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Sub Frame Connectors for Verts?

This is a discussion on Sub Frame Connectors for Verts? within the Convertible forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have a 95 convertible TA. Does anyone know of sub frame connectors (bolt-in or weld-in) that definitely work for ...

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    Sub Frame Connectors for Verts?

    I have a 95 convertible TA. Does anyone know of sub frame connectors (bolt-in or weld-in) that definitely work for verts? Some sites mention their sub frame connectors are not for convertibles and others sites don't mention whether they work or not.

    And, has anyone installed them and found they improved chassis stiffness without creating any other issues?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    I have vert specific bolt-on ones from SLP, which I don't think they make anymore. Chassis rigidity is much improved. Others swear by weld-in's or welding in bolt-in's. I don't think any of the sponsors offer bolt ons' but if interested in bolt-ins shoot me a PM on another source.

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    BMR makes weld in a lot of sponsors carry them. I've heard they are good and I'm considering getting them myself. They are two point though and I'd prefer 3 pt connectors.

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    your parts guy!!! 1fastcamarosss11's Avatar
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    trans am 00 ws6
    1998 camaro ss vert

    slp weld ins work great.

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    On my previous vert, I had the BMR weld ins, they worked great.
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    Thanks guys. I'll touch base directly with BMR and SLP. From what I hear, despite some additional rigidity built into the vert from factory, sub-frames are a must.
    2000 WS6 Trans Am
    1995 Trans Am convertible

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    verts have frame reinforcement rails already built in them. My hawk runs mid 12s on bolt ons and drag radials, and I dont feel any body flex or have any signs off stress. If your going to run some serious hp then maybe, but if not I would use the money else where ported t/b, intake, etc. Just my opinion.

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    I run the BMR weld-in. They work great.

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    Hi Rare99Firehawk. Thanks for feedback.

    I'm not going to run much more than stock on this 1995 convertible (5.7litre) TA (I have my own WS6 with 400 RWP dyno'd for fun which I'll eventually add nitrous or a superscharger too). What is the general consensus with respect to sub-frame connectors? Do folks feel a difference in the body stiffness or not really that much?

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    The reinforced frame rails on verts do not make up for the ridgity lost by removing the top they are actually a joke. Subframe connectors will make a big difference. There may or may not be enough body flex to cause panels to move permanently but you can definitely feel the difference. This is my first vert and I can feel the difference from my ttop car. I'm getting weld ins before the year is over. Everyone i've talked to says it's a big difference.

    It doesn't matter how much HP you are trying to make you will notice a difference.

    To each his own but I would never run a car with drag radials into the 12s without subframe connectors.

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    Member Allen Wood's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    I had Kenny Brown sub frame connectors installed 7 years ago. I felt a difference in the parking lot leaving the shop. I have no rattles or squeeks in 50,000 miles. I strongly recommend the SFC that are tri-angulated(spelling ?).

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    I'll definitely be putting them in. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for all the feedback.

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    In your own opinion, what would be your reason for not running a vert on drag radials to hit mid 12 times? My hawk isn't a weekly drag racer, It's more for showing ,But if need be it will get the mid 12s every time, With 70,000 on the clock it still looks as good as the day I bought it and doesn't rattle or squeek.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rare99Firehawk View Post
    In your own opinion, what would be your reason for not running a vert on drag radials to hit mid 12 times? My hawk isn't a weekly drag racer, It's more for showing ,But if need be it will get the mid 12s every time, With 70,000 on the clock it still looks as good as the day I bought it and doesn't rattle or squeek.
    Like I said the reinforced frame rails are a joke. There really isn't much to them and verts are definitely less rigid then any ttop or hardtop car. Your drag radials and mods are most certainly putting more stress on your chassis. I would personally error on the side of caution and stiffen the chassis if it were my car. I'm a better safe then sorry guy but you may never have any issues at all. Have you ever had another lt1/ls1 fbody? I think you would notice a difference. I will be putting some BMRs on my car very soon definitely before the drag radials.

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Ordered BMR SFC's and a strut brace for the vert today. My car flops like a fish in the turns, so looking forward to this mod.

    There are many brands, but the only one that I could find specifically noted to work with the vert is BMR. All of the 3 point weld-in kits I found are not compatible, which is a bummer

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    Just worked under my wife convertible TA today (replacing the tranny mount). There is a cross (x) brace there that I don't recall my t-top TA having. Is this supposed to be the stock subframe assembly?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFalcons View Post
    Just worked under my wife convertible TA today (replacing the tranny mount). There is a cross (x) brace there that I don't recall my t-top TA having. Is this supposed to be the stock subframe assembly?
    Yes it's the extra bracing put in to help with flex after removing the top.

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    Is that stock cross-bracing taken out when BMR subframe SFC's are installed? I'm shopping for those and a strut bar in the next few days. Any suggestions where to get them cheap and sent to Canada?

    Thanx!

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    No the bracing stays intact. Nothing is removed when SFCs are installed. Don't know about a best place to get them. Most of our sponsors carry BMR stuff and have reasonable prices. You'll just have to find someone who knows what they are doing to weld them in.

  20. #20
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    which SFCs are better? The SLP ones or the BMR ones? The SLP ones look like they tie the front, back, and sides of the car together in one..the BMR ones just look like they tie the front and backs together on either side..

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