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Monsoon System Help

This is a discussion on Monsoon System Help within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; I'm thinking about upgrading my system. I have an Alpine 9857 head unit that I love and want to install ...

  1. #1
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    Monsoon System Help

    I'm thinking about upgrading my system. I have an Alpine 9857 head unit that I love and want to install in my Firebird. I figure if I replace the HU, i'll replace everything else too. The set up i'm thinking about doing is Alpine Type X components (150 RMS Watts) for the front, Alpine Type R coaxial (100 RMS watts) for the back seat, and then Alpine Type S (30 RMS watts) for the hatch and pulling out the hatch tweeters, and powering the X and R's by the Alpine PDX-4.150 (150 RMS watts x4), then running the hatch speakers through the HU. Would this set up work, using the pre existing speaker wiring or would I have to run new wiring throughout the car? Also, if I decide not to replace the speakers at this time, can I hook up the HU with only a wiring harness and dash kit and use the stock speakers and amp? Finally, can I use 6.5" speakers in front and sail panels, or will i have to use 6.75"? thanks
    Last edited by LgndKller20073; 07-30-2007 at 01:25 AM.

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    Loudmouth!! seasponge's Avatar
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    Go for the whole 9 yards bro! I did. First off, yes, the door and sails are 6.5 oversized (or 6.75), the hatch are 4". The way I have my new system hooked up is as follows:

    Pioneer 7900BT h/u
    Memphis Car Audio 6.5 oversized (6.75) doors and sails
    Memphis 4" hatch
    Memphis 50x4 2ch amp

    The h/u is powering the 4" hatch speakers since the h/u puts out 25w RMS/ch, 50w max and those speakers handle 20rms, 40 max.

    The amp is running the doors and sails since they are all the same speakers, those are rated at 50w rms, 100w max.

    So, everything is perfectly matched and sounds extremely well.

    Later, I'm dropping in a Memphis 10" sub matched with a Memphis sub amp.

    I wouldn't try and use a harness with the factory wiring because that is just VERY confusing since many of the colors are the same...for instance 3 blue wires??? WTF???...2 browns?...yeah, no, I ripped all that crap out and used Monster for sound and Raptor for power. Also, if you look at the factory speaker wiring, you'll see that it is like 10 strand copper or something like that...not like Monster cable that is like 1000 strand lol...well, my point is that factory is for factory.

    Let me know what you're going to go with or if you need help figuring something out during your install.

    J.
    Camaro Z28/SS...40+ years of mustang humiliation.
    View my garage: http://www.fquick.com/Y2KBlackZ28

  3. #3
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    i think that now i'm going to go with:

    HU-Alpine ida-x001
    Front-Alpine Type X Components
    Sail Panels-Alpine Type R Coaxial
    Hatch-MB Quart Components
    Amp-PDX-4.150

    The amp should supply suffiecient power to the X's and R's, and the HU should power the 4". the only problem i see is that the HU will only supply 18 RMS, but the speakers handle 40 RMS. I dont know what to do there. Where would a good install place be? I don't know of any car audio specialty shops in Denver.

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    Loudmouth!! seasponge's Avatar
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    Well, if those 4" are 40 RMS and your H/U is only pushing 18 RMS then you will not hear them...you'll have to get a small 2ch amp to run them if you want to hear them.

    Mine are the 4" Memphis which run at 20 RMS, 40 MAX but my H/U is pushing them at 25 RMS, 50 MAX so its a perfect match.

    Your other option is to tap off from your rear outputs but then you're cutting your output to the rears and sails. Any reputable install shop can tell you the best option for that scenario.

    J

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    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    i've bought everything now. the only thing i changed from my last post, were the hatch speakers. I went with the infinity references. they handle between 2 and 35 watts RMS, so they should be perfect to be powered by the head unit. all the stuff should get in friday, so hopefully on monday i'll be taking my car somewhere to get it all installed.

