4l65e vs. 4l60e
This is a discussion on 4l65e vs. 4l60e within the GTO forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; what are the limits to both auto trannys as far as rwhp and modding?? when will they give out and ...
05-30-2007, 03:01 PM #1
4l65e vs. 4l60e
what are the limits to both auto trannys as far as rwhp and modding?? when will they give out and when will you have to beef them up, what consists of the beefing up? and how much does it cost?...im deciding whether to trade in my auto gto for a ls1 stick one (ill lose some money)..or just buy a ls2 gto (lose more money) reason being is cause whatever i do im gonna be runnin n20 (sittin in my garage) and plan on doin, intake, lt headers, pulley, shiftkit, tranny cooler, possibly stall, def dr's...aannd thats bout it... the m6's are t56's right, and gto's rear ends are good for low 11sec right?
Last edited by Raoul-Duke; 05-30-2007 at 03:13 PM.01 m6 z28 - lid / lt headers / 3' ory w no cats / flowmaster catback w 3' dmh e-cutout / nelson pcm tune
05-31-2007, 02:57 AM #2
- Join Date
- May 2007
- 2006 Pontiac GTO
The first thing i would do is check about replacing your driveshaft joint. It's rubber stock. I read that if you upgrade to a metal one you will gain quite a bit of wheel horse and throttle response. I think it costed around 1500.?.?
05-31-2007, 03:42 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Texas Department of Corrections
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Stock 4L60E around 350 to the wheels you'll have issues. TransGo shift kit/cooler/tune shift points and firmness will save your butt up to around 400 to the wheels. Even with a higher rpm stall.
The drive shaft comment is valid. Much much smoother and launches are light years ahead of the stock setup. But you will limit your top speed from DS vibration with a one piece....
I have made a few mods to my 04 GTO....here is the list for the transmission alone
4L65E Stage V High Performance Built By Finish Line Transmissions
Wood Dale, Illinois
- FLT performance pump
- Cryogenically treated FLT sleeved input drum
- Cryogenically treated input sprag races
- Cryogenically treated low roller race
- Cryogenically treated bearing style reaction shaft
- Cryogenically treated output shaft
- GM 5 pinion planets front and rear
- Wide 2-4 band
- 8 B/W high-energy clutches in 3-4 pack
- FLT beast shell w/bearing
- B/W 29 element sprag
- 4L65 low roller clutch
- Transgo HD-2 shift kit
- Corvette Servo
- Bushing kit
- All solenoids
- Internal wire harness
- Spacer plate
- B/W clutches
- Seal & gasket kit
- Updated accumulator pistons
- Set end play to performance specs
- Deep GM pan (n/a C-5 corvette model)
- Sonnax super hold 4th gear servo
- B&M Transmission Cooler
- B&M Transmission spin on filter
05-31-2007, 06:57 AM #4
I have a BONE stock tranny in my Goat still.
No but really I do and I'm at least 600 going 11.20's right now pedaling due to wheel hop.
Yes I would do the 1 piece driveshaft. The rearends are good to about 650-680 depending on how hard you hit it out of the gate. I'm doing 1.57-1.59 60' foots right now on 17's and have NOT broke anything yet.
The input shaft is what usually cracks. They make billet shafts and after market sprags also. We usually have the sun shells tig welded on ANY rebuilds done.
I would say go with the LS2 car even if it's more money. There is a vast improvement from the 04's.
Shit I'm going 11.20's with my stock manifolds and stock convertor....You are not going to do that with a LS1 car!!Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
05-31-2007, 01:26 PM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Cincinnati, OH ish
My life is a
- Ben Stiller movie.
06-04-2007, 06:21 AM #6
yeahhhh...i think i might go with the ls2 car...however all i really plan on doin with the ls1 is just cai, lt headers, to cutouts...transgo shiftkit, tranny cooler, dr's...and a 100 shot...will the shot kill my tranny if i dont shoot out of the hole and have the spray on a sec gear lock?
06-04-2007, 07:46 AM #7
06-04-2007, 11:03 AM #8
06-04-2007, 11:52 AM #9
A dyno tune is ALMOST always better depending on the tuner. I say ALMOST because I have had a couple of cars brought to me with a "good dyno tune" and nitrous and they had NO clue!
If you buy a handheld I would recommend a Diablo.They are pretty user friendly and always coming with updates.
Please remember DON'T buzz your sh_t 5500-6000rpm in the water box!!
And your drag radials only take a light haze NOT a JohnForce to work.
Drive around the water box and THEN back into it..........Not rolling the front tires that are probably 8"-10" wide through the water so all that can run down the tread as your staging and launching!!
06-04-2007, 12:12 PM #10
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