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Should I use a crossover for my front door speakers?

This is a discussion on Should I use a crossover for my front door speakers? within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; I just bought a set of Polk db 6501 component speakers for the front doors of my Formula. Should I ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    Should I use a crossover for my front door speakers?

    I just bought a set of Polk db 6501 component speakers for the front doors of my Formula. Should I use a crossover or just use the wires from the factory? If I should use a crossover, how should they be wired?
    Thanks in advance for your help!!!!

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    You can get the wiring diagram online from Polk. I think you have to use a crossover for the tweeter to work properly.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    A cross-over is a separate unit that controls the filter which you would need to buy to be able to filter any unwarranted low frequency you don't want going to your mid-range speaker.

    Unless the speakers came with their own cross-over?

    If this is your concern and they didn't, you could just use bass blockers in-line with the speakers. That would be an inexpensive route which would serve a similar purpose.
    It's on jackstands.

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    There is a factory built in crossover. Make sure you remove it. It would interfere with the Polk cross over you should be using. If you trace the wires back about a foot, you will see a bulge wrapped in foam. That is the factory cross over. I tore everything out of my car and rewired everything. Stereo pounds now. You can see what I did in my signature below.
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    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    Good info! Thanks!
    So I do not need the wires going to the tweeter in the door, I just use the other 2 wires for the crossover that came with the speakers after I cut out the factory crossovers...

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    If you are still using the factory head unit, then you will want to cut out the factory xover, then wire in the xover that came with your tweeters and not share power between the tweeter and the door speaker. If you are using an aftermarket deck, how you wire it depends on how many channels you are using. I have my xovers and tweets fed from the door speaker's power because I only have a 4 channel deck, and since it pushes 60 watts per channel, I am not using an amp. You will also need to match the ohm resistance of the speakers and the deck. I am not sure of the ohm resistance of the factory deck, but I am pretty sure it does not match the speakers you got. I ripped everything out and started from scratch, so I had no worries.

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    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    Yea... I replaced my head unit, with an aftermarket Kenwood, when the factory one bit the big one! That is why I am replacing the speakers... The new head unit made the music sound better so I thought new speakers will make it sound even better! One thing leads to another. You know how that goes!

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Yes I do. When you get to the sub, don't forget a cap. Makes all the diff in the world. Saves your alternator.

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    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    What is a cap and how does it work?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    He is speaking of a capacitor, which stores energy, to use during peak bass hits from your subs so they do not draw additional current from your battery.

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    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    Gotcha! I was not going to install a sub, but after I replace the speakers it seems like I will probably go ahead and install a sub! What do you recommend for a sub in the rear hatch area? Is there a kit out there for our cars?

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Here is an example like what I use. I don't have the MTX brand, and I think I got mine for around $50 used. You can go crazy to your heart's desire, but for a recreational stereo, meaning not competition, a maxed out 8 in our cars will pound. This box is designed to fit on the shelf in the ttop storage area on the driver's side of the car. If you have a factory disc changer, it will fill that space. ThunderForm Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Custom Subwoofer Box w Free 10" MTX Sub | eBay

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    He is speaking of a capacitor, which stores energy, to use during peak bass hits from your subs so they do not draw additional current from your battery.
    A cap will save your alternator, and will not dim your lights. It helps supply more power to your amp. I think I got mine for around 50 new.

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    Junior Member gbenz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    If you are still using the factory head unit, then you will want to cut out the factory xover, then wire in the xover that came with your tweeters and not share power between the tweeter and the door speaker. If you are using an aftermarket deck, how you wire it depends on how many channels you are using. I have my xovers and tweets fed from the door speaker's power because I only have a 4 channel deck, and since it pushes 60 watts per channel, I am not using an amp. You will also need to match the ohm resistance of the speakers and the deck. I am not sure of the ohm resistance of the factory deck, but I am pretty sure it does not match the speakers you got. I ripped everything out and started from scratch, so I had no worries.
    Is it true, from the factory, the door speaker is wired from the amp and the tweeter is wired from head unit?

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    i dont know, never traced it back.

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