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security light on all the time

This is a discussion on security light on all the time within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; Security light is on all of the time on my 01 camaro SS. Everything works fine, just the light on. ...

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    security light on all the time

    Security light is on all of the time on my 01 camaro SS. Everything works fine, just the light on. I noticed that opening the driver door with the key with the alarm set does not set off the alarm like the passenger door. Any ideas on this?

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    Could be lots of things, but since it isn't affecting your ability to start your car I wonder if it is simply a defective sensor. Has VATS been bypassed? Maybe take it to a GM shop and allow them to scan the BCM codes. Unfortunately, a regular handheld scanner cannot read body codes and you have to have this done by someone with a Tech II.

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    vats and only a matter of time before it'll stop the car from starting. I would do the bypass and be done with it.

    How to Bypass your VATS
    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28 View Post
    Don't worry about understanding women. Women understand women, and they hate each other

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    I may just do the bypass but I have to wonder why only the passenger door doesn't set off the alarm (I noticed that opening the driver door with the key with the alarm set does not set off the alarm like the passenger door)?

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    Still doing research. Does anyone know where the door lock sensor/switch is located. This feeds the BCM and may be the problem since the driver side door is the only thing that isn't responding when you open the door with the key after the alarm has been set.

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    I can take a look in my service manual this evening and post up pics. Hit this thread with a reminder at some point tonight if you don't see anything.

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    pajeff02
    anything in the service manual?

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    The door switch also acts as the sensor and is wired to the BCM. Driver side door lock switch has three wires: Black is ground, Orange/Black is the unlock signal, and Red/Black is the lock signal. Passenger side is coded the same as the driver side. When you lock the doors the Red/Black wires go to ground. When you unlock the doors the Orange/Black wires go to ground. In the opposite position, ie. Red/Black wire unlocked should show as an open circuit with no continuity to ground and vice versa.

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    Thanks for the info. I also found some other info showing a gry/blk wire going from the LH side door lock switch to the BCM D11. It labeled driver door open input. This was on Autozones site under repair guides. Do you think this switch is the same as the the main door lock switch that you referred to ?

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    The electric lock actuator (power door lock motor) on the driver side has a Gray wire (Lock signal) and a Tan wire (Unlock signal). Passenger side is Gray (Unlock signal) and Gray/Black (Lock signal). It appears that these wires provide a 12 volt signal to the motor, with the opposite wire in the pair providing the ground circuit. So, on the driver door when you tap the unlock button the Tan wire gets a 12 volt feed and the Gray wire is ground. Both wires then switch for a lock signal with Gray getting 12 volts and Tan going to ground. The wires all run directly to the BCM. The "D" wire you referred to is labeled in the manual as "Driver Door Lock Switch Unlock Signal" which runs from the switch panel, not the motor.

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    Since the driver door power lock works I now suspect the BCM since the driver door opening does not set off the alarm. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks for all of the info

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    That happened to me once miles from home. I replaced the fuse for the gauges and it's never happened again. Strange thing since the fuse hadn't blown, but it worked for me.

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    There is a known issue with the solder joints in the BCM. It is a fairly simple fix if you want to look into it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    There is a known issue with the solder joints in the BCM. It is a fairly simple fix if you want to look into it.
    Oh god.....

    Not the BCM removal!!!???

    Just done that so feel free to ask anything which may help!

    Trev

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    Trev, you are going to make me go pull mine out of the car just to see how bad it is to do aren't you?

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    Trev

    I see the BCM behind the glove box. Any tips on the BCM removal. Looks like I need to remove the passenger kick panel and the cover panel under the glove box. Then pop the BCM out and unplug the connectors. Then I can open the BCM, take out the board and reflow joints. Anything else?

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    Steve....

    The glove box is held on with just 3 small hex head threads so take it right off.

    It will need the two tabs, one on either side eased in and forward( towards seat)
    to flop It right down. Once gone you will see the BCM more easily and the lower panel
    beneath the glove box can just be eased down rather than removed. It is held in place
    by a plastic barbed push pin either side.

    The pass side kick panel is just held there by three or four self tapping screws and are pretty
    easy to remove apart from the one obscured by the seat which I got with a tiddly ratchet and
    screwdriver bit.

    Now the fun... once you have removed the three plugs... the longer blue one undoes pretty easily
    and the other two are more of a faff with barbed clip things but you'll figure them out.

    Now the fun part! I found that the clip which is most visible ( refer to the pic in my thread here),
    Help!: Electrical gremlins!? .

    The pass kick panel missing makes feeling for the clip on the other side easier.

    I found that peeling open the one looking at you on the left can be held in the open position with a popsicle
    stick, but must be flat and "only just" holding it open and then feel for the other one and after a while you
    will find the best way to lay in the car to access it. I was feet out with my head on the center console and
    reaching around and up. You just have to do it to relate to what I am describing.

    Because the left is being held open you can heave at the right one and tug REALLY hard to get it to start to move.
    They really never intended these to come out. You will have a lot of tugging, heaving, and swearing but it will
    finally start to move and once you have it out it is plain sailing.... but not until then!!!!!!!!

    Once you have done the solder trick you will be mad if you push it back in place and click it back in as you
    will have that torment again in the future!

    You can put the wiring clips back on and then just ease the lower panel back up into place whilst positioning
    the BCM to lay flat and remain contained in place. Works just fine this method and it is more than secure enough!

    Then, assuming the solder mod has worked.... crack open a beer.......

    Trev

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Trev, you are going to make me go pull mine out of the car just to see how bad it is to do aren't you?

    Why should we have all the fun!!?? By all means have a shot at ripping it out!!!!!!!

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    Well I removed the bcm and inspected. Did see any visible cracks but i reflowed relay joints and contector joints. Hooked it back up and still had the same problem. Security light on but the only thing obviosly wrong is that the driver side door alarm isn't working. I refuse to bring it to the dealer to get the bcm scanned. Any other thoughts?

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    Did you unhook the battery for a while after making the repairs?

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