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Front End Pedders Install (Pics)

This is a discussion on Front End Pedders Install (Pics) within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Got the endlink bushings put in over the weekend, boy was that fun. I have to say, the hardest part ...

  1. #81
    Member PatrizioD's Avatar
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    Got the endlink bushings put in over the weekend, boy was that fun. I have to say, the hardest part was getting the car up on the jackstands with a too-short floor jack. That little bolt up top is quite the PITA to unscrew, but I think the worst of the Pedderizing is behind me. Figured Id post up this pic showing the bushings 'in action'. Looking at this picture, Im quite glad I made the upgrade.

    Driver's side while parked with steering wheel turned all the way to the left.

  2. #82
    Junior Member gagoat's Avatar
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    torrid red
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    sarge, how did u get the strut bushing out?????

  3. #83
    Junior Member gagoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    On to the swaybar bushings and the end link bushings.
    Pic of OEM swaybar bushings and the new pedders.....you can see the black factory bushing is a joke. Flimsy POS. The new Pedders is solid. By the way they are sitting on top of the POS factory Radius Rod bushing.
    Click for full size
    Here is what we are after....these pics are from the passenger side by the way....
    Here is the swaybar bushing....see the copper bracket holding it in....
    Click for full size
    Now I started to take it off using a open end wrench....but that got old...so I opened the hood and you can get right to both of the nuts ...look down and there they are. I used a couple of extension and got after them. Came right off. Once you get the bushing bracket off...you need to break the swaybar loose.....break the end link from the swaybar here....You may need to jack up the control arm about an inch or two to let the swaybar come loose.....
    Click for full size
    Go ahead and pull the old swaybar bushing out...clean it up good....grease the inside of your new bushing and set it in there....retighten the bracket and nuts. I torqued them to 35lbs. Here is the new one installed....
    Click for full size
    Now remove the end link for its new bushings. You need a 16mm wrench for the top nut and a 14mm wrench to hold it while your taking the nut off. I measured the distance between the first washer and the end of the bolt so I could put it back the same distance.
    Click for full size
    the first pic, mine is sticking up about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the wheel well

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by gagoat View Post
    the first pic, mine is sticking up about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the wheel well
    The first pic at the top is the sway bar d bush sitting on top of the OE radius rod bush. I think you mean the strut mount, correct?

  5. #85
    Member PatrizioD's Avatar
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    Uh oh. I just noticed that my passenger side endlink bushing is missing the top cup-washer. I dont have the washer where I am right now, but I do NOT want that nut having straight contact with the bushing. Will I be alright putting in a regular washer over that until the new piece comes in? I dont plan on driving further than a mile from my house until its all set, but I imagine that any washer would be better than straight nut-to-bushing contact. Also, can I get a replacement at Home Depot or something? I could use the specs for the piece if possible. If not I guess Ill just order a new set.

    I feel like such an idiot.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrizioD View Post
    Uh oh. I just noticed that my passenger side endlink bushing is missing the top cup-washer. I dont have the washer where I am right now, but I do NOT want that nut having straight contact with the bushing. Will I be alright putting in a regular washer over that until the new piece comes in? I dont plan on driving further than a mile from my house until its all set, but I imagine that any washer would be better than straight nut-to-bushing contact. Also, can I get a replacement at Home Depot or something? I could use the specs for the piece if possible. If not I guess Ill just order a new set.

    I feel like such an idiot.
    ID of the washer is 11mm (7/16") , OD is 32mm (1-1/4") 1.7mm thick (1/16").
    Flat washer is better than nothing. Are you missing just the washer?

  7. #87
    Member PatrizioD's Avatar
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    Yeah, I just tore it down and put the washer in; checked it out and thats the only piece I'm missing. As I remember, I was installing at a friend's house when his father came out and starting talking politics. I must've been so heated that I lost my senses for a few seconds. Yet another reason Obama should stay out of the auto industry....

    Thanks a bunch for the specs, is there a curvature degree or something, or should I just base it on visual? If I had another car I'd have taken the washer off the bottom and went to the store. Im waiting for my friend to get home from work to see if he found the piece, but based on his organizational skills its probably long gone.

    Once again, thanks a ton for the help. My mind plays out worst-case scenarios, so I have visions of highway carnage burned into my brain.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrizioD View Post
    Yeah, I just tore it down and put the washer in; checked it out and thats the only piece I'm missing. As I remember, I was installing at a friend's house when his father came out and starting talking politics. I must've been so heated that I lost my senses for a few seconds. Yet another reason Obama should stay out of the auto industry....

    Thanks a bunch for the specs, is there a curvature degree or something, or should I just base it on visual? If I had another car I'd have taken the washer off the bottom and went to the store. Im waiting for my friend to get home from work to see if he found the piece, but based on his organizational skills its probably long gone.

    Once again, thanks a ton for the help. My mind plays out worst-case scenarios, so I have visions of highway carnage burned into my brain.
    pm sent

  9. #89
    Member PatrizioD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    OK...when you remove your original bushing you will have the radius rod sticking through a big hole in the frame. You put your big washer on first.Then your spacer (8mm/4mm etc) on. Then the bushing. Then the outer metal "brace" ( I use the sports setting).
    Im about to do this mod and I've been reading this over and over. Towards the beginning of the post you say it goes spacers, then big washer, then bushing (from the rear of the car forward). The above quoted post leads me to believe that the bushing will be smack up against the small spacer washers instead of the BIG washer.


    I found this online, and I think it would be useful to add to this post.... as long as it's the right way to do it.
    Sorry if it seems like I've got an OCD.

