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Battery Relocation

This is a discussion on Battery Relocation within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Get a few emails a week on various issues....and I'm happy to answer as times allows......many of you tell me ...

  1. #1
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Battery Relocation

    Get a few emails a week on various issues....and I'm happy to answer as times allows......many of you tell me you don't want to look "silly" for asking on the open forum and PM me....there is no such thing as a stupid question guys.....because the truth is there are 50 other folks who have the same question and don't want to ask it.....So with that said...I have had a few questions lately about relocating the battery in our GTO's...I did it a long time ago but I'll write up a little "how to" here.....

    Why would I relocate my battery? Well few reasons.....
    1. We are nose heavy to begin with. Taking the 35-40lbs out of the nose is a good thing.
    2. Adding the weight of the battery over the passenger side rear tire assist in traction. Yup it does.
    3. Gives you room in your engine bay. Looks better and increases battery life. Heat shortens any batteries life.
    4. Relocating your battery drives the women crazy. Yup. I got a BJ and laid twice the very day I relocated my battery.

    So what do you need.....
    1. Battery relocation kit from our sponsor Summit Racing http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku

    2. Positive battery terminal.
    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10315/10002/-1

    3. 200 AMP fuse ( you can get anywhere they sell top end stereo systems.)
    http://www.donrowe.com/accessories/fuse_anl.html

    4. Junction box to connect existing positive cable ( to starter) to new cable running from the rear. I got mine at Home Depot (electrical splice box).

    5. About 15' of flex conduit. ( Home Depot)

    6. Some tie wraps. To secure the cable and the conduit as it runs up side the car.

    7. A 1/2" plastic conduit connector. ( Home Depot)

    Remove your battery and all the bracket stuff. I just secured my existing ground cable back down to the lug that had previously secured the bracket.

    I mounted the new box per the instructions. Be careful where you put it ....be sure your trunk lid hinges don't hit it when you close your trunk!
    Splice in your fuse. I used an electrical box I had laying around....

    Drill a hole in your trunk to run the cable. Run the positive cable through the hole in the battery box and out your trunk ....use your 1/2" plastic conduit connector on your 1/2" hole you've drilled to prevent the cable from rubbing against the sharp metal...Slip your cable into the conduit. There is plenty of spare cable so dont worry about it. Run your cable/conduit along side the passenger side. Lots of ways to connect (tie wraps) all along there. Just route it so it isnt going to get pinched when your suspension is going up and down....but easy to route it up to the engine compartment....It is the light blue conduit. The darker is the fuel line.


    I painted my splice box with high temp red paint. I made a simple bracket and used the old bolt and hole left over from the original battery bracket setup...

    Hey I had it why not. Plus gray looked like shit Drill a couple of access holes in your splicing electrical box for your terminal and your cable.....I used some wire loom to prevent the cable from rubbing on the edges.....

    Connect the new cable to the bottom (inside) of the battery terminal and the old cable to the top.
    I wasn't fancy with my ground. Connected it to the tub on the side and ran a simple grounding cable to the frame under the car. I didn't want to put the ground in the flat portion of the trunk as it would get in the way.
    Be sure and ground to a solid chassis ground whatever you choose to do. I repeat....I have a grounding strap on the other side that is connected to a chassis ground.

    Like I said. I did this a couple of years ago and have had zero issues.
    I am not about pretty....but all about functionality...so I'm sure you guys get the idea here on how to do it....you can do a better looking job I'm sure...so that's pretty much it. Hope this may help somebody.
    Last edited by Sarge; 03-17-2008 at 04:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Ebaaaaaaaaa Speedy_Gonzales's Avatar
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    good post

  3. #3
    Junior Member pocket rocket's Avatar
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    phantom black
    2006 GTO

    that's a great post and just @ the right time. In two weeks we Nelson Performance & i will be installing TWIN Turbos and the battery will have to take back seat. Turbos will be in full view upon opening the hood. What kind u ask. Gen TT kit for GM V8'S

  4. #4
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yup....I'll be there Allen and Jonathon told me about your ride. Going to be a beast man. I assume your doing the Walbro/Bucket mod for fuel? I also want to talk to Allen about venting your crankcase properly. I have had great success with venting both valve covers with zero oil spray and stopping all the back pressure.....no leaks and get the rings to seal baby
    Mother Nelson will charge me $100 an hour for being there so I wont be there very long!

  5. #5
    Junior Member pocket rocket's Avatar
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    phantom black
    2006 GTO

    battery relocate

    You are most welcome to partake in the creation of a monster

  6. #6
    Junior Member pocket rocket's Avatar
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    phantom black
    2006 GTO

    I forgot to mention I was not aware of those mods for venting valve covers walbro/ bucket for fuel. I really appreciate the info. have a great day. I am on my way to see the MAN .............ALLEN

  7. #7
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yup.....I am going to do a pic/write up on the vent mod this morning....seems I made a mod recommendation about deleting the PCV and confused folks This morning I had 4 PM's asking about it.....Allen knows the bucket mod/Walbro pump mod as that is what we did on the Black Bitch of Death....

