Can I leave some cables off my amp?

[IH8EVRY1]

I'm installing my amp and sub. I grounded the amp and tested the ground. I have power to the amp and tested the ground and power to the amp. I connected the speaker cables. Before I connect the RCA cables, do I really need to use the remote ground to the radio if the radio is already grounded? Or is it only required if I'm using the remote power wire from the radio to the amp? The way I think I ran it, anytime the car is on there will be power to the amp.

[bills98ta]

If you don't want to use the remote power, you will have to run a short jumper wire from the amp + power, over to the remote, so it will turn on.

[IH8EVRY1]

Got it! Thanks. Everything works now I need to figure out how to adjust it and get it to make some noise.

[IH8EVRY1]

The set up is a JVC head unit, Pioneer GM-X552 (300W) Amp and a Stealth box with a 10" MTX Sub. I wired the Amp from the accessory power by my fuse box to the power on the amp. Grounded the Amp. Ran the remote power from the head unit to the amp. All of those wires are on the correct input places on the amp. I wired the sub to the amp, positive to positive and negative to negative on a single channel from the amp. The Amp gain is turned to normal and the LPF is on but I've tried it with it off too. The rear output on the head unit is set to Woofer and the Woofer Gain in the head unit is set to 8 (Highest possible selection). I can head a little from the sub but not what I'm thinking I should. I put my hand on the face of the sub and can feel it vibrating but no more than the rear speakers of the car.

If you buy that stealth box amped, it comes with a 200W amp so I'd figure my 300W is plenty. Any suggestions to make this thing wake up a little?

[slphwk1]

positive to positive and negative to negative on a single channel from the amp


sounds like you are using one channel of the amp. I remember having to "bridge" the amp by using the positive(red) from the left channel and the negative(black) from the right channel when wiring a single sub to a two channel amp. hope i'm right and this helps...lol

[IH8EVRY1]

positive to positive and negative to negative on a single channel from the amp


sounds like you are using one channel of the amp. I remember having to "bridge" the amp by using the positive(red) from the left channel and the negative(black) from the right channel when wiring a single sub to a two channel amp. hope i'm right and this helps...lol

I'll give it a shot and report back

[IH8EVRY1]

That's what needed to happen. Thanks!

[KMdef9]

If you don't want to use the remote power, you will have to run a short jumper wire from the amp + power, over to the remote, so it will turn on.

This works (obviously) but is not advised.

It will slowly drain your battery leaving it on all the time. Depending on the amp, the condition of your battery and charging system, it can drain it in a matter of hours.

The best thing to do is connect a wire (16-18 guage is more than enough) in your fuse box that turns on when the ignition is turned on. Simply test both sides of the fuse slot with a test light. Once you find a fuse slot that turns on and off with the ignition, test both sides (one side for each blade of the fuse) of the slot location to see which one has power. You can simply wrap the remote wire around the blade of the fuse that doesn't turn on when the ignition turns on (this protects wire). Then stab the fuse back into place.

2nd best way is to switch the "jumper" wire so you can shut off the amp. You can locate the switch anywhere, even right next to the amp if want a quick job.

[IH8EVRY1]

This works (obviously) but is not advised.

It will slowly drain your battery leaving it on all the time. Depending on the amp, the condition of your battery and charging system, it can drain it in a matter of hours.

The best thing to do is connect a wire (16-18 guage is more than enough) in your fuse box that turns on when the ignition is turned on. Simply test both sides of the fuse slot with a test light. Once you find a fuse slot that turns on and off with the ignition, test both sides (one side for each blade of the fuse) of the slot location to see which one has power. You can simply wrap the remote wire around the blade of the fuse that doesn't turn on when the ignition turns on (this protects wire). Then stab the fuse back into place.

2nd best way is to switch the "jumper" wire so you can shut off the amp. You can locate the switch anywhere, even right next to the amp if want a quick job.

I ran a wire from the remote wire on the radio to the amp. Does it work the same way as the fuse box thing. I'd done that in the past and it worked fine until I removed the amp and sub. That slot in the fuse box had been widened and I always had issues with getting a good connection with the fuses in that slot. I finally put a small piece of tin foil on the fuse tabs and it worked but I was always worried about it. The wire on the radio is a power out put and it only had power when the radio was on according to my test light so it should be doing the same thing.

[00ls-1]

a remote from the radio is best bacause it only turns on with the radio, but anywhere that shuts off when the car does is good though. i wired one to a direct hot before and over 2 days it actually drained the battery enough it wouldnt start

[KMdef9]

I ran a wire from the remote wire on the radio to the amp. Does it work the same way as the fuse box thing.

Yes sir.

[IH8EVRY1]

Yes sir.

Copy all! Thanks. I'm doing one in my truck sometime this week( I hope) and I may try it that way with the truck just to diversify. Thanks again. (I hate electronics BTW. Especially ones that aren't plug and play or color matched.)