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Stock Replacement Speakers

This is a discussion on Stock Replacement Speakers within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; Hey all, I'm going to warn you from the get-go...I'm not electrically inclined, more mechanical, so bear with me and ...

  1. #1
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    Stock Replacement Speakers

    Hey all,

    I'm going to warn you from the get-go...I'm not electrically inclined, more mechanical, so bear with me and my stupid questions.

    I'm currently installing an aftermarket HU into my Trans Am. I was originally going to just hook it up to the stock harness and go from there. I then thought about it for awhile and decided to replace all of the speakers. I did some reading this weekend and found a lot of F-Body people just replace the door and sail speakers and add a sub or two to the rear, and completely ignore the speakers that come stock in the hatch area. I then also read that when replacing the speakers rewiring should be done. This is the point where I felt overwhelmed. I can rewire fine, but I have a feeling that a certain gauge wire needs to be used, etc.

    Here come the questions:

    - What are some good speakers I can buy that will fit in the stock locations without much (if any) modification. I want the interior to look stock-ish, so I don't need any abnormal sized speakers in there.
    - For the sub, I want to use that 10" sub enclosure that fits in the hole in the rear compartment (opposite the spare tire). What would be a good sub to go there?
    - To support the new system, what Amp should I use? Also, can the sub be mounted to the body above the driver side rear tire? I want hide it, but I don't want to catch static from the body or anything.

    Like I said, I'm completely oblivious to all of this, so whatever suggestions you guys can throw at me, please do.

    Thanks.
    2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 M6: 427ci LS3, Built T56, Moser 9" w/ 4.11 Gearing, Full Suspension, and 6-point Cage.
    2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP: Twincharged w/ a T67 Turbocharger
    2007 Chevrolet 3500 Dually Duramax: 3" Downpipe, Dual 4" Exhaust, EFILive Tuning

  2. #2
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    first questions first. Does the head unit support aftermarket remote wiring. In other words is there a headphone looking jack on the back of the head unit that allows you to plug in a remote control? If yes then there is a part you will certainly want. i don't have the number off the top of my head but it will retain use of the factory steering wheel controls.

    Secondly. does the head unit have 3 pairs of RCA outputs? or does it only have RCA outputs for the sub and leave you with the regular speaker outputs for the rest of the car? if that's the case you would need an amp that can take speaker level input or you would need a new head unit. i'm sure the latter isn't really on the menu

    For wiring the head unit to the car.... I like to use the heat shrink butt splices you can find at home depot. just use a heat gun or cigarette lighter to melt the solder and shrink the tubing. viola. clean smooth install.

    link to what i'm talking about:
    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

    I recommend installing the head unit as it instructs you to. If you end up having to use speaker level inputs for the amp you can just use the wires that are already in the trunk. if you don't... no big loss it was just a couple extra butt splices anyway.

    From there..... hmmm... if you end up rewiring everything there is a place in Cali that sells wires at VERY cheap prices

    uneek supply is their name I wired my whole car for about 100 beans. your requirements may vary. http://www.uneeksupply.com/servlet/StoreFront

    subthump.com is the place for the sub enclosure and if you are going the way of separate amps they started making the amp racks for our cars again. mounting that rack may be the biggest PITA of the whole install but it's worth it and i'd be glad to offer advice if you go that route. Also... with the rack in place it becomes impossible for the sub enclosure to move from it's location. as a result. i didn't bother bolting it down.... in fact my entire install required only 2 holes be drilled in my car. underhood where I put the circuit breaker.

    For speakers and amps there are far too many choices out there i am very happy with how mine turned out. i've done more tuning and swapped my old sub for the 2ohm DVC version wired to 4ohms. all said and done it bumps harder and rocks louder than ever.

    let's figure out where you are going with wiring and amps and we can figure out what kind of speakers can be paired with your setup...

    example:

    my speakers sound great but NEED amps. a lighter more efficient speaker could also sound very good and could get by on head unit power.

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    I'm not worried about the remote control/steering wheel controls. I have an input on the HU for he controls, but I'm not going to worry about it.

    Is this what you're talking about?

