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4l65e vs. 4l60e

This is a discussion on 4l65e vs. 4l60e within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; what are the limits to both auto trannys as far as rwhp and modding?? when will they give out and ...

  1. #1
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    4l65e vs. 4l60e

    what are the limits to both auto trannys as far as rwhp and modding?? when will they give out and when will you have to beef them up, what consists of the beefing up? and how much does it cost?...im deciding whether to trade in my auto gto for a ls1 stick one (ill lose some money)..or just buy a ls2 gto (lose more money) reason being is cause whatever i do im gonna be runnin n20 (sittin in my garage) and plan on doin, intake, lt headers, pulley, shiftkit, tranny cooler, possibly stall, def dr's...aannd thats bout it... the m6's are t56's right, and gto's rear ends are good for low 11sec right?
    Last edited by Raoul-Duke; 05-30-2007 at 02:13 PM.
    01 m6 z28 - lid / lt headers / 3' ory w no cats / flowmaster catback w 3' dmh e-cutout / nelson pcm tune

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    Knight of Chaos Rhinoman's Avatar
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    The first thing i would do is check about replacing your driveshaft joint. It's rubber stock. I read that if you upgrade to a metal one you will gain quite a bit of wheel horse and throttle response. I think it costed around 1500.?.?

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Stock 4L60E around 350 to the wheels you'll have issues. TransGo shift kit/cooler/tune shift points and firmness will save your butt up to around 400 to the wheels. Even with a higher rpm stall.
    The drive shaft comment is valid. Much much smoother and launches are light years ahead of the stock setup. But you will limit your top speed from DS vibration with a one piece....
    I have made a few mods to my 04 GTO....here is the list for the transmission alone

    4L65E Stage V High Performance Built By Finish Line Transmissions
    Wood Dale, Illinois
    • FLT performance pump
    • Cryogenically treated FLT sleeved input drum
    • Cryogenically treated input sprag races
    • Cryogenically treated low roller race
    • Cryogenically treated bearing style reaction shaft
    • Cryogenically treated output shaft
    • GM 5 pinion planets front and rear
    • Wide 2-4 band
    • 8 B/W high-energy clutches in 3-4 pack
    • FLT beast shell w/bearing
    • B/W 29 element sprag
    • 4L65 low roller clutch
    • Transgo HD-2 shift kit
    • Corvette Servo
    • Bushing kit
    • All solenoids
    • Internal wire harness
    • Spacer plate
    • B/W clutches
    • Seal & gasket kit
    • Filter
    • Updated accumulator pistons
    • Set end play to performance specs
    • Deep GM pan (n/a C-5 corvette model)
    • Sonnax super hold 4th gear servo
    • B&M Transmission Cooler
    • B&M Transmission spin on filter
    So I am good up to around 1100HP.

  4. #4
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    I have a BONE stock tranny in my Goat still.
    JK
    No but really I do and I'm at least 600 going 11.20's right now pedaling due to wheel hop.
    Yes I would do the 1 piece driveshaft. The rearends are good to about 650-680 depending on how hard you hit it out of the gate. I'm doing 1.57-1.59 60' foots right now on 17's and have NOT broke anything yet.
    The input shaft is what usually cracks. They make billet shafts and after market sprags also. We usually have the sun shells tig welded on ANY rebuilds done.
    I would say go with the LS2 car even if it's more money. There is a vast improvement from the 04's.
    Shit I'm going 11.20's with my stock manifolds and stock convertor....You are not going to do that with a LS1 car!!
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    here is the list for the transmission alone

    4L65E Stage V High Performance Built By Finish Line Transmissions
    Wood Dale, Illinois
    • FLT performance pump
    • Cryogenically treated FLT sleeved input drum
    • Cryogenically treated input sprag races
    • Cryogenically treated low roller race
    • Cryogenically treated bearing style reaction shaft
    • Cryogenically treated output shaft
    • GM 5 pinion planets front and rear
    • Wide 2-4 band
    • 8 B/W high-energy clutches in 3-4 pack
    • FLT beast shell w/bearing
    • B/W 29 element sprag
    • 4L65 low roller clutch
    • Transgo HD-2 shift kit
    • Corvette Servo
    • Bushing kit
    • All solenoids
    • Internal wire harness
    • Spacer plate
    • B/W clutches
    • Seal & gasket kit
    • Filter
    • Updated accumulator pistons
    • Set end play to performance specs
    • Deep GM pan (n/a C-5 corvette model)
    • Sonnax super hold 4th gear servo
    • B&M Transmission Cooler
    • B&M Transmission spin on filter
    So I am good up to around 1100HP.
    pssh! that's it?

