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Battery Relocation

This is a discussion on Battery Relocation within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; No I wouldnt....but I will say....you need to launch and adjust as you feel is necessary....

  1. #41
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    No I wouldnt....but I will say....you need to launch and adjust as you feel is necessary.

  2. #42
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    Torrid Red
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    I'm a bit worried about doing this incorrectly- its not the instructions, they're very straightforward but I dont wanna miss something myself & cause something to happen like ruin the alternator, or blow myself up cause the gas tank was shorted out. J/K(sort of...im a worrier when it comes to accidentally breaking things) is it really this easy?

    I'm also short on cash and may forego the Summit kit if possible, and make my own with 2ga wire from lowe's and a battery box from NAPA

  3. #43
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    I run a large trannie cooler for more capacity and heat control myself...I run Valvoline DexVI I beat the shit out of it and the Used Oil Analysis come back like new.....
    http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/36

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1fan74 View Post
    I'm a bit worried about doing this incorrectly- its not the instructions, they're very straightforward but I dont wanna miss something myself & cause something to happen like ruin the alternator, or blow myself up cause the gas tank was shorted out. J/K(sort of...im a worrier when it comes to accidentally breaking things) is it really this easy?

    I'm also short on cash and may forego the Summit kit if possible, and make my own with 2ga wire from lowe's and a battery box from NAPA
    You wont hurt anything. Just pay attention and do it.

  5. #45
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Ambient temps have no effect on your lube.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobv View Post
    sarge. i am using vavloline full synthetic dextron v1 in my gto,i also installed a bigger trans pan 2 qts more. how often should i change the fluid. thanks again bob v
    start a new thead for this please or dig up one of the oil related threads. This one is a battery thread. Thanks.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobv View Post
    orion, i am new to your forum, if i want to ask sarge a question, how do i contact him, thats why i ask the question in the battery relocation reply. sorry for putting the question in that spot. thank you for your time.. bob v
    I'm not sure if you're eligible for private messages yet.... I think you need a 10 post minimum to use pm's so make 3 more posts and then click his nickname and a menu will drop down. Choose private message from that menu and you can contact him that way.

  8. #48
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    06 gto

    battery relocation

    sarge, i did the battery relocation exactly as you posted, after that i did a cam swap and vavle springs,small cam 224/222 566/568 112 lsa, it was dyno tuned 397 h.p. @ the rear wheels and 376 lbs torque, also forgot to tell you i also installed longtube headers. car starts fine when cold. but if i go to the store and try and start it when warm it cranks very slowly just barely starts. i removed starter and had it checked, its ok, also tested alternator putting out 13.9 volts, my battery is new rated at 700 cca.the battery cable is 1/0 and also checked all grounds, and added an extra ground d/s head to chassis. the ground in my trunk is to the tank brace, any help would be great, thanks bob v

  9. #49
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Hey bobv, I had the same problem...1st thing try running another ground strap from the block or heads down to the frame and a second ground strap from your battery to frame.

    If that doesn't help, try wrapping your passenger side header with heat wrap, starter heat sheild and heat wrap for your main power wire where it runs anywhere near the header.


    The problem is HEAT and lots of it getting to the starter motor

  10. #50
    Member importssuck's Avatar
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    Do you have a pic of inside the 200 amp fuse box?

  11. #51
    Impounded
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    subscribing...nice job

  12. #52
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobv View Post
    sarge, i did the battery relocation exactly as you posted, after that i did a cam swap and vavle springs,small cam 224/222 566/568 112 lsa, it was dyno tuned 397 h.p. @ the rear wheels and 376 lbs torque, also forgot to tell you i also installed longtube headers. car starts fine when cold. but if i go to the store and try and start it when warm it cranks very slowly just barely starts. i removed starter and had it checked, its ok, also tested alternator putting out 13.9 volts, my battery is new rated at 700 cca.the battery cable is 1/0 and also checked all grounds, and added an extra ground d/s head to chassis. the ground in my trunk is to the tank brace, any help would be great, thanks bob v
    Yes I found out the same thing. You must ground your engine block to the frame. In the back your grounded to the frame. When you do this that "slow start" is totally eliminated.
    Ground the block to the ground on the frame the factory originally used.

    I'll take some pics today.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by importssuck View Post
    Do you have a pic of inside the 200 amp fuse box?
    Just a 200 amp fuse. But OK....I'll get you a pic today.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1fan74 View Post
    I'm a bit worried about doing this incorrectly- its not the instructions, they're very straightforward but I dont wanna miss something myself & cause something to happen like ruin the alternator, or blow myself up cause the gas tank was shorted out. J/K(sort of...im a worrier when it comes to accidentally breaking things) is it really this easy?

    I'm also short on cash and may forego the Summit kit if possible, and make my own with 2ga wire from lowe's and a battery box from NAPA
    Over the past few 4-5 decades I have blown myself up a dozen times. It only hurts a lil.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by importssuck View Post
    Do you have a pic of inside the 200 amp fuse box?

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobv View Post
    sarge, i did the battery relocation exactly as you posted, after that i did a cam swap and vavle springs,small cam 224/222 566/568 112 lsa, it was dyno tuned 397 h.p. @ the rear wheels and 376 lbs torque, also forgot to tell you i also installed longtube headers. car starts fine when cold. but if i go to the store and try and start it when warm it cranks very slowly just barely starts. i removed starter and had it checked, its ok, also tested alternator putting out 13.9 volts, my battery is new rated at 700 cca.the battery cable is 1/0 and also checked all grounds, and added an extra ground d/s head to chassis. the ground in my trunk is to the tank brace, any help would be great, thanks bob v
    Ground to the block....

    Then the other side is ground to the frame under my positive "splice box"....it is the original factory ground location for the battery.....

  17. #57
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    I suck at digital cameras.
    Just about 18" of battery cable and two battery terminals.
    fixed the "slow start" problem instantly.

  18. #58
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    One thing I do on all of my relocations which may help with the slow starters. Instead of using the small gauge wire provided with the kit, I make a trip to a welding supply store and use welding lead. It's very dense and comes in larger gauges and is very easy to route. The larger cables handle the amp load from a hot starter a lot better. Just remember to mark the ends of your positive side with red shrink wrap or red tape so they don't get confused. The welding lead is more expensive, but it is well worth it and makes life a lot easier on your starting system. Hope this helps. It's worked for me for years.

  19. #59
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Yup I went with 0 gauge wire for mine and that took care of my hot start problems

  20. #60
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    well this was nice

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