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LS1 Vs. ProCharged LT1

This is a discussion on LS1 Vs. ProCharged LT1 within the Kill Stories forums, part of the Racing Forums category; I know that spot, I recognized it when I seen that sign " financed by Commerce Bank " lol, right ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    I know that spot, I recognized it when I seen that sign "financed by Commerce Bank" lol, right on Route 18 South. Nice video bro. That noise your hearing is the air pump valve (sounds like one of those funny whistles, don't recall the name of them though, but they have those handles that you pull out when you blow into them). Delete pulley will fix that. EGR needs to be deleted, as it's throwing the PCM for a loop. I apologize for not being around as often, as I got caught up in the Third generation world again. Will have some crazy @ss Route 37 footage for you guys soon....

  2. #22
    Impounded MikeSomething's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    I know that spot, I recognized it when I seen that sign "financed by Commerce Bank" lol, right on Route 18 South. Nice video bro. That noise your hearing is the air pump valve (sounds like one of those funny whistles, don't recall the name of them though, but they have those handles that you pull out when you blow into them). Delete pulley will fix that. EGR needs to be deleted, as it's throwing the PCM for a loop. I apologize for not being around as often, as I got caught up in the Third generation world again. Will have some crazy @ss Route 37 footage for you guys soon....
    A delete pulley? Most people who take em off just cap em and that's it man. The PCM screwing w/ the diverter valve or whatever is what I'm gonna look into. After I find someone to tune it, if it's still whistling after it cycles, I'll just lube up and bend over at my mechanic's shop... Oh yea, and my AC doesn't work, it's affecting that as well. I'm seriously gonna cut a fuel line soon, light the match and walk away from it.

    1) $100.00 - Friend helping me install the intake
    2) $200.00 - Tune
    3) $75/hr - To find vacuum leaks
    4) $30.00 - EGR & AIR Blockoff's

    I still need headers, gears, stall, & probably a crap load of money to fix my car after putting all that on.
    Last edited by MikeSomething; 06-13-2007 at 02:16 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething
    A delete pulley?
    LOL, you see.... I told you I got caught up in the 3rd Gen world again. I'm thinking Tuned Port Injection.

  4. #24
    Impounded MikeSomething's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    LOL, you see.... I told you I got caught up in the 3rd Gen world again. I'm thinking Tuned Port Injection.
    Well, I'm soon get out of 4th Gen World and join POS stationwagon world or something...

  5. #25
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething
    A delete pulley? Most people who take em off just cap em and that's it man. The PCM screwing w/ the diverter valve or whatever is what I'm gonna look into....
    A lot of people do that yes, but they also experience the exact same thing you are. The air pump is still being controlled by the PCM, even with the block off plates in tact. To rid yourself completely of that noise you'll need to remove the air pump entirely, and/or disconnect the electrical terminal from the unit. The SES light is because of the EGR not being connected, so in essence, your PCM is not being effected by the air pump just yet, until you literally disconnect, pull and remove it. The connection still acts as a buffer. Once pulled from the engine bay, have the PCM receive it's disabling of what you eliminated, and your good to go. Remember, much like the EGR valve, just because the air pump inlets have been plugged doesn't mean the PCM isn't trying to activate it. The pump is trying to force air into a block off plate (or cap, in this case), so you can imagine the resistance it's giving (that noise your hearing)....
    Last edited by Street Lethal; 06-13-2007 at 02:44 PM.

  6. #26
    Impounded MikeSomething's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    A lot of people do that yes, but they also experience the exact same thing you are. The air pump is still being controlled by the PCM, even with the block off plates in tact. To rid yourself completely of that noise you'll need to remove the air pump entirely, and/or disconnect the electrical terminal from the unit. The SES light is because of the EGR not being connected, so in essence, your PCM is not being effected by the air pump just yet, until you literally disconnect, pull and remove it. The connection still acts as a buffer. Once pulled from the engine bay, have the PCM receive it's disabling of what you eliminated, and your good to go. Remember, much like the EGR valve, just because the air pump inlets have been plugged doesn't mean the PCM isn't trying to activate it. The pump is trying to force air into a block off plate, so you can imagine the resistance it's giving (that noise your hearing)....
    The pump's been out man. I removed the pump, disconnected the harness, & ripped out all the hoses on day 1.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething
    The pump's been out man. I removed the pump, disconnected the harness, & ripped out all the hoses on day 1.
    Then that noise your hearing has to be a vacuum leak then, there is no other explanation. The only thing that is puzzling is that it's a random noise. The air pump is triggered only so often, which descibed the noise we heard that night you came with us, perfectly (that's what I meant when I mentioned diverter valve). But if the noise is constant (which is what you were telling us in the beginning), and with the pump being pulled, it has to be a vacuum leak, and/or exhaust leak, because the noise I was referring to only comes from the air pump itself....

