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Been testing Oil

This is a discussion on Been testing Oil within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Appreciate the advice. Guess ill start at the maf and work my way back. Hard to believe idve fouled a ...

  1. #941
    Something Diabolical... chuckie669's Avatar
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    2000 C5 Torch Red

    Appreciate the advice. Guess ill start at the maf and work my way back. Hard to believe idve fouled a plug or o2 in 20k miles, but stranger things have happened.

    I'm shocked how much oil these cath cans collect in a 2-3 week period.

  2. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Statistics tell us for every 10000 regular folks there is one total idiot. You found him.
    1000 InterWeb points for you.
    Can I have a cookie?

    Gotta run gas with no oil for a while, my old exhaust vibrated (flowmaster) alot more and I want to see the difference without that extra vibration
    for idle smoothness, my driving varies too much to compare mileage effectively over 34 gallons
    Last edited by wheeliE-maxx; 02-14-2011 at 04:12 PM.

  3. #943
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie669 View Post
    Appreciate the advice. Guess ill start at the maf and work my way back. Hard to believe idve fouled a plug or o2 in 20k miles, but stranger things have happened.

    I'm shocked how much oil these cath cans collect in a 2-3 week period.
    stock gm tune is pretty rich, might contribute

  4. #944
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    radiant ebony
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    I am looking for an advice in choosing the right TC-W3 for my Mazda, gasoline, european spec. I have read a couple of sites in this thread, but mit my English knowledge it is not so easy to find information I need
    I am from Poland and could find in polish online-shops a lot of TC-W3-oils. The quality range seems to be wide. There are fully synthetic oils (Valvoline Synpower Outboard, Shell Nautilus, Midland Synqron ...), which burn ashless (no sulphated ash), "partly synthetic" oils, which also have a low ash level (max. 0,01%)
    and also "mineral" oils (for example Valvoline Super Outboard 2T), where the level can bee very different, from 0,01% to 0,04%. My question ist, can I use a mineral TC-W3 with low ash level (0,01%)?
    BTW: The TC-W3 in Poland seem to be much more expensive than in USA or Canada ...

  5. #945
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    As long as it is a "TC-W3" rated oil, my understanding is that it has the additive pack that you want, irrespective of the brand. I personally run the cheap Walmart brand, "SuperTech".

  6. #946
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pankuba View Post
    I am looking for an advice in choosing the right TC-W3 for my Mazda, gasoline, european spec. I have read a couple of sites in this thread, but mit my English knowledge it is not so easy to find information I need
    I am from Poland and could find in polish online-shops a lot of TC-W3-oils. The quality range seems to be wide. There are fully synthetic oils (Valvoline Synpower Outboard, Shell Nautilus, Midland Synqron ...), which burn ashless (no sulphated ash), "partly synthetic" oils, which also have a low ash level (max. 0,01%)
    and also "mineral" oils (for example Valvoline Super Outboard 2T), where the level can bee very different, from 0,01% to 0,04%. My question ist, can I use a mineral TC-W3 with low ash level (0,01%)?
    BTW: The TC-W3 in Poland seem to be much more expensive than in USA or Canada ...
    Most run the cheapest TCW3 rated oil they can find. No benefit from running a more expensive/synthetic TCW3 over a cheaper conventional TCW3 we have found to date.

  7. #947
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    radiant ebony
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    pajeff02, Sarge, thx guys.

  8. #948
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    Just an update...we had the heads off putting the new valves/cam etc. in the Silverado. Pistons were shiny like new. 75K with the TCW3. Plugs were pristine.

  9. #949
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    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

    No pic?

  10. #950
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Nah...I did not have a camera....frankly I never do

  11. #951
    Junior Member TeamMudd's Avatar
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    just thought i'd throw an update in here as well.

    as for the Excursion i was adding tc-w3 pretty regularly at least when every other fill up. average fill up was 15-20gal. well since i read this thread and ended up trying it, all in all there has been about a 1mpg gain across the board. if i keep my foot out of it, drive normal, slim to no city driving, i'll get 15-16mpg. not bad for a 7700lb truck with a V10, small lift and 285/75/16 mud tires. i actually don't use it as my daily driver any more, but still add a bit of tcw3 on occasion.