  6. #6
    Junior Member HasselZ28's Avatar
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    "I'm thinking about upgrading my system. I have an Alpine 9857 head unit that I love and want to install in my Firebird. I figure if I replace the HU, i'll replace everything else too. The set up i'm thinking about doing is Alpine Type X components (150 RMS Watts) for the front, Alpine Type R coaxial (100 RMS watts) for the back seat, and then Alpine Type S (30 RMS watts) for the hatch and pulling out the hatch tweeters, and powering the X and R's by the Alpine PDX-4.150 (150 RMS watts x4), then running the hatch speakers through the HU. Would this set up work, using the pre existing speaker wiring or would I have to run new wiring throughout the car? Also, if I decide not to replace the speakers at this time, can I hook up the HU with only a wiring harness and dash kit and use the stock speakers and amp? Finally, can I use 6.5" speakers in front and sail panels, or will i have to use 6.75"? thanks"

    I have the same head unit and pondered the same question. You can just get a wiring harness and dash kit, I descided to just stick with the stock monsoon speakers and see how the held up. I purchased a T-Top box from Subthump.com and installed 2 Apline Type S 10" Sub (250rms each) and powered them with a Apline mono channel 400 watt rms amp. The sound is sick, I an very impressed with the stock monsoon, but just depending on how many people you want to hear you and how deaf you want to be you can always swap out them later

  7. #7
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    ok, for my sub, i'm going to go with probably only one of the stealth enclosures from subthump.com and i'm probably going to try the ED sub. has anyone had one of these before? was it any good? I have my old Alpine MRP-M650 that would power the sub. what's the difference between 2 and 4 ohms and how would i wire for 2 ohms? if i run the amp and sub at 2 ohms, they match perfectly at 600 watts rms.

  8. #8
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    and to answer how deaf i want to be and how many people i want to hear me.....very and everybody lol

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    your subs are going to be rated at a certain impedance. im guessing 4 ohms but still check. that impedance has to be matched to the amp. two 4 ohm subs will wire into parrallel for a total 2 ohm impedance at the amp and wiring them in series will set them at 8 ohms. Parrallel is simply wiring up both positive connections to the same positive wire on the amp, and the same for negative. But make sure the amp is stable at 2 ohms. (your amp wont run at 8 ohms because it wont be stable enough, so you have to run it in parrallel.)

    your wiring should be like this
    AMP POSITIVE------+-------+
    ...........................sub .... sub
    AMP NEGATIVE----- - ------ -

  10. #10
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    sounds complicated....i'll just stick with 4 ohms lol. I've been looking at sub boxes from subthump.com and I was wondering how I would get the stealth enclosure on the passenger side. in my firebird there is a piece of plastic on that side where the spare tire is at. if i install a sub box there, would that cause a lot of rattling from the spare tire? do you think that 1 10" type X (1000 watts RMS) paired with the PDX 1.1000(1000 watts RMS) would be plenty of bass?

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    Junior Member HasselZ28's Avatar
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    To put the stealth enclosure you will have to remove your spare tire and trim the plastic molding in order to install it. I sudggest the the rear well enclosure or the ttop box, they sound awesome. The problem about the stealth enclosure is its too small and you wont get the kind of bass you want.

  12. #12
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    I'm not really a fan of the t top box. i don't want people being able to see what in there. I'm in school now so I can't be around my car at all times and with a lot of people here, it's very likely to get stolen. I'll probably just go with the one sub in the stealth box and see how that works for now. I figure that 1000 watts should be decent enough. i don't want anything mind blowing.

  13. #13
    Junior Member HasselZ28's Avatar
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    I've got a 20% tint on the back and you can't see anything unless your really lucky, and at night you can't see shit. But I see your point I'm done with school and don't have to worry about idiots breaking into my car.

  14. #14
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    I'm terrified to install this stuff in my car with all the idiots around, but oh well. Hopefully the alarm will work lol. With the head unit, how would I go about using my steering wheel controls? The head unit is steering wheel control ready, but it has a plug in the back. Is this plug for an interface or does the stock monsoon system use a plug for the steering wheel controls? if it is for an interface, where might i go about finding one of these?

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    Loudmouth!! seasponge's Avatar
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    Here you go.

    http://www.pac-audio.com/default.asp

    Find the one you need then start searching other sites for the same model for a better price.

  16. #16
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    awesome, thanks for the link. found one for $47. this has cost me a fortune now but oh well. I can't wait to get in the last few components and have it all installed.

  17. #17
    Loudmouth!! seasponge's Avatar
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    $47???....dude, that's a VERY good price!!!....where did you find it????

  18. #18
    Member LgndKller20073's Avatar
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    i found it on ebay. the guys name is stereoware if you're looking into getting one. here's the link to mine http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=002

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