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squealing brakes...

This is a discussion on squealing brakes... within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; For a while now I've had an intermittent squeal up front which sounds exactly like the pad sensors rubbing the ...

  1. #1
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    squealing brakes...

    For a while now I've had an intermittent squeal up front which sounds exactly like the pad sensors rubbing the rotor. It has all the symptoms of being the sensors. It'll make the squeal if I slightly turn the wheel and goes away when you get on the brakes.
    Friday I replaced the pads. They were due but still had a little life left in them. Brand new ceramics up there and the squeal is still there. I lubed the pins so it's not sticking. I'm going to tear it back down and give everything a real good cleaning and see what's up. Any ideas of other things I should check?

  2. #2
    Member GTO1_OHIO's Avatar
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    What pads are you using?

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Jack up the front end off the wheels and shake/spin them one by one. Your front wheel bearings could be on the way out.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTO1_OHIO View Post
    What pads are you using?
    I got them at advance and their selection sucks these days. The dropped Bendix which is what I always try to use so I got friction master ceramics. It did it with the stock pads too though so I don't think it's an issue with the pads.

    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Jack up the front end off the wheels and shake/spin them one by one. Your front wheel bearings could be on the way out.
    I'll check that but I've had wheel bearings go out and I'm fairly certain that it's not wheel bearings. It's cold as hell right now so I'm going to wait until it warms up a bit and then tear into it again.

  5. #5
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Are the front rotors grooved at all? If not, try scuffing them with emory cloth. We do that at my job. We turn the rotors and we have an emory wheel scuff the rotors giving a slight rough edge for the pads to bed correctly and bite the rotors upon braking.


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    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    Orion,i think you have warped rotors,id still check wheel bearings,damn things have plastic cages now a days freakin junk!

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Those pads are JUNK! They will make noise for sure if you didn't turn the rotors when you put them in. I would get some Bendix MKD-1043's or Napa's TS7646.
    I don't care for the performance of the ceramic pads.

    Not sure if they make them for the 04's but the Sport line from Baer Brakes work really well without too much dust.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Those pads are JUNK! They will make noise for sure if you didn't turn the rotors when you put them in. I would get some Bendix MKD-1043's or Napa's TS7646.
    I don't care for the performance of the ceramic pads.

    Not sure if they make them for the 04's but the Sport line from Baer Brakes work really well without too much dust.
    they're not squealing when I'm on the binders though...they're squealing when off the brakes just like the pad sensor is on the rotor.

  9. #9
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    they're not squealing when I'm on the binders though...they're squealing when off the brakes just like the pad sensor is on the rotor.
    Yes I understand that. It's due to the varience in the rotor run out due to not having them turned and trued. Those pads have a hard surface face so a slight touching of the pad will cause noise.

    It's changes with the temp of the brakes or not?

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    Back at the tech school we have some presentation about rotor surface. They used color imaging to show high/low spots and all kinds of shit and explained to us that 75 percent of the times rotor warpedness.. lol.. is to blame.

    I used those pads that you recommended me and no issues here. Put about.. 25k on them i think. need new calipers and lines next time.

  11. #11
    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    they're not squealing when I'm on the binders though...they're squealing when off the brakes just like the pad sensor is on the rotor.
    Easiest way I know to tell if rotors are out of wack put jack under car,lift car,spin wheel of car,leave tires on,if rotors are in good shape and brakes are setup correctly nothing should rub/grab,mine are in need of some TLC due to many 130ish 1/4 mile mph passes,im still on the stock 05 GM pads rotors etc.my fronts have been hanging up with this method for some time,no noise,makes me wonder how much ET im loosing,going to get er done soon,you want to upgrade to some 05s? I have rotors,and calipers if so.
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    Member Tide's Avatar
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    Nothing special
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    Speaking of brakes, about to replace mine. Any special tools needed? Especially to keep the pistons depressed or to depress them in case they punch out?

    Also, how much of a pain in the ass is it to bleed them? Or is it even necessary?
    Last edited by Tide; 03-02-2009 at 02:07 PM.

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    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    you should not need to bleed anything,if you dont remove any lines or purge any fluid,easiest way is to use a c-clamp open top of master cylinder,this is done so the fluid goes back up easier when your pressing the caliper piston back in so theres room for the new pads.replace everything,start car work brake pedal several revolutions brakes should firm right up,then go check fluid level,make sure you put the cap back on before you depress brake pedal!

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    Member Tide's Avatar
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    Nothing special
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    My God my post had too many typos...

    Pistols instead of pistons...

    OK, cool. Nothing fancy needed. Well, I know what my weekend entails...

    Brakes all the way around...
    Rear diff fluid change out...
    Tranny fluid change with *possible* clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and flywheel replacement and 2nd and 3rd synchro replacement...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tide View Post
    Speaking of brakes, about to replace mine. Any special tools needed? Especially to keep the pistons depressed or to depress them in case they punch out?

    Also, how much of a pain in the ass is it to bleed them? Or is it even necessary?
    A BFH.


    Bleeding would only be necessary if the fluid has become black and is bad. Brake fluid becomes bad after time from absorbing moisture.

    Be careful this don't happen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  16. #16
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    A BFH.
    Click for full size

    Bleeding would only be necessary if the fluid has become black and is bad. Brake fluid becomes bad after time from absorbing moisture.

    Be careful this don't happen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
    Click for full size
    OH DAYUM!! Piston FAIL.

  17. #17
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    stopped in today to grab some bearings to throw in there since they cheap and easy.......at least I thought they were. Have to do the whole hub $256. I believe I'll be putting it up on stands and diagnosing it correctly. My rotors are definitely warped but this is starting to have the sound of bad bearings almost. The last time I had bearings go out was on a 79 T/A I had and it was different than this noise. Those bearings were growling where as this noise is more of a squeal. I'm going to put some rotors on it either way but I want to make sure I don't need to do the hub while it's in the air. $256???? I about shit when I saw that price. I was expecting a few bucks for bearings.

    On an unrelated note I also jacked up one of my vents in the f-body today taking it apart so the gauge is definitely going in the vent now one way the other. Broke it all to hell trying to get it out. It has not been a good car day.

  18. #18
    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    stopped in today to grab some bearings to throw in there since they cheap and easy.......at least I thought they were. Have to do the whole hub $256. I believe I'll be putting it up on stands and diagnosing it correctly. My rotors are definitely warped but this is starting to have the sound of bad bearings almost. The last time I had bearings go out was on a 79 T/A I had and it was different than this noise. Those bearings were growling where as this noise is more of a squeal. I'm going to put some rotors on it either way but I want to make sure I don't need to do the hub while it's in the air. $256???? I about shit when I saw that price. I was expecting a few bucks for bearings.

    On an unrelated note I also jacked up one of my vents in the f-body today taking it apart so the gauge is definitely going in the vent now one way the other. Broke it all to hell trying to get it out. It has not been a good car day.
    wow,thats alot for bearings,hope its just the rotor,call pick a part or them used hub bearings i would.Im still calling it rotor warpage they do this very often.

  19. #19
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    rotors are ordered. I needed those no matter what's wrong with it. I was hoping to mess with it some today but it's cold as hell.

  20. #20
    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    na u sissy my garage is warm lol I have a 50,000 btu reddy heater will sell cheap...

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