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Necessary 2 1/16" gauges to have in car?

This is a discussion on Necessary 2 1/16" gauges to have in car? within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; So i decided to go with the autometer nexus series gauges for my A-pillar and upper dash gauges...NOW the hard ...

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Necessary 2 1/16" gauges to have in car?

    So i decided to go with the autometer nexus series gauges for my A-pillar and upper dash gauges...NOW the hard part deciding which ones i will NEED for the car and which ones can wait.

    I decided to go with:

    A-Pillar

    Slot 1: Vacuum / Boost PN 6459

    Slot 2: Exhaust Gas Temperature PN 6445

    Slot 3: Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio PRO PN 6478

    For the dash gauges (meaning the 2 gauge pod made by 6LE for the top of the dash above the vents) i wasnt sure what i NEEDED in there. I know the gauge cluster already has MPH, RPM, Volts, Oil Pressure, Fuel & Temp...

    And the rest of the Nexus gauges have:

    Fuel Pressure PN 6463

    Nitrous Pressure PN 6474

    Oil Temperature PN 6465

    Transmission Temperature PN 6457

    Voltmeter PN 6491

    I will eventually be using Nitrous but not anytime soon and not sure if it worth buying the gauge now for something i might not get for like 3-4 years when my build is done. Other then that i have 2 holes to fill (that's what she said lol) and am not sure what i would NEED to have in there.

    Opinions welcome!!!


    Thanks a bunch!

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    Some additional details about your setup would help others chime in, I'm sure...I'm going off your tagline that mentions a 427LSX setup with a ProCharger.

    I would recommend fuel pressure since you have the room for additional gauges. Never hurts to monitor that on a high horsepower build, although the Wideband A/F has you covered there as well.

    I'm glad I have Trans Temp...I've noticed my trans temps soar in the staging lanes or heavy traffic. This is probably due to the long tubes running right past the transmission and heating things up when there's no air flow. That's kept me from hot-lapping the car at times and potentially saved the transmission.

    If you're going to run nitrous, I'm sure bottle pressure would be good to have, but if it's not in your immediate plans it doesn't really make sense now. You never know what the future might bring.

    Just my thoughts. That setup should be quite a handful, I hope you enjoy it!
    Nick

    2002 Trans Am WS6 - 520rwhp
    D1SC @ 10lbs | FLT Level V - SS3600 - ARH 1 3/4" LTs w/ Catted Y-pipe - Corsa - Koni 4/3's - UMI Adj. LCAs and Brackets - UMI 3 Pt. SFC's - UMI PHB - UMI STB - TTM's (17X9, 17X10.5) - M/T ET Streets

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP View Post
    Some additional details about your setup would help others chime in, I'm sure...I'm going off your tagline that mentions a 427LSX setup with a ProCharger.

    I would recommend fuel pressure since you have the room for additional gauges. Never hurts to monitor that on a high horsepower build, although the Wideband A/F has you covered there as well.

    I'm glad I have Trans Temp...I've noticed my trans temps soar in the staging lanes or heavy traffic. This is probably due to the long tubes running right past the transmission and heating things up when there's no air flow. That's kept me from hot-lapping the car at times and potentially saved the transmission.

    If you're going to run nitrous, I'm sure bottle pressure would be good to have, but if it's not in your immediate plans it doesn't really make sense now. You never know what the future might bring.

    Just my thoughts. That setup should be quite a handful, I hope you enjoy it!
    Your probably right... The more info the better!

    For the gauges i'm looking for i'll be having an LSX 427 under the hood with a F1A procharger and return style fuel system. Transmission with be viper upgraded and all other bolt-ons will be going with the engine also.

    See Me In My GTP, fuel and tranny temp were the ones i had in mind for the last 2 gauge spots... I figures since nitrous wouldn't be for long down the road it would be stupid to have now.

    Also, i see you have 500+RWHP and MT ET Streets.. Are those the Street I or II and how do they hook up from a dig, roll etc... Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    Your probably right... The more info the better!

