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Complete Monsoon Speaker Replacement 98 TA

This is a discussion on Complete Monsoon Speaker Replacement 98 TA within the Stereo and Electronics forums, part of the General Help category; Hey guys little help here...I'm replacing all the speakers in my 98 TA. Im going with: Doors: JL Audio C2-525 ...

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    Complete Monsoon Speaker Replacement 98 TA

    Hey guys little help here...I'm replacing all the speakers in my 98 TA.

    Im going with:

    Doors: JL Audio C2-525 2-Way Component Systems Specifications - 4 Ohms
    Rear: JL Audio C2-650X - 4 Ohms
    Hatch: 4" speaker - JL Audio TR400-CXi - 4 Ohms & Tweeters - JL Audio TR050-CT - 4 Ohms

    I working from the trunk forward. I removed the hatch speakers and since the speakers I bought don't really mount like the factory speakers do, I'm making a 6"x9" plexiglass plate to mount the speaker & tweeter to and then I'm going to mount that to were the factory speakers where, shouldn't be an issue.

    The rear speakers should be pretty simple direct replacements...

    For the doors I'm concerned about having to wire a crossover? I've read both not to install the aftermarket crossover and then to install it....

    Right now I have the factory HU and amp, but will definately be replacing the HU within the next two months....

    What should I do with the door speakers? I don't want to blow the new speakers, plus is it ok they are all 4 ohm speakers?

    Thanks guys!

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    Senior Member SteveCZ28's Avatar
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    i ran into this problem when i first got my maro with the monsoon..i blew the front door speakers out and replaced them with a high quality 4 ohm speaker....the thing is you cant hear them, because in theory they are half as loud as the 2 ohm speakers. so when you really have the stereo cranked youll just barely hear the fronts over the rest of the speakers, even if you adjust your fader to put more "power" to the front speakers...i hated the way it sounded

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    And you have to remember the monsoon amp is wired into the car after the stereo, before the speakers. That amp is supplying an amplified signal at 2 ohms. That will always mess up your sound. And the wires all lead into and out of this amp. You are far better off rewiring all the speakers seperately. The door speakers have crossovers set at 2 ohm. Gonna need to remove these. They're behind the door panels wrapped in foam.

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    Guys thanks for the info...I'm looking at the wiring diagram from the actual GM manual and if I'm reading it right it is showing in the hatch the subwoofer is made of a tweeter and speaker both rated at 4 ohm ( i've pulled and verified). The rear speakers (back seat) are 2 ohms (I pulled them out and verified it today) and the front door speakers are 2 ohm mid range and 4 ohms on the tweeter. Does anyone agree? I pulled the amp and the only speakers that work are the front door tweeters because they are wired to the HU.

    I'm going to replace the HU eventually..but until then I was thinking of cutting and abandoning one of the pair of speaker cables to the 2 ohm speakers thus I can install 4 ohm speakers there. I would in essence convert the existing system to 4 ohms all around and then I would buy a new amp which works on 4 ohms.

    What do you think....I would prefer to not rewire the new car, but if I do I will wait until I get the new head unit....

    Finally a new HU is usually 50W x 4....how would I wire all the speakers and tweeters to a typical HU....The unit I want is the pioneer Z130BT...

    Thanks guys...

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Wait and rewire. Imho. Been there

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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    Wait and rewire. Imho. Been there
    Thats what I'm starting to think...I'm going to replace all the factory speakers...would you just run them all the new HU or would you install an amp. I want good sound, but dont need to shake the pavement.

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    i rewired my car....what i did was use the front doors and sail panels, and left the hatch tweeters unhooked...sounds great for me

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    I'm 60x4. Front door speakers on the front of hu,back seat and trunk speakers on back of hu
    Sound great. Probably don't NEED the trunk pair. Put a heavy guage wire in. I put 14 gauge lamp wire from home depot in. Cheap and thick.

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    Alright so after spending my entire weekend trying to get what I want to do in my head straight. I'm going with 6.5" JL C2-650 components in the front, 6.5" Infinity 62.9i in the rear, 4" JL TR400CXI and JL TR050-CT tweeters in the trunk. I'm going to run it off of a JL Audio XD400/4 amp where the stock monsoon amp goes. Im going to run it off a pioneer Z130bt deck. I'm in the process of rewiring the car with 12 gauge speaker wire (overkill I know).

    Has anyone replaced the tweeters in the door? I took out the existing tweeters and now there really is no mounting surface for the tweeter....I was thinking of trying to heat up the old tweeter with its bracket and break it loose from the bracket (looks to be glued). Any recommendations?

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    The new tweet should come with a bracket to clamp it in place.Reuse the factory cup thats stuck in door panel. Dont forget to remove the factory crossovers. They are wrapped in foam and are behind the door panel. You'll need to wire your new ones in. I put mine under the carpet on front pass side.

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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    The new tweet should come with a bracket to clamp it in place.Reuse the factory cup thats stuck in door panel. Dont forget to remove the factory crossovers. They are wrapped in foam and are behind the door panel. You'll need to wire your new ones in. I put mine under the carpet on front pass side.
    Where in the door panel are the factory crossovers? I didn't see them...

    With regards to the tweeters I removed the factory cup and now the plastic wont hold it....I'm going to have to think of a way to mount the tweeter. I removed it because the factory tweeter was bolted and glued to the factory cup...I'm thinking with a heat gun I can separate the tweeter from the cup and then mount the tweeter to the door using some J&B weld....

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Crossovers are possibly behind the plastic. They look like a pigtail wrapped in foam. I never removed the cup,and you probably shouldn't have,either. Search cracked door panels on here and try the epoxy they recommend to glue em back in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    Crossovers are possibly behind the plastic. They look like a pigtail wrapped in foam. I never removed the cup,and you probably shouldn't have,either. Search cracked door panels on here and try the epoxy they recommend to glue em back in.
    Thanks...I was just thinking what to use to put the cup back on...I did get the factory tweeter to separate from the cup when using a heat gun so I definately will not remove the cup on the drivers side door....

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    Folks any recommendations on where to bring my power cable from the engine compartment through the firewall for my amplifier?


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