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Cam only

This is a discussion on Cam only within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Picked up a underdrive pulley as well. Will that enhance the cams performance at all?...

  1. #41
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Picked up a underdrive pulley as well. Will that enhance the cams performance at all?

  2. #42
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    "yes" in that you gain a bump of HP but it doesn't improve the cam. It increases the HP by reducing the drag from the accessories....

  3. #43
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Already deleted the ac belt. Will it do anymore than that?

  4. #44
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Cam only

    yes IIRC depending on the pulley you have 15-25%. They tell you. Understand it's an average based on what you would be under stock pulley's
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  5. #45
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Oh okay thanks for the clarification. I can't wait to get out of NTC so I can drive my newly cammed car. Is there a break in period for new cams, or is it good to go?

  6. #46
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I know for rebuilds there is. I haven't heard of it. I know for rebuilds it's because you are seating the rings, bearings etc...

  7. #47
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Okay that makes sense. I'm also having the shop do a good and thorough (hopefully) dyno tune. With just this and no stall will I be losing much of what the cam has to offer? I was also told by the shop that the car will make more power without the the stall. Is there truth behind this?

  8. #48
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Wrong... Depending on how big a cam it could not run or even pwr through at idle (meaning you need to hold the brake hard at stop lights or you'll roll on) Small cams you should be ok. But the cam and stall should always be matched.

    Think of it this way with M6's. If the clutch or transmission isn't rated for the tq output of the engine it will break them easy.


    FBJ and Jon touched on this above and can clarify the "stall" issues better then me, for I'm more into the manual's




    Are you using the MWR shops to do the cam swap or using a shop in Killeen/C. Cove/Harker Heights?

  9. #49
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    I'm sending it to an actual shop. Sunshine performance in Killeen. It would be a better learning experience to do it myself, but that scares me right now.

  10. #50
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Sounds like the shop is HP leanient on the dyno and worried about a stall soaking HP.

    What they are talking about is that a stock stall is so tight, it won't slip and soak up more HP by the time it gets to the wheels. Hopefully they aren't using this excuse to talk you out of a stall converter, because any shop should know a converter should be used with any performance camshaft application to pull the most "all around" performance out of the vehicle.

    What the stock stall will do since it's tight, is put a little more power back to the wheels because it's not slipping. However that doesn't represent how the car will perform at all. It might show more power at the wheel but it will never drive as well, or be as quick, as a car with the same camshaft and a nice converter. It's going to be sluggish out of the hole and fall out of it's powerband on upshifts. So it actually hurts performance on the street and track without a stall converter.

    Say your car puts down 380 rwhp with the stock stall. Sounds good, but the same car putting down say....370 RWHP with a 3500 stall will run circles around the other one.

    A good shop should be pushing the use of a good stall converter so the customer is happy with the overall end result and performance of the vehicle and not be worried so much about chest pounding dyno numbers, because they honestly don't mean all that much if the rest of the car isn't working.

    On the flip side, whether you use a stall or not, if you want a real HP number on the dyno they can force the converter to lock (no slippage) and it would pass power to the wheels much like a manual transmission. However a stock converter won't handle the stress. They do make aftermarket converters with larger heavy duty clutches that will do this however.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 03-02-2014 at 07:27 AM.

  11. #51
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    The stall is more certainly in the near future. Will I see a noticeable difference in the 1/4 until then though? I've seen some pretty bold claims of drivers with similar modifications, but am a little skeptical. My best right now before a tune was a 13.08. Any idea what could be expected now?

  12. #52
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    A stall will knock off roughly a 1/2 second from your 1/4 mile times. It's like adding about 50 HP even though it doesn't show it on the dyno.

  13. #53
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Wow. That sounds like an epic mod. That sounds like what should go in the cart next.
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  14. #54
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Cam installed! The car freaking screams and feels like a rocket. Best choice I've made in a long while. Also made 420/403 on the dyno! I couldn't be more happy.

  15. #55
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    Cam installed! The car freaking screams and feels like a rocket. Best choice I've made in a long while. Also made 420/403 on the dyno! I couldn't be more happy.
    video?

    so which cam you went with?

  16. #56
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    Agree ^
    10secWS6 If you can't swing it, then don't bring it

  17. #57
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    I went with the Lunati Voodoo 224/228 .576 113 I believe.

  18. #58
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Lunati has always made excellent camshafts, used them for years.

    Now get a stall in that thing and watch your ET come alive

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