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This is a discussion on Cam only within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; i am def planning a stall in the near future. but i hear all over the place that i wont ...

  1. #21
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    i am def planning a stall in the near future. but i hear all over the place that i wont be happy with it until i get one. how will it behave without one?

  2. #22
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I've always been a fan of Lunati stuff.

    This one looks like 222/228 @ .050 and has 113 lsa with 4 degrees of advance ground in.

    A nice middle of the road cam. You are still going to need a converter with it or you won't be very happy.
    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Those are the advertised numbers. The .050 numbers are what should be looked at closely as they are more accurate to compare one cam from the next. In this case it's 222/228, so it's a rather mild camshaft.


    Oh Ok FBJ.....I need to pull my cam sheet and look at it again. I'm going to send you a copy and can we go over FBJ?



    Here's my cam:
    Tick Performance Street Heat Stage 3 POLLUTER Camshaft for LS2 Engines - Tick Performance

  3. #23
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    222/228 is the duration numbers at .050" lift. This is a better representation of the camshaft profile.

    The 272/278 numbers are the advertised numbers, these vary from one cam manufacture to the next because they don't disclose how they are measured, some are straight up, some are .006", etc.... So these numbers are fuzzy at best.

    As far as this camshaft, it's rather mild, ground on a 113. It will have some lope to it but nothing radical, very street driver friendly. However, I'd still recommend a converter since this cam likely won't come alive until 3500ish rpms, so a stock converter will make the car feel a tad sluggish out of the hole, and also any cam with even a small amount of overlap will want to drag the brakes when stopped and act as though it doesn't like to idle in gear, affect your vacuum signal, or in the case of fuel injection the map signal. So there will be some finess tuning going on to make it drivable without a converter, one of which would likely be a slightly higher idle than normal just so the thing would idle in gear etc....

    Frost could certainly explain the details, and I'm sure it could be made to work, but in the end you'll wish you put a converter in it.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Oh Ok FBJ.....I need to pull my cam sheet and look at it again. I'm going to send you a copy and can we go over FBJ?



    Here's my cam:
    Tick Performance Street Heat Stage 3 POLLUTER Camshaft for LS2 Engines - Tick Performance
    Now that's getting into the realm of what I consider a "performance" camshaft 239/244 @ .050 on a 111 lsa with only 2 degrees advance ground in. It will have a fairly choppy idle, and love rpm. I assume this is going in something larger than a 346?

  5. #25
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Thank you very much. in the midst of a crappy wednesday i have learned a lot. i know this is probably a rookie question. but with an "optimal tune" how much am i looking to gain from this mod?

  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    i am def planning a stall in the near future. but i hear all over the place that i wont be happy with it until i get one. how will it behave without one?
    I must have been typing when you wrote this.

    Like I touched on, the car will be sluggish out of the hole, since this cam likely won't come alive in a 346 until 3500ish, with peak torque around 4200ish, so it will seem like an eternity out of the hole until the engine comes alive. That may be a slight overstatement but gets the point accross.
    The other issue with larger overlap camshafts are the idle characteristics and how they act with a tight converter. Easier to finess the tune with all this computer age stuff, but in a nutshell they don't like to idle without a loose converter and may feel like the car is trying to push through the brakes in extreme cases. Around town driving can get annoying.
    You may not notice the things I'm talking about until you drive the car a while and then actually put a nice converter in. That's when the realization comes in that the converter makes a world of difference and you'll wish you did it sooner.

  7. #27
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Now that's getting into the realm of what I consider a "performance" camshaft 239/244 @ .050 on a 111 lsa with only 2 degrees advance ground in. It will have a fairly choppy idle, and love rpm. I assume this is going in something larger than a 346?
    It's going into my 6 liter


    Link in signature...



    I'm using my LS6 intake for now and later plan on getting a FAST 102 when I can afford it, a NW 102 TB and higher injectors. Not sure if the 42lb's will still be enough when the 102 goes on.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    Thank you very much. in the midst of a crappy wednesday i have learned a lot. i know this is probably a rookie question. but with an "optimal tune" how much am i looking to gain from this mod?
    Hard to say for sure. It would need headers, exhaust, intake mods, etc.. to exploit all the HP potential but I'd guess a solid 40HP isn't out of the question, engine should spin to 6500 with ease. With a gear swap and a converter it will "feel" like you added another 40HP

  9. #29
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    It's going into my 6 liter


    Link in signature...
    So 364 cubes, I assume .030 over. 370 cubes then?

    With that cam,,,,,I like it will be a fun ride.

  10. #30
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    def want gears and the stall. christmas only comes once a year though lol. thats what the wife says anyway.
    2005 Impulse Blue GTO
    Kooks Longtube Headers (off-road mids) , SLP Loudmouth II Catback, Vararam OTRCAI, MSD Spark Wires, 238/242 .595, Trickflow 225cc Heads, SLP 25% UD Pulley, Breather, Elite Engineering Catch Can, 3200 TC,Hayden Trans Cooler, P&P TB, Dyno tune by Sunshine Performance

  11. #31
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    def want gears and the stall. christmas only comes once a year though lol. thats what the wife says anyway.
    Understandable. Little at a time

  12. #32
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    not bored out that much yet (Currently 4.005"), just couldn't afford time and $$$ on waiting. It's occupied my garage for a yr now and wife is me to get it out. So getting it up and running for now is the priority. I talked it over with Martin from Tick and choose this cam because I still want a 408 build and this cam can be transfer into it when I finally get the stroker crank and pistons. Martin told me I'll have one hell of improvement as I'm currently bored but when it I can go to a 408 he said it will really come on.

  13. #33
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Voodoo Hydraulic Roller Cam - GM LS GEN III/IV 272/278.... So this is whats going in with the 222/228 at .50. might as well do the pushrods as well. do i need to go above stock length or can those stay the same? Also what diameter

  14. #34
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    do the valve springs have to be at max .600 since the life is only .586 max?

  15. #35
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    i run into more and more questions. please give me the run downs on everything so i can hit the buy button already.

  16. #36
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Cam is on the way with new pulley and the vararam intake. just need info on the springs and pushrods and i will be complete for now

  17. #37
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    hey i have 250 posts!

  18. #38
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    Voodoo Hydraulic Roller Cam - GM LS GEN III/IV 272/278.... So this is whats going in with the 222/228 at .50. might as well do the pushrods as well. do i need to go above stock length or can those stay the same? Also what diameter
    You need to wait till the cam is in and if you do a heads swap, have the heads on to measure for push rods. Chrome Moly are a must. Thereis a thread in the General Help section that goes over how to measure. CompCams sells a checker for $20.

    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    do the valve springs have to be at max .600 since the life is only .586 max?
    Best advice is to call and talk with the ppl who make the cam OR Brian Tooley/Martin from Tick. They will recommend springs that will work with the cam. I'll be honest I have BTR springs and they are rapidly gaining popularity and have a solid rep. Same for his SLR lifters. Cost more but somethings quality is worth the price.


    Quote Originally Posted by dethinboots View Post
    hey i have 250 posts!
    slacker...

  19. #39
    Insurgent Hunter dethinboots's Avatar
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    Many thanks man. And as for the slacker comment.... Im trying!!! lol

  20. #40
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    There is a writeup I wrote in the general help section under one of the sticky posts that goes through a whole cam install, if you are going to do it yourself that is.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
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