Keyless Entry Went Out

[cammed goat]

Has anyone had their keyless entry crap out on them? I used mine this morning before going to my training class and everything worked. Once I got to the training center, I had nothing. No unlock/lock/trunk. When I got home, I grabbed my spare which I hardly use...and...same thing. I am scratching my head on this one.

[KahanaReef]

Did you check the batteries in either of them? I just found out the other day that the battery in my spare needed changing.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I'd also open them up and make sure that the battery is making contact with the connectors. Both easy checks to start with.

[cammed goat]

I will check. But I read the remotes are sealed and cannot be put back together.

[cammed goat]

Just tried to take one apart. Gave up. I don't want to destroy my fob if it is a simple fix.

[PatrizioD]

Try disconnecting the car battery, couldnt hurt...

[KahanaReef]

Just tried to take one apart. Gave up. I don't want to destroy my fob if it is a simple fix.

Really? Mine pop right open. They take a CR2032 round battery. On the top where the key ring fits, there is a little gap. Small screw driver should open it right up with little pressure.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Yeah, I don't know what the key fobs look like for goats, but everyone I've ever owned opened just like Mama has stated. It has to open to be able to replace the battery.

[KahanaReef]

Heh... I forgot he's got a GTO But, they are all pretty much the same.

[98maro]

on my car stoped working for a while, change the battery nothin, i went to the delearship it was so expensive, i opened the remote took everything out had it was wet inside..how?idk i cleabed it up, put it back it worked fine..
its always on my pocket i do not know how it got wet..

few weeks later got messed up again, the problem was the case, bought a new one..it works perfect right now..

[Smittro]

Just remember to try not to finger up the electronics board too much..
Micro electronics (most electronics for that matter) don't generally like natural oils present in your skin and/or static electricity.
Many times premature failure of electronic componets can attributed to being touched with the fingers.
I would'nt make myself crazy over whether you touch it tho.. Just hold it by the edges and proceed..
By contrast, after market Fobs are relatively cheap..

[PatrizioD]

I found this while scouring the web, might help. Plus its some new info I've never seen here before...
Transmitter Programming
The transmitter may not communicate with the receiver if any of the following situations occurs:

The transmitter battery wears down.
The transmitter key has been replaced.
The Body Control Module (BCM) has been replaced.
Perform the synchronizing procedure if the transmitter does not communicate with the receiver. If the transmitter and/or receiver are replaced, preform the following programming procedure:

Programming Transmitters With Tech 2

Important
It is not possible to program a remote transmitter without the Body Control Module (BCM) security code. The security code is contained on the Important Security Information Card issued with the vehicle when new.


Using the Tech 2, select Body / Programming / Program Remote Key and follow the instructions.
Enter the security code when prompted and follow the instructions.

Programming Transmitters Without Tech 2
Turn the ignition to ON, then wait 10 minutes for the next step in the programming sequence.
After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp once. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position within 5 minutes after the horn has sounded, then to the ON position within 5 seconds after switching it OFF.
Leave the key to the ON position for 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp twice. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position within 5 minutes after the horn has sounded, then to the ON position within 5 seconds after switching it OFF.
Leave the key to the ON position for 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp 3 times.
Verify that the security indicator in the instrument cluster has stopped flashing and attempt to start the vehicle.
Turn the ignition to OFF and remove the key from the ignition switch.
Move approximately 3 meters (10 ft) away from the vehicle and test the transmitter functions to validate that the transmitter has been programmed successfully.

I dont know what "Tech 2" is, but apparently you dont need it. Hope this helps.

[KahanaReef]

Wow... my remote was way easier to reprogram. Didn't even take 10 minutes. I guess they are quite different. Who knew

[cammed goat]

I also found some stuff online about the BCM wiring rubbing against the dash support beam on the passenger side behind the dash. I found a blue wire which was chaffed. So I wrapped the wiring up and pushed them away from the support beam. I found a wiring diagram online today and the wire for the remote keyless entry wires...which are NOT cut or chaffed. Car runs and drives like there is nothing wrong...which leads me to believe BOTH fobs are dead.

[KahanaReef]

That would be my first guess. As a matter of fact, that is how I found out my spare was dead. The one on my key chain was starting to lag. So I grabbed the spare and it was ever worse. Popped new batteries in both and am good as new

[cammed goat]

Yeah. I am checking out eBay now for an unprogrammed remote.

[KahanaReef]

Did you check the battery yet though? Still having issues getting it open?

[cammed goat]

As soon as I started hearing cracking noises, I gave up.

Tomorrow I'm going to look for the receiver on the dash. I am going to feel like a total idiot if my radar detector is covering it. But, then again, it still worked until yesterday.

[KahanaReef]

Cracking noises aren't good

[cammed goat]

Welp, I broke one apart to see what kind of battery it uses...and found out that the battery is SOLDERED into the circuit board.