  8. #8
    Junior Member pocket rocket's Avatar
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    phantom black
    2006 GTO

    Cool relocation of battery

    yep Allen knew about the mods. and he said he was going to that even if I hadn't asked. That's why he's the man sarge.

  9. #9
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yes he is.

  10. #10
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    thanks again for the info Sarge, the only problem is you are making me make my to do list longer, I guess i'l do the relocate this weekend after I put the pacesetter headers and exaust on, then next weekend I'l have to do the crank case breather delete!

  11. #11
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    oh! and I started on the weight reduction too!

  12. #12
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    Yellowjacket
    2004 Pontiac GTO M6

    Wow... I wish I would have read this write-up before doing mine. I completely removed all my stock wiring and ran all new. Two wires from the trunk to the engine bay and trying to wrestle 1ga wire on to the starter without any removal or lowering is a MOFO!!! I didn't wire in a fuse though. I figured I'd do it later on. But I keep forgetting to do it


    I'd post pix, but I'm a newbie here and I don't seem to have pic-post rights yet

  13. #13
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    Hi Sarge, know I'm resurrecting a couple month old thread. but just wanted to say us newbies appreciate the work and knowledge here so we don't have to ask as much.

    Do you feel that battery relocation helps handling ( I actually drive a 2000 T/A) in theory it seems it would.

    Thanks
    Steve

  14. #14
    Member Tide's Avatar
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    Nothing special
    Nothing special

    /off topic

    Can't believe you haven't blown out the rear half shafts....

    /on topic:

    Steve,

    Anything to balance out the extreme forward weight bias will help handling (and launch times). Everyday driving? Not so much. Autocross/track? Absolutely.

  15. #15
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenm357 View Post
    Hi Sarge, know I'm resurrecting a couple month old thread. but just wanted to say us newbies appreciate the work and knowledge here so we don't have to ask as much.

    Do you feel that battery relocation helps handling ( I actually drive a 2000 T/A) in theory it seems it would.

    Thanks
    Steve
    Your welcome man.....yes....the more weight we can redistribute to get the car as close to 50-50 the better we are......we are nose heavy....

  16. #16
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade M View Post
    /off topic

    Can't believe you haven't blown out the rear half shafts....

    /on topic:

    Steve,

    Anything to balance out the extreme forward weight bias will help handling (and launch times). Everyday driving? Not so much. Autocross/track? Absolutely.
    Mostly M6 guys have....I am putting down 600 to the wheels....we have inspected them twice.....no issues.....

  17. #17
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Just a little FYI, for those guys/gals who may not know it. You see how Sarge has his fuse for the HOT line close to the battery? That's for a reason and the proper way to wire it. A fuse placed under the hood with the battery in the trunk does you no good..
    A fuse placed where Sarge has his will blow @ the power source and kill power to the entire length of wire in the event of a short. A blown fuse that has been placed under the hood will leave the rest of the wire before the fuse LIVE and could cause a fire if it was to rub through.

    Sorry for thread jackin' Sarge.
    Last edited by Smittro; 06-10-2009 at 04:21 PM.
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


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  18. #18
    Member 6.0LiterImportEater's Avatar
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    This is something I am planning on doing shortly. I didn't think of routing the wire underneath the car but go through the inside and out the firewall (like building a high power system.......which I have alot of experience with. I actually have a gold plated 200 amp fuse for 0 gauge wire still laying around which is planned to be used haha.).

    Would there be any problems with going through the interior?

    Especially when considering track rules/regulations.

    Also how did you mount the box in your trunk? Did you just drill into the floor and bolt up that way?

    Thanks in advance!

  19. #19
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6.0LiterImportEater View Post
    This is something I am planning on doing shortly. I didn't think of routing the wire underneath the car but go through the inside and out the firewall (like building a high power system.......which I have alot of experience with. I actually have a gold plated 200 amp fuse for 0 gauge wire still laying around which is planned to be used haha.).

    Would there be any problems with going through the interior?

    Especially when considering track rules/regulations.

    Also how did you mount the box in your trunk? Did you just drill into the floor and bolt up that way?

    Thanks in advance!
    i used 4 self tapping bolts down through the trunk floor. I also ran mine inside along the passenger side.....its a pain to get the carpet to fit over the loom, but the end product came out great.

  20. #20
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobv View Post
    sarge. on your battery relocation. in the trunk your neg wire coming out,where did you go with it? close by to a ground. or further up front. thanks bob v
    No I drilled and sanded a spot on the frame in the rear of the car. Then up front I grounded the original ground to the frame and ran a new 1guage wire from the engine block to the frame.

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