    For the gauges i'm looking for i'll be having an LSX 427 under the hood with a F1A procharger and return style fuel system. Transmission with be viper upgraded and all other bolt-ons will be going with the engine also.

    See Me In My GTP, fuel and tranny temp were the ones i had in mind for the last 2 gauge spots... I figures since nitrous wouldn't be for long down the road it would be stupid to have now.

    Also, i see you have 500+RWHP and MT ET Streets.. Are those the Street I or II and how do they hook up from a dig, roll etc... Thanks!

    They are the ET Street Radial I's. I absolutely love them. The blower just went on last summer and I had some 315 Nitto 555's on the car that were not only traction limited but dangerous. Anything over 2-3psi of boost and it was like an ice skating rink. I hadn't planned on keeping them, but I didn't think they would be THAT bad either. Even drove in a light rain (which I never do intentionally) and even with the minimal tread they were much better than the Nittos.

    The Mickey's went on almost immediately so I could enjoy the power and it was a night and day difference. The car will still break them loose, but it behaved more like a stock car traction wise. It's an A4, and a 1st gear downshift at ~25mph will break them loose, but they heat up and hook pretty quick on the street. From a launch there's minimal wheelspin with judicious use of the throttle, but you can cook 'em if you go full throttle. Second gear downshift at about 65mph rips hard, minimal spin.

    I never imagined they'd make up for that much power and I'm only running 275's right now because I wasn't sure how they would sit and didn't want rubbing. I have an SS3600 stall and FLT transmission going in next month, so I expect traction to get a little more difficult to come by, and I think 315s will take care of that.

    Needless to say you'll be making quite a bit more power than I am, but I think some 315s will do the job for you. You could always run more sidewall too...I'm sure that would help increase your contact patch big time if it's needed. I'm running 275-40R17s, so that should be taken into consideration.

    Probably more than you wanted to know, but hopefully that gives you some idea. Worth every penny, IMO.

  5. #5
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP View Post
    They are the ET Street Radial I's. I absolutely love them. The blower just went on last summer and I had some 315 Nitto 555's on the car that were not only traction limited but dangerous. Anything over 2-3psi of boost and it was like an ice skating rink. I hadn't planned on keeping them, but I didn't think they would be THAT bad either. Even drove in a light rain (which I never do intentionally) and even with the minimal tread they were much better than the Nittos.

    The Mickey's went on almost immediately so I could enjoy the power and it was a night and day difference. The car will still break them loose, but it behaved more like a stock car traction wise. It's an A4, and a 1st gear downshift at ~25mph will break them loose, but they heat up and hook pretty quick on the street. From a launch there's minimal wheelspin with judicious use of the throttle, but you can cook 'em if you go full throttle. Second gear downshift at about 65mph rips hard, minimal spin.

    I never imagined they'd make up for that much power and I'm only running 275's right now because I wasn't sure how they would sit and didn't want rubbing. I have an SS3600 stall and FLT transmission going in next month, so I expect traction to get a little more difficult to come by, and I think 315s will take care of that.

    Needless to say you'll be making quite a bit more power than I am, but I think some 315s will do the job for you. You could always run more sidewall too...I'm sure that would help increase your contact patch big time if it's needed. I'm running 275-40R17s, so that should be taken into consideration.

    Probably more than you wanted to know, but hopefully that gives you some idea. Worth every penny, IMO.
    What you said was EXACTLY what i was looking for in an answer and being that i have the Nitto 555r on now (which i was replacing anyway) nice to see how much you enjoy the ET I....I've heard nothing but good things about MT and there ET series... I have the rim width and space in the rear for the 315s as that's what i have now for the Nittos 315/35/17R... MT's i was going to go with the same spec but would need to go with the ET II because they dont make 315 in ET I that i noticed.

    It is nice to see that the tires with the power your making and the blower help to tame it as best it can... Im sure the 315s will offer a bit more traction and will help with the power im going to add but these tires are just for the street, i have another slick for the track!

