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Oil pump ?

This is a discussion on Oil pump ? within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I've been noticing lately that my oil pressure seems to be taking forever to build up whenever I start it. ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
    2004 GTO M6

    Oil pump ?

    I've been noticing lately that my oil pressure seems to be taking forever to build up whenever I start it. It will trigger the "Check Oil" indicator and since I have put the oil pressure gauge in it I can visual see there is 0 oil pressure. There have been times the pressure has taken around 15 seconds to build. Then there are time it will build immediately.

    I run 10w30 Royal Purple oil with a NAPA Gold oil filter. So there is no cheap stuff in there. Is the pump failing? If so, what brand oil pump would you guy's recommend I buy.
    04 Cosmos Purple M6, SAP Grills & Spoiler, '05 Hood, Procharger, TrickFlow 515 HP H/C Kit, SLP LT Headers/LM II, '05 Big Red Brake upgrade, Drag bags, Holden CV8R wheels, GMM Ripshifter. Tuned by New Era: 515 rwhp/471 ft.lbs. Retuned by J&J Speed: Speed Density tuned 586rwhp/ 492 ft.lbs.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    are you saying it's running 15 seconds with 0 oil pressure at times? Man, that's not good. I would take care of that asap. Since you've put in a seperate gauge that rules out the sender so I would think it's either the pump itself or the o-ring on the pump. I've never ran into this so I can't really give you any rock solid advise as to what it is other than I would be getting it taken care of real soon. If it were me and you do end up swapping the pump I would just do a ported LS6 pump. They're fairly cheap.

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    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
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    Thanks for the advise Orion. Can you tell me a good source to purchase a ported LS6 pump from? i.e. SLP, Lingenfelter, etc.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    hugger orange
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    it this a common problem that i should be looking into Sarge? Ive got about 60,000 on my 04

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    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
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    Thanks for the link Sarge.

    One last question...being that I'm well versed on overhauling the old smallblock engines and now just learning the LS series. Is there any special tools needed for removal and installation of the harmonic balancer on the LS engines? Thanks.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mich's04 View Post
    Thanks for the link Sarge.

    One last question...being that I'm well versed on overhauling the old smallblock engines and now just learning the LS series. Is there any special tools needed for removal and installation of the harmonic balancer on the LS engines? Thanks.
    yes i know there is, just never done the job myself

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    it this a common problem that i should be looking into Sarge? Ive got about 60,000 on my 04
    It happens but not often. Usually it is the ORing.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mich's04 View Post
    Thanks for the link Sarge.

    One last question...being that I'm well versed on overhauling the old smallblock engines and now just learning the LS series. Is there any special tools needed for removal and installation of the harmonic balancer on the LS engines? Thanks.
    Let me try and remember here....I believe it takes a special tool....not the regular jaw type puller.....Shit I cant remember!...let me google a bit...I do remember the bolt is TTY so you have to get a new one and not re-use the old one....

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    Impulse Blue
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    I had this happen on my first cam install. Put the cam in and let the chain hang, starting do the springs and the crank spun when airing up the cylinder. Didn't think anything of it and put the car back together. At idle and low speed, the pressure was low. Come to find out, the chain put a pin head hole in the housing causing the loss of pressure. Swapped to a new stocker and all was well again.

    Be careful of the o-ring when installing. Crush that and you'll have very low pressure.

    There is a specific pulley puller for the LS1. They aren't expensive and work like a champ on the stocker. They still work for underdrive pulley's also, at least the SLP, but you have to really watch what you are doing as it wasn't made for them. I can try and see if I can get the part number for it. Think mine is OTC.

    And get a ARP crank bolt. Better and reuseable

    EDIT: Found it... OTC 6267
    Last edited by Rob; 09-28-2008 at 07:43 AM.

  11. #11
    rednari
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    Yes, there is a specific puller type which looks more like a steering wheel puller than a jaw type gear puller. I purchased one from Jegs. The center bolt on the puller threads into the crankbolt hole, while bolts pass through the puller arms and thread into holes threaded into the harmonic balancer. As you tighten the puller, it walks the balancer off the crank snout.

    Then you reverse the process and walk the balancer on with the center bolt when reinstalling the old balancer or installing the new SLP or other underdrive pulley set up. I used a new standard reusable crankbolt and not the OEM torque to yield bolt set up. I do not like the torque to yield concept, and I know it derives from aiding production assembly of engines by setting bolt torque. Its OK for the engine line, but is a bad concept for us. So, do yourself a favor and change the bolt. You have to purchase a new one anyway.

    My timing cover O-ring was OK, so I did not get into that issue. But, I appeared easy to change. Good Luck.

  12. #12
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    on my 98 I just used a 3 jaw puller from the parts store. I haven't looked at my gto's pulley to see if it's a different design or not. I flipped the jaws on the puller and pulled on the inside of the pulley. I also made my own pulley install tool when I put the underdrive pulley on instead of pushing it on with the stock bolt. Less chance to trash those threads on the crank. Easy and cheap to make. Cover shipping and parts and I'll sell you the one I have here. I'd guess I might have $10 in it. Not sure on shipping though. You could probably just buy the stuff local cheaper if you can find a place that sells metric all thread. I want to say it's M16x2.0 pitch.

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    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
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    Thanks for all the help. It's greatly appreciated.
    I scored a set of GM manuals for the '04 GTO. Also went over to Borders book store and bought a book on LS1/LS6 engines. Hopefully these books will answer a lot of questions. I hate to keep badgering you guy's with a bunch of questions that may seem "elementary."
    I will add a SLP oil pump, timing chain, ARP balancer bolt, and balancer tool to the Trickflow head and cam list.

  14. #14
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mich's04 View Post
    Thanks for all the help. It's greatly appreciated.
    I scored a set of GM manuals for the '04 GTO. Also went over to Borders book store and bought a book on LS1/LS6 engines. Hopefully these books will answer a lot of questions. I hate to keep badgering you guy's with a bunch of questions that may seem "elementary."
    I will add a SLP oil pump, timing chain, ARP balancer bolt, and balancer tool to the Trickflow head and cam list.
    keep asking the questions man and don't feel bad for it, lots of other people are waiting for answers but are afraid to ask

  15. #15
    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
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    You have a good point Mark. Thanks!

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    Junior Member Mich's04's Avatar
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    Cosmos Purple
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    I've been looking around at a few different sources for an oil pump.
    My question is...has anyone here ever dealt with Texas Speed And Performance? They offer a ported LS6 pump for $139. Which I didn't think was a bad price.

  17. #17
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    You can take off the balancer with a rented 3 jaw pulley puller from your parts store(free). There are three tabs around the crank bolt you connect to. Replace the balancer seal wile you are there. You would hate yourself if it starts leaking any time soon. And if you take off the front cover it will give you more room to work on your o-ring. No you do not need the alignment tool for the font cover!!! While the balancer is off just slide the cover/seal onto it and install the balancer with the cover on it. Just before you are finished tightening the crank bolt, bolt the cover to the block.. I think you are supposed to put the o-ring in first(in the pump) with a light coat of fresh oil.

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