  4. #4
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    yes sort of. on the right side over there you have the sub and pre out RCA's

    If the head unit itself doesn't have them on the back then those are your connections to get the audio signal out to the subs.

    If it has a hideaway box then it must be a pretty nice head unit. I wasn't concerned with video or nav as i wasn't too keen on putting an antenna anywhere on my car but i'm sure it will have fantastic sound quality as kenwood makes some nice products.

    since you have the RCA outputs you can easily connect an aftermarket amplifier or two with this system. Since the car will have between 6 and 8 speakers i highly suggest a discrete amp just for the main channels and one for the sub. there are some nice 5 and 6 channel amps that are designed to power both the main speakers and the subs but since you are looking to run a 10" sub in the drivers side cubby by the wheel I suggest getting the nicest mono amp you can afford and pairing it with the biggest baddest 10" sub you can squeeze into that tiny space. When I got to spazpalooza my sub sounded ok then blew.... I had gone with the 2ohm wiring wanting to get the bragging rights of having 1000watts RMS in that sub. I replaced that sub with the same model but a different ohm rating and now run a more correct 500 watts RMS through an 800watt rated sub. I actually feel that now it hits harder and tighter since i'm no longer overdriving the speaker and from 30feet away from the car it can actually produce a nice powerful bass hit.

    I'm leaving out brands at the moment since i'm not sure the budget or the ultimate goals you have for the sound.

    What I WILL recommend is that you go with the 8 speaker setup. 4 sets of components in the hatch and doors. you will get better imaging IMO as the rear fill will be at a better height from bouncing off the hatch and will be far enough away from your head to not overpower the front channel. it's also nicer if you open the hatch and can hear the music loud and clear.... also if you have someone sitting in the rear you won't blow their eardrums out. plus components sound better than coaxials.... so again IMO there's no comparison.

  5. #5
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R View Post
    yes sort of. on the right side over there you have the sub and pre out RCA's

    If the head unit itself doesn't have them on the back then those are your connections to get the audio signal out to the subs.

    If it has a hideaway box then it must be a pretty nice head unit. I wasn't concerned with video or nav as i wasn't too keen on putting an antenna anywhere on my car but i'm sure it will have fantastic sound quality as kenwood makes some nice products.
    Yeah, it's a hideaway.

    http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_613K...ures_and_specs

    Quote Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R View Post
    since you have the RCA outputs you can easily connect an aftermarket amplifier or two with this system. Since the car will have between 6 and 8 speakers i highly suggest a discrete amp just for the main channels and one for the sub. there are some nice 5 and 6 channel amps that are designed to power both the main speakers and the subs but since you are looking to run a 10" sub in the drivers side cubby by the wheel I suggest getting the nicest mono amp you can afford and pairing it with the biggest baddest 10" sub you can squeeze into that tiny space. When I got to spazpalooza my sub sounded ok then blew.... I had gone with the 2ohm wiring wanting to get the bragging rights of having 1000watts RMS in that sub. I replaced that sub with the same model but a different ohm rating and now run a more correct 500 watts RMS through an 800watt rated sub. I actually feel that now it hits harder and tighter since i'm no longer overdriving the speaker and from 30feet away from the car it can actually produce a nice powerful bass hit.

    I'm leaving out brands at the moment since i'm not sure the budget or the ultimate goals you have for the sound.

    What I WILL recommend is that you go with the 8 speaker setup. 4 sets of components in the hatch and doors. you will get better imaging IMO as the rear fill will be at a better height from bouncing off the hatch and will be far enough away from your head to not overpower the front channel. it's also nicer if you open the hatch and can hear the music loud and clear.... also if you have someone sitting in the rear you won't blow their eardrums out. plus components sound better than coaxials.... so again IMO there's no comparison.
    I understand none of what you said here...it's literally like reading another language. I think I'm going to go to my local car audio shop and have them suggest some parts and then I'll install them (maybe).

  6. #6
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    That's one way of going about it lol. If you want some help when I have time to actually sit and talk you can feel free to call me. I spent over a year learning about these things and am very happy with the results i have so far achieved.

    Part of me would love to do some sound insulation in the car the other part says "eeewww heavy=slow"

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