    Edit: I just realized this is a .png file with a clear background, so if you're using the Black theme, the letters barely show up.
    Last edited by PatrizioD; 08-17-2009 at 10:29 AM.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrizioD View Post
    Im about to do this mod and I've been reading this over and over. Towards the beginning of the post you say it goes spacers, then big washer, then bushing (from the rear of the car forward). The above quoted post leads me to believe that the bushing will be smack up against the small spacer washers instead of the BIG washer.
    Click for full size

    I found this online, and I think it would be useful to add to this post.... as long as it's the right way to do it.
    Sorry if it seems like I've got an OCD.

    Edit: I just realized this is a .png file with a clear background, so if you're using the Black theme, the letters barely show up.
    That is the correct way. The small spacers (2, 4, or 8mm) go on first, then the bias washer (left side only), then the supplied large washer, bush, then the cupped washer, then any remaining spacers then finally the ny-lock nut and the 4 small nuts to the frame. Lightly grease the faces of the RR bush where the washers contact the bush. Grease the inside of the bush then insert the crush tube, then assemble as above. That's the only places you need the grease.

    OCD is a good thing when your working on the suspension.

  11. #91
    Junior Member 6806goats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EasyEp View Post
    Dan,
    the car is in germany at the moment. I would like to set the car up so i dont have to worry about anything. I want it to perform well and have a nice ride. I think i will get the Street I package and the other parts for the rear when i can. Thanks for taking time and helping out.
    Hey Easy, did you get back to Germany ok and how's your Goat coming along? Curious to see how it handles and compares to some of the German machines on the Autobahn. I'm kinda in the same boat as you except self inflicted. Home on vacation for one month but since I just got back to the sandbox I'll have to wait to rework the suspension next year.

    I dig your posts Sarge and learning a lot. Was thinking about a Track 2 system but just out to keep her from drifting/darting on the road and in wind conditions. Goal is to at least get to BMW type handling but more is always better. Once I get suspension dialed in and new tires/rims then I'll figure out engine mods with either a twin turbo setup, maybe S/C. I like the turbo approach but would miss the exhaust note. Don't need to have car lifts installed in my shop to do this work but sure would make it much nicer.

    Kudos to all of those posting here.

  12. #92
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    The front of the GTO can be done on jack stands, the sway bar may give you a little bit of work out though. Need to drop the front cradle down to get access to it. The rear is the same. It can be done on stands, but the lower control arms in the rear may pose a bit or trouble getting them back in place. Pry bars and patience will help you with these.

  13. #93
    Junior Member 6806goats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PartsGedder View Post
    The front of the GTO can be done on jack stands, the sway bar may give you a little bit of work out though. Need to drop the front cradle down to get access to it. The rear is the same. It can be done on stands, but the lower control arms in the rear may pose a bit or trouble getting them back in place. Pry bars and patience will help you with these.
    I'll need to read more about the front cradle but I'm guessing this is the frame that holds the engine to the body? Should already know this I reckon but then this is why I'm lookin'. Think I'll look at getting at least a 2 post for the job but I'll eventually need it anyway to do other work like body/frame seperation. Oh hey, what are the advantages (if any) for a novice to buy the rear alignment cradle? Thx

  14. #94
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    The front cradle does hold the engine to the body, but also holds the suspension bits as well. front cradle diag This is what I have for now for a diagram, but you'll get an idea what it is.

    The rear alignment fixture comes if you are dropping the rear cradle of the car or replacing the subframe bushes or dropping the rear differential. These 3 mounting points are what hold the rear cradle in position. The cradle fixture is seated in the rear subframe / chassis & the rear cradle of the car using 4 locating pins on a jig / fixture. Once these pins are in place, the rear cradle is centered to the chassis. The rear diff bolts and the 2 rear subframe bolts are loosened in order to move the rear cradle in the alignment process. The exhaust is dropped first, then the fixture is worked into position. I've used it during installations to keep everything in line so it all gets bolted back together straight. I've had one car very close, but most required adjustment from the factory. The factory got them with in "spec", but not dead on.

    Once the rear cradle is in alignment, move to the transmission. Look at the bolts holding it in place. Make sure they are centered in the flanges. Moving the trans a bit either way to get it centered will get the driveline straight (trans, drive shaft, rear cradle, rear diff).

    Would I recommend buying the fixture? No. Do the work to the rear of the car and get it complete, then get a rear cradle alignment done, or try to borrow / rent / bribe the tool from a GM (Pontiac) garage, etc. Check a local Pontiac Dealer to see if they have one in stock in the tool bin. Chances are they do and may not know it. If you are going to be dropping the rear cradle often, then I'd look at one, but for a one time install, no.
    Dan Morris

  15. #95
    Junior Member 6806goats's Avatar
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    Not sure why I didn't immediately reply to your post but thank you for this great info. COOL!

  16. #96
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    cam and heads

    sarge, which co. in your opinion is the best one for heads and cam set-up.first choice patriot performance, second choice is texas speed and performance. same parts patriot is $100.00 cheaper, what do you think? bob v

  17. #97
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Man I'll tell you I have gone through some head/cam setups. Gunner at Patriot has always been there and given me free setup/custom heads... access to engineering data...and they stand behind their stuff. Patriot is 2nd to nobody.

  18. #98
    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    question,my 05 has an issue with wearing the inside of the front tires,how do I fix this?car has been lined up,still wore.

  19. #99
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Strut rub....strut bushings and the above....use the Pedders alignment specs afterwards...

  20. #100
    Junior Member EasyEp's Avatar
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    yeah i got a kit from pedders that is designed just for that tire rub

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