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DRL Woes!

This is a discussion on DRL Woes! within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; It probably will not matter unless it's very wet where you're at. Did you get the switcbacks? I just installed ...

  1. #21
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    It probably will not matter unless it's very wet where you're at.

    Did you get the switcbacks?

    I just installed the switchbacks, sockets and housings a few weeks ago. I ended up switching the DRL wire with the parking light because the white appeared brighter than the headlights. Now the DRL's are white and the parking lights are amber. They flash white and when the parking lights are on it flashes amber and white.

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  2. #22
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    no, i've been hesitant to invest in LED's, ..after hearing of jay98TA's chronic problems w/ them - seems like they weren't made w/ the grade of solder/materials to stand up the the 99.9999% duty cycle the DRL's require.. too much power/heat?..

  3. #23
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    Jay said he had no problems.

    Common causes of Premature
    LED Failure
    *Switching on the ignition &
    starting the engine while the
    leds are switched on.
    *Changing or disconnecting the
    battery while the leds are
    switched on.
    *Charging the battery with an
    auxiliary battery charger, or
    revving the engine hard with a
    weak or dead battery while the
    leds are switched on.
    *Using jumper cables while the
    leds switched on.
    *Excessive AC voltage due to
    damaged diodes in the
    alternator.
    *High system or circuit voltage.
    *Voltage surges caused from
    switching on and off amplifiers
    or other peripheral add on
    devices that use a lot of power.
    *Faulty or out-of spec. voltage
    regulators.

    Autolumination and I'm sure the other companies sell LED Protectors for about $2 each and you use one per bulb on the ground wire.


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  4. #24
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    well, i remember seeing jay post recently about problem/s w/ his VLED's going out after a couple months use... he had pics too.. apparently the solder near the top of the LED tower was heating up and liquifiying, ...thus terminating the connection (i.e. lights out)... last i read he was throwing in the towel on them aftern a couple returns/swaps w/ the manufacturer..

  5. #25
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wileyCoyote View Post
    well, i remember seeing jay post recently about problem/s w/ his VLED's going out after a couple months use... he had pics too.. apparently the solder near the top of the LED tower was heating up and liquifiying, ...thus terminating the connection (i.e. lights out)... last i read he was throwing in the towel on them aftern a couple returns/swaps w/ the manufacturer..
    Willey is correct I kinda gave up on LED's. I contacted the LED manufacture and the LEDs are back ordered. They offered me a refund.

  6. #26
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    After doing some research, I've found JW Motoring Switchbacks. They claim to have had no returns due to failure of the LED and seem to have a good warranty(1year).
    Look in the C5 section under lighting.

    They are $45 a pair and a pair of load resistors is $7. And shipping is free.
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    Last edited by BadTA00; 10-05-2011 at 12:52 AM.

  7. #27
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    I don't know if it's ok to post a link, but if it's not I'm sure Mod will delete it.

    http://shop.jwmotoring.com/product.s...9&categoryId=4

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  8. #28
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YellowTA View Post
    i had the same problem, the filament bulbs put off so much heat, they melt the top of the housings, therefore allowing water to get inside and blowing the bulb and ruining the socket. I got 2 new housings, new sockets, and (2) amber LED bulbs, and replaced the flashers to work with the LEDs. No problems since, and the housings still look brand new.

    This. I sealed the housing cracks above my bulbs, replaced the sockets and bulbs, and haven't had any more problems for years. But, I didn't use LEDs. I don't like how they are almost always dimmer than the 4157s. And I don't want white parking lights, like most of the LEDs have. They turn white when the parking lights/headlights are on? No thanks.

    I did find out that the cheap $7 socket replacements at AZ don't last, and had to buy a $35 one from NAPA, but the quality difference is worth the price, plus doing my own wiring saved $$$ from a repair shop.

  9. #29
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    This. I sealed the housing cracks above my bulbs, replaced the sockets and bulbs, and haven't had any more problems for years. But, I didn't use LEDs. I don't like how they are almost always dimmer than the 4157s. And I don't want white parking lights, like most of the LEDs have. They turn white when the parking lights/headlights are on? No thanks.

    I did find out that the cheap $7 socket replacements at AZ don't last, and had to buy a $35 one from NAPA, but the quality difference is worth the price, plus doing my own wiring saved $$$ from a repair shop.
    i bought the cheaper ones (danco?) that you're talking about - i did the "switcheroo" trick - where i took the removable socket piece out of the new base, and put it (along w/ the new contacts - you have to be patient to set them right) in the old base... this was great because it means no cutting and splicing wires... so far so good!

  10. #30
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    One of my V-LED DRL's is on the fritz already, about a 4 month lifespan. Sending it back to them for a replacement...

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