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Engine DOWN!!

This is a discussion on Engine DOWN!! within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by qwkgto I have set,of 243 they have maybe 2000miles cool how much you asking for...or are they ...

  1. #21
    Member pmolina0436's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwkgto View Post
    I have set,of 243 they have maybe 2000miles
    cool how much you asking for...or are they just laying around and you want to give them away???

  2. #22
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Phantom Black Metallic
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    Ouch!!

  3. #23
    Member pmolina0436's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Ouch!!
    I know.....

  4. #24
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Phantom Black Metallic
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    Look for a set of 243 heads. I have heard they outflow the 241s.


    extreme dimensions, driveshaft shop, harrop, hid(35watt/6k) lows, hurst, k&n, led fogs, maverick man, mishimoto, nitto, revshift, slp, stern st-1, smoked sidemarkers, whiteline poly radius rod bushings

  5. #25
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    yeah if you need heads, nows the time to upgrade them. People act like God came down and touched his finger on 243s.

  6. #26
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    He did. I was there.

  7. #27
    Member pmolina0436's Avatar
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    so qwkgto u selling?

  8. #28
    Member Texas Jack's Avatar
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    243 is a very good head, but how are the pistons and connecting rods, not to be a wet blanket but if the heads are that trashed I would hate to see you put a set of heads on and still have major problems, i'm sure qwkgto will treat you right, but if you have it that torn down pull the motor and go throught it. JMHO Good Luck, Jack

  9. #29
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    keep in mind that valves just don't bend.....something has to pop them to bend them. I would also want to know if you broke a spring or lost a retainer or what happened to cause the bent valve.

  10. #30
    Member Texas Jack's Avatar
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    Yea, I was going to add some of the things you might check, snapped cam, timing chain, snapped crank, even your block could have been damaged, lifter bores, lifters, cam bearings, spun bearings and the list can go on. The only reason I suggest you look it over very close is I have had all the above happen to me. So it is good peace of mind to check everything. I have a feeling you lost oil pressure and all hell broke loose. BTW I hope I am so very wrong and it is an easy fix. Regards, Jack

  11. #31
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I still would strongly lean towards a bent pushrod or something. If you dropped a valve the damage would've been pretty severe and pretty sudden and not just some rattling around I would think.

  12. #32
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    If it's internal, hope it's NOT terminal. That's my way of looking at engine problems.

  13. #33
    Member pmolina0436's Avatar
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    ok...i hope none of those things happened...well my car will be alone for some time i guess..Hope its nothing big..I probly wont start working on it for about a week..so..ill i have to do is just hope for the best..

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas Jack View Post
    243 is a very good head, but how are the pistons and connecting rods, not to be a wet blanket but if the heads are that trashed I would hate to see you put a set of heads on and still have major problems, i'm sure qwkgto will treat you right, but if you have it that torn down pull the motor and go throught it. JMHO Good Luck, Jack
    will casting 317 fit the 04 gto?? are the same as 243..??

  15. #35
    Member Texas Jack's Avatar
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    Not really, they are found on the truck motors, they are still AL and same size valves if I am thinking right the 243 is about 64cc chamber and the 317 is about 71cc the 241 is 66cc so you will give up some CR depending on the gasket you use. If I were you I would do a lot of research if all you need is heads, because there are a lot of choices, and yes it will fit but I think, not sure you will need to use the 6.0 gasket. Please check it out, I am going from memory and that is dangerous!!!!!!!!!!BTW no they are not the same.

  16. #36
    Member Texas Jack's Avatar
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    Here's one of my times I had a problem----1957 chevy 2 door, one of my favorite cars. Had a 327 bad boy in it and was racing a mustang back in the day. 7500 rpm was the RL and at that point [boom], Thought I had trashed it, would not start--- popped the dist cap did not turn, Took the pan and timing chain cover off with a bunch of other stuff of course and the timing chain had let go and it was all in the pan. Cleaned it up, put a new chain and gear set in it, retimed it and I was back on the road. Pure luck nothing else was ruined. Hope your as lucky Other stories did not turn out that way!!!!!!!!

  17. #37
    Member The Silver Goat's Avatar
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    Qucik Silver Metalic
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    If I recall you had problems with an aftermarket MAF as well - go back to OEM. They're good to 500 hp. The PCM can't read an aftermarket unless you get an outstanding tuner who use HP Tuners or LS1 Edit and they re-write all the MAF tables under various load conditions.

    It's an extensive time consuming effort if done properly. Should be done in a fashion similiar to the OEM set up. A +/- 5% LTFT for any driving situation based on current mods. Then start building a tune. In other words build a new base line and go from there...

    For that matter I'd stick with OEM through the modification process. The fundamental programing carry's through. GM had a goal of 350 horse and torque for a 5.7. They applied the same concept to the 6.0 with 400.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Silver Goat View Post
    If I recall you had problems with an aftermarket MAF as well - go back to OEM. They're good to 500 hp. The PCM can't read an aftermarket unless you get an outstanding tuner who use HP Tuners or LS1 Edit and they re-write all the MAF tables under various load conditions.

    It's an extensive time consuming effort if done properly. Should be done in a fashion similiar to the OEM set up. A +/- 5% LTFT for any driving situation based on current mods. Then start building a tune. In other words build a new base line and go from there...

    For that matter I'd stick with OEM through the modification process. The fundamental programing carry's through. GM had a goal of 350 horse and torque for a 5.7. They applied the same concept to the 6.0 with 400.
    tuning the MAF table really isn't that involved at all. Normally it'll only take a few minutes with hptuners to dial in the table. The ve table is more involved than the MAF table.

  19. #39
    Member The Silver Goat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    tuning the MAF table really isn't that involved at all. Normally it'll only take a few minutes with hptuners to dial in the table. The ve table is more involved than the MAF table.
    That's right - that's the cell by cell across a table of values involving tweaking process...

  20. #40
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    When I bought my car I considered swapping MAFs but my tuner told me I am good with the stock one. I can't complain.

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