 1000W+ amps. It boggles my mind. Turned up, my system would actually rattle your head when the bass hit making it difficult to see I had to adjust the power down and the EQ settings.
    Yeah, like when people drive down the block and rattle the windows and walls of the houses as they drive by.

  8. #28
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    You will def need to add an aftermarket amp and power wires to the amp. Then you will need to tap into 1 of your rear speakers for a signal input to the amp. A decent mono 300 watt (or 150watt rms) amp will be just fine and wont dim your headlights, nor rattle your head IF adjusted properly. That's what the "gain" control is for on the amp. You turn up the music to your "normal" listening level, and adjust the amp to suit your needs. I have done this set up with a single 10" sub in a box on countless cars and they sound like you have spent $1000's and in reality, it is only $400 or less.

  9. #29
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention also, when I do this I turn the bass down to kill the distortion in the factory speakers. Before you turn on the sub, turn the bass down completely, crank up the music and slowly add bass until you hear distortion. Then back off the bass. When you fire up the sub, the bass will sound amazing and you will save your factory speakers from blowing.

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