    Mine in an M6 that im going to be running through a 9bolt and have most of the suspension upgrades. I think i just need to find the dead center on the car so it will hook better. Nothing that a pinion angle finder can't help with and some LCAs relocators!

    Thanks a bunch for the XP on the ETs, really helped a lot with easing my mind on getting them cuz after all they are like $4xx.xx for 2 of em

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Now that i think of it with my 411RWHP and 403 RWTQ i can easily roast those nittos and skate all over the road as if the tires were bald and i was running them at 22PSI and could never get them to hook up properly... Sometimes they were just plain scary when broken loose...

    What PSI do you run the MTs at? And if your going to drag on them you drop the PSI and or long/short burnouts?

    Thanks again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    Now that i think of it with my 411RWHP and 403 RWTQ i can easily roast those nittos and skate all over the road as if the tires were bald and i was running them at 22PSI and could never get them to hook up properly... Sometimes they were just plain scary when broken loose...

    What PSI do you run the MTs at? And if your going to drag on them you drop the PSI and or long/short burnouts?

    Thanks again!
    The Mickey's aren't cheap, that's for sure, and you'll probably only get about 5,000 miles out of them. I only drive the car about 2,500 miles a summer, so that means two years or so of use per pair, which I can deal with. That's the trade-off for such a sticky/soft compound compared to other street tires. I look at it this way: I spent a good amount of money to enjoy a high performance car, and if I don't make that investment into good tires, I spent $XX,XXX on a fancy burnout machine.

    I've had the car in storage so I don't recall exactly, but I run 'em at the regular, recommended PSI on the street - nothing fancy. At the track, I drop the PSI about 5lbs and adjust from there, but that adjustment would be even more significant with a taller tire/more sidewall I would think. At the track I do a moderate burnout, definitely smoke them up but just a few seconds to get the compound heated and they're good to go for me.

    I had 315/35/17R Nittos as well, but I always heard that they sat narrower than other brands so I figured the 275s M/Ts would be enough of an improvement without worrying about rubbing. Now that they're on though, I feel good that a 315/35 will work fine. Like you said, only the II's come in that size, so I may do those or try the Nitto NT05R which should be a more fair comparison to the ET Streets.

    I noticed a nice upgrade when I did the LCA's and relocation brackets as well, for what it's worth. Next season the 12 bolt will go in (I'm praying the 10 bolt will last the boost and stall one more year) and I'll get an upgraded torque arm as well. Car is straight as an arrow though, breaks loose but doesn't step out unless the pavement is really uneven.

    I'm glad some of that information was helpful!

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    The only vehicle I know that needs a exhaust temp is a diesel powered one. So I wouldn't waste my time with that one. Also, wouldn't bother with the voltmeter either, you have one that's accurate enough. I'd recommend an ammeter instead.

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP View Post
    The Mickey's aren't cheap, that's for sure, and you'll probably only get about 5,000 miles out of them. I only drive the car about 2,500 miles a summer, so that means two years or so of use per pair, which I can deal with. That's the trade-off for such a sticky/soft compound compared to other street tires. I look at it this way: I spent a good amount of money to enjoy a high performance car, and if I don't make that investment into good tires, I spent $XX,XXX on a fancy burnout machine.

    I've had the car in storage so I don't recall exactly, but I run 'em at the regular, recommended PSI on the street - nothing fancy. At the track, I drop the PSI about 5lbs and adjust from there, but that adjustment would be even more significant with a taller tire/more sidewall I would think. At the track I do a moderate burnout, definitely smoke them up but just a few seconds to get the compound heated and they're good to go for me.

    I had 315/35/17R Nittos as well, but I always heard that they sat narrower than other brands so I figured the 275s M/Ts would be enough of an improvement without worrying about rubbing. Now that they're on though, I feel good that a 315/35 will work fine. Like you said, only the II's come in that size, so I may do those or try the Nitto NT05R which should be a more fair comparison to the ET Streets.