    as for the F250 it's a weekend warrior, gets driven about once or twice a month, i try and keep at least 3/4 tank in it. can't say much on this one, since i don't drive it often, but the average pulling mpg is 11-12, hwy is about 14. mind you this is coming from a lifted truck with 40" radial tires, 4.56 gears and headers, with free flow exhaust on a V10. i honestly haven't noticed any mpg increase/decrease with this truck.

    now to the new addition.......picked up a 99 honda accord with a ULEV-VTEC 2.3L(190K), auto, 2dr for $500. this is now my daily driver/gas saver as well as insurance saver($12/mo to put it on the road)! when i got the car, had a slight miss, changed plugs and wires, runs like a champ! well after the plug change, i started some tcw3 treatment. the first 2 fill ups were 28/29mpg... not bad, still almost double what the Excursion was getting. well the third fill up i calculated 32mpg, decent increase, could just be a change in weather or minor driving changes.....well this last fill up was 35mpg. i drive conservatively (60mph with cruise, same as the Excursion). i've done nothing else to this car after the plugs/wires, added the initial tcw3, and use about 1oz every fill up (avg about 6-7 gal/ fill up). i figure the tcw3 is cleaning out some of the crud that's built up over the last 190K. after reading more about them, i'm going to do a TB cleaning, intake, and EGR cleaning, and maybe get an extra couple mpg out of it. but for now, i'm tickled with 35!!

    had a question brought up to me as well. talking to some one else about the tcw3 additive, they said they used to add HEAT to a tank about once a month. i used to do this as well. i stopped the HEAT treatment when i added the tcw3. so it got me wondering, is there any reason to maybe add the HEAT every so often, or does the tcw3 act as a similar additive?

  12. #952
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    I've got an update also, this one from my neighbor, he's not a member so I'll copy what he sent me below.
    We're both interested in hearing all your comments, Thanks

    Brian,

    I have some new data on this one. Last summer about the time I started using the 2 stroke oil in my LS2 motor (2007 Trailblazer SS - 70K miles) I had a trouble code appear (check engine light). At the time I misinterpreted it as a temperature sensor issue tied to when I repositioned the ambient temperature sensor during the installation of a transmission cooler. I cleared the code, and didn't think anything of it as the car still ran fine. Well the code reappeared 200 mi later (and was cleared - too busy to deal with it). This occurred a number of times with shorter mileage intervals each time. All the while I was adding the 2 stroke oil.

    I eventually stopped using the 2 stroke oil and as it turns out, the code was actually for an "unexpected throttle position" -po0121, not a temperature sensor. In researching the code I found that a dirty throttle body could be the cause. Before pulling the throttle body I noted on my dashhawk that the sensor was showing 11-12% throttle position at idle and I was down to 13 MPG (mixed driving). I pulled the TB and found it all sooted up, as well as the rest of the intake tract. I cleaned up the TB and put it back in. This cleared up the trouble code issue, the engine was now idling at 4-5% throttle (in gear) and 3-4% (in neutral) but it took a long time to return to idle (30+ sec) and the throttle remained at 15%-13% whenever I took my foot off the gas and was braking to a stop. If I let off the brakes in gear, the engine would accelerate the car to 40 MPH with no input from me. I did a relearn on the throttle position sensor (2x) - didn't help. Finally I just drove it for 2-3 days and the condition improved, eventually (after a week) getting to the point that throttle would drop to 11% (instead of 14%) when I took my foot off the gas at 25 MPH and would remain at 11% until after the car had come to a complete stop.

    At this point (300 miles after cleaning the TB) I noticed that the LTFT (lean fuel table) numbers were also fairly inconsistent (all over the place) which is a result of the CPU modifying the programmed fuel table curve (leaning it out) based upon the O2 sensor readings. I assumed I also had some clogged injectors. I ran a tank of gas with fuel injector cleaner and things improved. Then thinking about the soot, I ran "complete fuel system cleaner" to include deposit removers. I am in the middle of my 2nd tank of gas with fuel system cleaner and the throttle position is still reducing (now immediately dropping to 5% when I take my foot off the gas at 25MPH), the LTFTs are improving, and gas mileage is getting better.

    I don't know if the 2 stroke oil was the culprit, but if you are still running it you ought to consider assessing your TBs for soot build up. You may share this with whomever you wish.

