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Rear Fill Selection

This is a discussion on Rear Fill Selection within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; As I detailed a while ago I'm looking to build a very good pioneer system as I've always been a ...

  1. #1
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    Rear Fill Selection

    As I detailed a while ago I'm looking to build a very good pioneer system as I've always been a fan of their HU's and speakers. With their modern Premier and PRS level equipment they have seated themselves in the upper echelons of mobile SQ.... perhaps their subs might not be up to snuff but the rest is TOP notch....

    ANYWAY!

    I had to disconnect the rear fill in my car after installing my PRS HU due to too much static. I settled on Kicker CVT subs for the sail panels and I KNOW i'm getting the TS-C720PRS speakers up front. That leaves the rear fill which I miss more and more each day. I wanted the TS-C520PRS but am not sure if 5.25 inch speakers will fit in the hatch. looks like the ones that are there now are 4.5?? someone can correct me if i'm wrong.

    What i'd like to know is if anyone has experience with putting 5.25 speakers back there. I've heard stories of people shoehorning 6x9's but would like to retain the factory grilles if at all possible, i'm going for as much stealth as I can to keep it clean looking. I'm not so big on flash, I put function first.

    Any ideas?

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    If you talk to the real hard core SQ guys, they'll tell you you only need speakers in the doors. But, speakers that small(5.25") aren't going to sound very good at high levels. What I want to do is figure out some way to put some 6.5" in the middle of the rear seat one above the other. What you might think about trying is cutting out behind the speaker grill so you can still mount the grill and try mounting some 6.5" to the back of the plastics to keep the stock look you want. That was something else I was going to try. Use some wood rings or something. The 6 x 9's would probably work better 'cause they're more narrow. Like I said mounting them to the underside instead of the traditional way on top. Just a thought.
    Last edited by PewterTransAm; 08-27-2009 at 05:43 PM.

  3. #3
    Junior Member ORION WS6's Avatar
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    orion setup

    take a look at this. I am very pleased with my front stage sound. Of course the bass is way more than I need but it is awesome to show off to the ricers/kids.http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewga...=2&carid=29548

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    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    wow! very nice setup you have there orion. what kind of deadener is that on your mids in the back? I could use something like that on mine. The Kickers are so strong they slightly loosen the screws holding them down and rattle a bit. I didn't have anything on hand to deaden the panel with its just one of many future projects.

    Your bass is deff overkill for me. I think 1 10" will be more than enough since i'm looking for SQ in everyday driving with a bit of punch when I want to crank it. I'm seriously considering bi amping my system one amp for highs one amp for mids and one amp for the sub. I Just wouldn't know what to do about those kickers. I really like the idea of having a tiny sub that can handle higher frequencies to take the load off the mids. I think the only way I'd be able to do that is by splitting the signal from my sub output and leave the low pass set pretty high on the head but use the amp to cut that a bit lower for the main sub. That will be something I'd need to read some scholarly articles on before I make up my mind.... i think for now i'll just get my front speakers. lol

    but anyone think the 5.25's will fit?

  5. #5
    Junior Member ORION WS6's Avatar
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    I used xtc 6 1/2" shallow baffles, and I used stainless steel screws and clips to hold them in. I used the xtc's on all four 6 3/4" drivers. All I did was have no bass coming from the rear seperates, all my mid bass comes from the front doors. I can turn down the bass knob and crank all 4 of 6 3/4" and 6 tweeters and I blow peoples minds on how loud and clear everything sounds, then i hit the bass knob and they start to gasp of air. Its pretty funny. I grew up in Brooklyn, I went to PS 164. If you need any other advice let me know. The 5.25 should fit. just make an adapter donut to take up the diameter of the factory hole. Thanks for the compliment on my system. Almost done with it.

  6. #6
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    So I was looking at the specs on the speakers I want and the rears look like they would be drop ins despite being called 5.25 inch. the cutout dimensions are like 4 and ?/16ths for those... i guess they count the circumference of the surround as part of the diameter? how else can they call them 5.25's? same with the front 6.5's they call them 6 3/4 yet the cutout size is something like just a hair under 6 inches!?!?! It's obviously not a linear measurement but the good news is that i can go with the 5.25's on the stock hatch and the 6.75's on the doors and keep my kickers in the sails all on stock amping... OORRR i could go 6.75's in the sails and ditch the kickers and get a real sub.... decisions decisions decisions.... ugh...

  7. #7
    Junior Member ORION WS6's Avatar
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    sometimes deciding which speakers to use can drive you nuts. I went with the products that I have heard and used in the past. Just plan which way you want to go and stick with it.

  8. #8
    Member wenn_du_weinst's Avatar
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    the mounting diameter and outer diameter are 2 different things the mounting diameter is the size of the hole it goes in outer diameter is the whole frame and everything

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