    I noticed a nice upgrade when I did the LCA's and relocation brackets as well, for what it's worth. Next season the 12 bolt will go in (I'm praying the 10 bolt will last the boost and stall one more year) and I'll get an upgraded torque arm as well. Car is straight as an arrow though, breaks loose but doesn't step out unless the pavement is really uneven.

    I'm glad some of that information was helpful!
    Fancy burnout machine madd funny...

    Here is a performance comparison done by Super Chevy with the MT ET II Vs. the Nitto NT05

    http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...est/index.html

    Yes, the nitto held a slight edge in 60ft and 1/4 mile but look at the burnout required for the nitto and the goddamn PSI you would need to run the tire at compared to the PSI used for the MTs. I'm sure ill be impressed with the ET II 315s which i am looking forward too... I only put like 5000miles on the car in like 5 years IF that so im sure those tires will see their moneys worth lol

    I figured i would do the LCA relocation when i get the new rear as it matters what rear you run to what parts you need so i might as well wait... I have an Adj TQ Arm by BMR which i think is a good as they come but i'll sniff around and see maybe if there is better... I heard relocating it off the Tranny helps a bit also and setting the pinion angle at -2 is "supposed" to be optimal for dead centering the car...


    I think all around, i would have to say the MTs are better but that's just my opinion...

    And the info you gave me was very helpful thank you very much!!!!

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    The only vehicle I know that needs a exhaust temp is a diesel powered one. So I wouldn't waste my time with that one. Also, wouldn't bother with the voltmeter either, you have one that's accurate enough. I'd recommend an ammeter instead.
    I thought, that having an EGT monitor was the best to detect engine issues as the exhaust heats up first before setting off any bells and whistles in the car or something worse happening???

    I might have heard wrong but that was my understanding that's why i figured it was essential.

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    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Speaking of gauges and monitoring.... WHEN THE HELL ARE THEY MAKING THE DIABLO TRINITY AVAILABLE FOR OUR CARS!!!!! I think it would look so bad ass mounted where the TCS switch is ANNNNND is has some crazy features in it (virtual drag strip, code ID, ECU mods etc.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP View Post
    Some additional details about your setup would help others chime in, I'm sure...I'm going off your tagline that mentions a 427LSX setup with a ProCharger.

    I would recommend fuel pressure since you have the room for additional gauges. Never hurts to monitor that on a high horsepower build, although the Wideband A/F has you covered there as well.

    I'm glad I have Trans Temp...I've noticed my trans temps soar in the staging lanes or heavy traffic. This is probably due to the long tubes running right past the transmission and heating things up when there's no air flow. That's kept me from hot-lapping the car at times and potentially saved the transmission.

    If you're going to run nitrous, I'm sure bottle pressure would be good to have, but if it's not in your immediate plans it doesn't really make sense now. You never know what the future might bring.

    Just my thoughts. That setup should be quite a handful, I hope you enjoy it!
    I have purchased 5 Autometer nexus gauges with the 6400 controller and they look beautiful (although i still need to hook em up lol) but i was wondering....

    I got these gauges and had a question on one:

    Slot 1: Vacuum / Boost PN 6459

    Slot 2: Exhaust Gas Temperature PN 6445

    Slot 3: Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio PRO PN 6478

    Slot 4: Fuel Pressure PN 6463

    Slot 5: Transmission Temperature PN 6457

    Now the last slot was my question, i have an M6, i know that See Me In My GTP stated that his trans temp gauge gave him warning signs of a hot tranny when staging or sitting too stationary for too long due to LTs. I am in the process of building a F1A Procharged 427LSX and want these gauges to be useful and help me not just be there for show.... Is the trans temp useless or like stated above can he help with heating it up and not hot lapping the car?

    If it was useless, i was considering sending it back and getting the Oil Temp Gauge...


    Thanks!!!

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