    Regards,

    Rick

  13. #953
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    No way possible that issue was caused by the proper use of TC-W3 imo.

  14. #954
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    Sounds like the evidence had learned itself for the dirty conditions then when cleaned ran more efficiently than needed and is readjusting itself slowly to the right conditions

  15. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianz426 View Post
    I've got an update also, this one from my neighbor, he's not a member so I'll copy what he sent me below.
    We're both interested in hearing all your comments, Thanks

    Brian,

    I have some new data on this one. Last summer about the time I started using the 2 stroke oil in my LS2 motor (2007 Trailblazer SS - 70K miles) I had a trouble code appear (check engine light). At the time I misinterpreted it as a temperature sensor issue tied to when I repositioned the ambient temperature sensor during the installation of a transmission cooler. I cleared the code, and didn't think anything of it as the car still ran fine. Well the code reappeared 200 mi later (and was cleared - too busy to deal with it). This occurred a number of times with shorter mileage intervals each time. All the while I was adding the 2 stroke oil.

    I eventually stopped using the 2 stroke oil and as it turns out, the code was actually for an "unexpected throttle position" -po0121, not a temperature sensor. In researching the code I found that a dirty throttle body could be the cause. Before pulling the throttle body I noted on my dashhawk that the sensor was showing 11-12% throttle position at idle and I was down to 13 MPG (mixed driving). I pulled the TB and found it all sooted up, as well as the rest of the intake tract. I cleaned up the TB and put it back in. This cleared up the trouble code issue, the engine was now idling at 4-5% throttle (in gear) and 3-4% (in neutral) but it took a long time to return to idle (30+ sec) and the throttle remained at 15%-13% whenever I took my foot off the gas and was braking to a stop. If I let off the brakes in gear, the engine would accelerate the car to 40 MPH with no input from me. I did a relearn on the throttle position sensor (2x) - didn't help. Finally I just drove it for 2-3 days and the condition improved, eventually (after a week) getting to the point that throttle would drop to 11% (instead of 14%) when I took my foot off the gas at 25 MPH and would remain at 11% until after the car had come to a complete stop.

    At this point (300 miles after cleaning the TB) I noticed that the LTFT (lean fuel table) numbers were also fairly inconsistent (all over the place) which is a result of the CPU modifying the programmed fuel table curve (leaning it out) based upon the O2 sensor readings. I assumed I also had some clogged injectors. I ran a tank of gas with fuel injector cleaner and things improved. Then thinking about the soot, I ran "complete fuel system cleaner" to include deposit removers. I am in the middle of my 2nd tank of gas with fuel system cleaner and the throttle position is still reducing (now immediately dropping to 5% when I take my foot off the gas at 25MPH), the LTFTs are improving, and gas mileage is getting better.

    I don't know if the 2 stroke oil was the culprit, but if you are still running it you ought to consider assessing your TBs for soot build up. You may share this with whomever you wish.

    Regards,

    Rick
    Your neighbor needs to learn about LS motors and oil in the intake. He has a filthy MAF (and probably other issues)....tell him to look up LSX Catch Cans. Fuel nor any fuel add has anything to do with his issue. His is a GM PCV routing issue that is well known in LSX motor circles.

    He can pour all the mechanic in a bottle fuel cleaners he wishes into it and it will only have placebo effects until he fixes the root cause.

    His "data" is all within the variables found daily doing absolutely nothing.

  16. #956
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    Thanks Sarge, I'll pass this on to him.

  17. #957
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    And never forget....fuel does not pass through our throttle bodies/throttle position sensor or MAF.

  18. #958
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    And never forget....fuel does not pass through our throttle bodies/throttle position sensor or MAF.
    it does if you ether it.... lmao

  19. #959
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    LOL....Giggle Juice doesnt count. This guys problem has nothing to do with any fuel add at all.

  20. #960
    Junior Member skyraider's Avatar
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    been testing stuff

    I just replaced my plugs and all 8 all though warn well after 77 k miles, all the porcelain was white, no soot, no blackened plugs, mechanic said just warn, but otherwise, looked good. They have had 4 or 5 gallons of 2 cycle oil run thruthem and all is well with the tcw3 program and a lot cheaper then MMO.

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