  8. #28
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething
    I still need headers, gears, stall, & probably a crap load of money to fix my car after putting all that on....
    You definitely do not want to do anymore racing until that SES light is removed, and that vacuum/exhaust leak is located and corrected. Remember though, even with the current mods, the car isn't going to snap your neck back. When you install the stall, as well as a good tune, is when and where you'll feel the most benefit....

    With my wife's (now mine) '98 trans Am, we initially installed a TCI-3500 stall, SLP Lid w/K&N filter, and tune. Went a best of 12.80 w/slicks with only those mods. Threw on an LS6 intake not too long afterward, and it neither benefited, nor hindered performance. What I'm saying is, until you go cam, headers, stall and tune, your not going to go as fast as you'd really like. The idea now is to maximize the current setup's power, by eliminating the set codes, tuning for better tables, and planting the power to the ground....

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    Will have some crazy @ss Route 37 footage for you guys soon....
    Woah woah what do you mean! I only heard you ccame down once! Where is this crazy footage coming from and how come I wasnt invited lol.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EE1983
    Woah woah what do you mean! I only heard you ccame down once! Where is this crazy footage coming from and how come I wasnt invited lol....
    We've been there about six or seven times within the last two and a half weeks lol. Dave took me over by the boardwalk awhile back, and I was immediately hooked. Had absolutely no idea Route 37 was like that. Honestly makes Route 9 and Route 18 feel like Area 51....

    Getting ready to put some video's up on Streetfire.net, with quite a few of the roll races being courtesy of the Tom's River network. Just need a few more though. There is this one black 03/04 Cobra that hangs out by the big Wawa in which I'm now dying to run. Pretty fast car....!

    Thought we seen you last week, same colored Evo, but w/black rims.

  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    We've been there about six or seven times within the last two and a half weeks lol. Dave took me over by the boardwalk awhile back, and I was immediately hooked. Had absolutely no idea Route 37 was like that. Honestly makes Route 9 and Route 18 feel like Area 51....

    Getting ready to put some video's up on Streetfire.net, with quite a few of the roll races being courtesy of the Tom's River network. Just need a few more though. There is this one black 03/04 Cobra that hangs out by the big Wawa in which I'm now dying to run. Pretty fast car....!

    Thought we seen you last week, same colored Evo, but w/black rims.
    Thats what Ive been saying! Lots of races down here. Lots of great competition. Let me know next time you come down Ill head out. Yeah there is another electric blue evo around here but like you said, he has black wheels so its easily distinguishable from me. The black 03/04... the KB Cobra?...VERY LOUDDD?
    Last edited by EE1983; 06-14-2007 at 07:35 AM.

  12. #32
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething View Post
    A delete pulley? Most people who take em off just cap em and that's it man. The PCM screwing w/ the diverter valve or whatever is what I'm gonna look into. After I find someone to tune it, if it's still whistling after it cycles, I'll just lube up and bend over at my mechanic's shop... Oh yea, and my AC doesn't work, it's affecting that as well. I'm seriously gonna cut a fuel line soon, light the match and walk away from it.

    1) $100.00 - Friend helping me install the intake
    2) $200.00 - Tune
    3) $75/hr - To find vacuum leaks
    4) $30.00 - EGR & AIR Blockoff's

    I still need headers, gears, stall, & probably a crap load of money to fix my car after putting all that on.

    My A/C was working fine when I took it off, I will let you have the whole she-bang for 200 ducks.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roastem View Post
    My A/C was working fine when I took it off, I will let you have the whole she-bang for 200 ducks.
    is that the whole ac compressor and what not? dont u gain like 10hp by taking it off?

  14. #34
    Impounded MikeSomething's Avatar
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    A/C compressor? 200 ducks? Ok, before I get more confused...
    My A/C still blows out cold air, but it doesn't switch over from the floor & dash to the front vents. My guess is that it works off of a vacuum line. My car is makin a high pitched squeel... Means I probably have a vacuum leak.

  15. #35
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    Condenser, lines, A/C compressor, brackets, THE WHOLE THING homey.

  16. #36
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    is that the whole ac compressor and what not? dont u gain like 10hp by taking it off?
    I would say thats about right. Not to mention you drop about 50 lbs off your front end. Combine that with a Meziere electric water pump on an LS1, and you might be blessed with a noticeable increase in trap speed and seat of the pants power!

    With a set of P & P LS6 heads, electric water pump, approx. 300 lb weight reduction, I gained 9 mph in the 1/8 mile trap, from 88 to 97.

    Almost a 100 mph in the eighth! Mikey likey!

    A set of slicks and I will prolly be mid-7's, and a street car that can pull that will put a big ole' sh*t eatin' grin on your face

  17. #37
    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSomething
    200 ducks?

  18. #38
    Impounded MikeSomething's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roastem View Post
    I will let you have the whole she-bang for 200 ducks.
    My eyes are crossing from starring at this thing to long...

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