Vert suspension questions

**Huskerz1** · 12-21-2006, 02:53 PM

I've got plans for some big horse power soon and i will need to beef up my susension. I've been looking at BMR stuff primarily. LCAs, panhard, torque arm, lowering springs, sway bars, sub frame connectors, and STB.
How hard is it to adjust a panhard rod? Is it something I should get a certified mechanic for so the SS doesn't dog track? Same question applied for the adjustable TQ arm too. Is a non adjustable TQ arm ok when lowering? Are there any issues I should be aware of when lowering the vert? I plan on going down 1". Will the rear sag down more due to weight? Will a TSP true dual dumps and pacesetters scrape?

Thanks

**Huskerz1** · 12-21-2006, 02:59 PM

Ttt

**sunset solar** · 12-23-2006, 02:27 AM

I am only going by what i have read, and it seems Lt's have issues scraping when a car is lowered. Some poeple say they dont have any clearance issues, but those are usually people with stock springs.

as for the adjustable parts. A stock TQ Arm, as well as a Tubular TQ Arm will work with a lowered ride. With the adjustable peices themselves, it can be a bit difficult getting everything inline correctly. A lot of getting out, turn adjsutment one way or another, get in and drive and see how it feels. My recomendation is to find a GOOD suspension shop, and dont go cheap. Tell them what you are looking to do. A buddy of mine was suspension tuning for several days, before finally giving in and taking his car to a buck'n'bo tech. Surprising enough, they guy knew what he was doing, and even added weight to the suspension to compensate for the ride with a driver in it. THIS IS A MUST!!! Make sure your tech does the same, you will thank him when hitting a corner and you are able to squeeze a few extra MPH in the apex

***Ed Blown Vert*** · 12-24-2006, 09:40 PM

I run all BMR suspension and the Pro-kit.

I have scaped my Y pipe. Just have to take driveways slow.

**LS1Power06** · 12-25-2006, 11:26 AM

if lowering your ride you will need an adj. TQ arm.

**Eugenio_SS** · 12-25-2006, 01:26 PM

what kind of power you are talking about ?
I have some decent hp output: 508-511 rwhp from 4400-6600 rpm range.
That is only on NA setup

I'm heavy as a pig, but the thing still moves.
If you are more into straight line, then BMR is great... but once you start putting some lateral forces on the car, such as taking it to the track, I'd strongly recommend against it... they tend to fail more than the stock ones.
Also, if cornering is your thing, make sure to get good quality rod ends... polyurethan is only good for straight line, since it causes bind when cornering.

Tell us your usage, from there, we can better give you an indication of spring rates, shocks that go with those spring rates, and sway bars to complement the package.

Apart from that, SFC are a great idea (even a rollbar), if you gonna increase the power, as well as a rear-end and brakes.
Power is nothing without control.

**Huskerz1** · 12-27-2006, 09:01 PM

I'm talking about 400+ rwhp. 450 at most. I will not be cornering hard on any twisty tracks. Basically just for street fun and occassional drag strip use. I've got almost all the power adders ready to go in and realize that I need to beef the suspension up to handle my new power. Everything is still stock. I just had some ideas in my head and was wondering what you all thought. I don't need to lower the car, I just thought it might look better.

**1fastcamarosss11** · 12-27-2006, 10:30 PM

lowering will look better, everything i have is adjustable. even the hals, and qa1's i recommend it all. i will have 500 plus to the wheels soon. so i'll see what a difference it is.