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Hookin up two 10s to factory cd player

This is a discussion on Hookin up two 10s to factory cd player within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; How do you hook up subs to a factory stereo in a 2001 ws6? Do I need a line-out converter, ...

  1. #1
    Member WS6chick's Avatar
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    Hookin up two 10s to factory cd player

    How do you hook up subs to a factory stereo in a 2001 ws6? Do I need a line-out converter, and if so what wires do you tap into?

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    You can, but I would suggest if you choose to tap lines, it would be from the stock sub lines, which are in your sail panel. That way they adjust with the eq properly.
    Last edited by KMdef9; 10-11-2009 at 07:12 PM.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    and for good measure, I would tap each side, instead of running it off of one side, that would lead you to the best results.

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    Some amps have LINE IN, so you would not need the pre-amp converter necessarily.
    Last edited by neo74; 10-16-2009 at 05:55 AM.

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    i'd go from the rear tweeters because they run an in-line crossover just directly before teh positive terminal. the stock subs only operate up to like 60 hz or so, taking away your option to adjust the crossover point on your amp.

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    Correct. This is the best way to do this. Tap into the tweeters. You can solder your wires directly to the + and - of the tweeter, right where the factory connector is plugged into before the cap, or cut the wire and use a tee or piggyback splice connector. You will be able to have the full range from the headunit untouched other than the EQ that is built into it. Now you have the amp x-crossover.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo74 View Post
    Correct. This is the best way to do this. Tap into the tweeters. You can solder your wires directly to the + and - of the tweeter, right where the factory connector is plugged into before the cap, or cut the wire and use a tee or piggyback splice connector. You will be able to have the full range from the headunit untouched other than the EQ that is built into it. Now you have the amp x-crossover.
    Do not tap off the tweeter! Tweeters are high range frequency only. You won't get full range at all.

    Common sense involved here, the best lines to tap for your subwoofer singal will be the ones currently feeding your stock subs, right before the amp. Short if getting a new head unit, THIS IS THE BEST WAY to hook up your system. It is alittle more involed, but better results.

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    I don't think I have factory subs??

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6chick View Post
    I don't think I have factory subs??
    You do, they are in the sail panel. The speakers that are in the backseat, not in the trunk, but where your right/left arm would be if your sitting in the back.

    Whatever you end up doing, do not tap the tweeter, the really small speakers in the trunk. There are actually 4 speakers in the trunk deck. 2 mid's (which are high frequency mids) and 2 tweeters (high frequency), if you couldn't/can't get to the subwoofer lines, I would tap the 2 mid (bigger in size) speakers on the trunk deck.
    Last edited by KMdef9; 10-15-2009 at 07:31 PM.

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    Ok, i'm a little confused. I'm going to be installing 2 10's with a seperate amp for the subs. How do you connect the rca outputs from the amp to the factory speakers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Do not tap off the tweeter! Tweeters are high range frequency only. You won't get full range at all.

    Common sense involved here, the best lines to tap for your subwoofer singal will be the ones currently feeding your stock subs, right before the amp. Short if getting a new head unit, THIS IS THE BEST WAY to hook up your system. It is alittle more involed, but better results.
    "Common sense involved here" says to look at the factory wiring diagram. There is no way, notta, zippa, zero wiring to these tweeters that is "high frequency". The tweeters are given a FULL RANGE signal from the MAIN RADIO/ HEAD UNIT. There is a capacitor located on the speaker terminals of all 4 tweeters that allow the higher frequencies to be filtered into speaker. It does not have any bearing on that signal until it gets to that capacitor, then its filtered to the high side. The tweeters are completely separate from that factory amp. The factory amp gets its signal right off the same wiring that feeds those same tweeters!! So how can you tell him not to use it? The factory amp filters the mid speakers, and the subs accordingly from the signal that feeds those tweeters, just like I am telling you.
    Look at ANY drawing of the system and you will see what I am saying is correct. The factory amp just receives that same LINE IN signal. Not trying to be an ass, but it is a 100% guaranteed fact. Someone said use the mid range speakers or the subs. The reason I would stay clear of this is because the subs have already been filtered at around 60 HZ and are already receiving a boost from the factory amp, and the mids are in the same siutation having already been sent through an amplification process. The tweeters wiring is the virgin signal that starts the whole show. Most aftermarket amps have some +DB bass boost or filtering that is best suited for the amp itself.
    Last edited by neo74; 10-16-2009 at 05:59 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6chick View Post
    Ok, i'm a little confused. I'm going to be installing 2 10's with a seperate amp for the subs. How do you connect the rca outputs from the amp to the factory speakers?
    Your amp has either the ability to use Line IN and RCA ( AKA DUAL INPUT) or JUST RCA jacks period. If you do not have a dual input capable amp, your going to have to adapt the Line In to RCA using a special coverter, OR your going to have to get a new head unit and run RCA the whole way back from your new radio. It is your choice. A converter takes the factory wiring and then converts it to a lower voltage and into an RCA plug. What amp do you have? I can tell you what color and what wire you need to use one by one if you let me know what amp you have.

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    This is what I use when I hooked up 2 10s to my factory HU in my 2000 GTP w/ Bose.


    I hope this helps. If you are interested in it PM me. I don't have a use for it anymore.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweet Chops View Post
    This is what I use when I hooked up 2 10s to my factory HU in my 2000 GTP w/ Bose.
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    I hope this helps. If you are interested in it PM me. I don't have a use for it anymore.
    This is a neat little unit. Not only is it a converter, it doubles as an amp turn on signal. You can also use the power antenna wire to turn on an amp in case you do not have this dual style unit.

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    OK so I have a LOC and looking at the instructions, it says to tap into the left and right speaker outputs. The LOC has both negative and positive for left and right, and 2 grounds. Do I hook the left positive and left negative to the left sail panel speaker wire, and do the same on the right side and run the wire through to the other side? then just ground the two ground wires?

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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6chick View Post
    OK so I have a LOC and looking at the instructions, it says to tap into the left and right speaker outputs. The LOC has both negative and positive for left and right, and 2 grounds. Do I hook the left positive and left negative to the left sail panel speaker wire, and do the same on the right side and run the wire through to the other side? then just ground the two ground wires?
    Need to know what LOC you have and what amp you have. 2 grounds? Makes no sense. You have a + and - for the Left and a + and - for the Right, thats normal. We can deal with this but it depends on the amp you have for the rest. If you have an amp with a low pass filter built in we will use the tweeters and your new LOC will work just fine. If you do not have a low pass filter then we really do not have much of a choice but to use the sail panels and the factory low pass setting. The tweeters already have the + and - labeled on the speaker back. My sails were not OEM when I went to replace them so I do not know if the Delco's are marked properly. The plug is for a DVC speaker but the wiring I have from the connector to the speaker is Red + and then Red/Black -, so its really pretty easy. Are you sure you do not have a +12 and a Ground on the LOC??

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