  6. #6
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    yeahhhh...i think i might go with the ls2 car...however all i really plan on doin with the ls1 is just cai, lt headers, to cutouts...transgo shiftkit, tranny cooler, dr's...and a 100 shot...will the shot kill my tranny if i dont shoot out of the hole and have the spray on a sec gear lock?

  7. #7
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackz-lt1 View Post
    yeahhhh...i think i might go with the ls2 car...however all i really plan on doin with the ls1 is just cai, lt headers, to cutouts...transgo shiftkit, tranny cooler, dr's...and a 100 shot...will the shot kill my tranny if i dont shoot out of the hole and have the spray on a sec gear lock?
    You'll be FINE to do the baby shot right out of the gate with NO issues. Just make sure that ALL tq management bs in off.
    If you wait all the way until second gear it won't make that big of a difference in your et.

  8. #8
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    You'll be FINE to do the baby shot right out of the gate with NO issues. Just make sure that ALL tq management bs in off.
    If you wait all the way until second gear it won't make that big of a difference in your et.
    soo i wont break anything on dr's...even just heating em up in the box?..i have a 10 bolt in my z soo i hope you understand why im so cautious,lol...and tq mngmnt, whats best for these cars a handheld programmer or a dynotune to remove it?? i want to be running 11's on the spray..thats my goal...can my tranny take a sprayed launch like that?

  9. #9
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackz-lt1 View Post
    soo i wont break anything on dr's...even just heating em up in the box?..i have a 10 bolt in my z soo i hope you understand why im so cautious,lol...and tq mngmnt, whats best for these cars a handheld programmer or a dynotune to remove it?? i want to be running 11's on the spray..thats my goal...can my tranny take a sprayed launch like that?
    Yes you'll be fine....I have a couple customers blowing 175 right out of the gate with 275/40/17 Mickey drag radials and have not broken anything in over a year. They are in the mid 11's in the heat.
    A dyno tune is ALMOST always better depending on the tuner. I say ALMOST because I have had a couple of cars brought to me with a "good dyno tune" and nitrous and they had NO clue!
    If you buy a handheld I would recommend a Diablo.They are pretty user friendly and always coming with updates.
    Please remember DON'T buzz your sh_t 5500-6000rpm in the water box!!
    And your drag radials only take a light haze NOT a JohnForce to work.
    Drive around the water box and THEN back into it..........Not rolling the front tires that are probably 8"-10" wide through the water so all that can run down the tread as your staging and launching!!

  10. #10
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Yes you'll be fine....I have a couple customers blowing 175 right out of the gate with 275/40/17 Mickey drag radials and have not broken anything in over a year. They are in the mid 11's in the heat.
    A dyno tune is ALMOST always better depending on the tuner. I say ALMOST because I have had a couple of cars brought to me with a "good dyno tune" and nitrous and they had NO clue!
    If you buy a handheld I would recommend a Diablo.They are pretty user friendly and always coming with updates.
    Please remember DON'T buzz your sh_t 5500-6000rpm in the water box!!
    And your drag radials only take a light haze NOT a JohnForce to work.
    Drive around the water box and THEN back into it..........Not rolling the front tires that are probably 8"-10" wide through the water so all that can run down the tread as your staging and launching!!
    yeah usually ill hold it at 4k droppin it to 3k with the brake and then one last surge of smoke up to 5 and then ill stage...soo do you think i will be a low 13 sec car wo n20 with cai, lt's, dr's, shiftkit, and tune?? also where should i put my c2 n20 and fuel pressure gauges at in the goat....cause i cant put them on the pillar like in my z,lol

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