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This is a discussion on What cam? within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ...
09-12-2009, 06:27 AM #1
Going to be running a 383 bottom end and trickflow NA heads. I am looking for a good street motor here and not something that I will be running at the track. I need some cam sugestions.
Here is what my dads engine guy sent me about pistons that he would be useing if it helps. I have already told him to go with the 9.8 piston what ever that means.
(2) Options for Stroker pistons, 9.8 compression or 10.9
Brad who is the owner of the shop says that those published piston compressions by the OEM aren’t net numbers, pending on cam position etc….
The kit for $1345.00 uses SRJ pistons, forged dish design by JE pistons. The 10.9 is a flat top however is not as good a piston.
My guess would be to use the 9.8 plus the stroke will add compression.
Rotating 383 stroker kit -------------$1345.00
Freeze plugs---------------------------$ 25.00
Cleaning &Machining and brg caps. $337.00
Oil Pump and Gaskets $140.00
here are the head specs
Product Line: Trick Flow® GenX™ Fast as Cast Cylinder Heads for GM LT1
Part Type: Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head Style: Assembled
Cylinder Head Material: Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish: Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 54
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber: Yes
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 185cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 67cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner: No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner: No
Intake Port Location: Standard
Exhaust Port Shape: D-port
Exhaust Port Location: Standard
Intake Valves Included: Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included: Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included: Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in): 0.600 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.300 in.
Damper Spring Included: Yes
Retainers Included: Yes
Retainer Material: Steel
Locks Included: Yes
Lock Style: 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included: Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style: Viton® fluoroelastomer
Rocker Arm Studs Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size: 3/8 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style: Centerbolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled: Yes
Valve Guides Included: Yes
Valve Guide Material: Bronze
Valve Seats Machined: Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style: 3-angle
Valve Seat Material: Ductile iron
Steam Holes Drilled: No
Oiling Style: Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring: No
Heat Crossover: No
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Cylinder Heads, GenX™ Street/Strip, Aluminum, Assembled, 54cc Chamber, 185cc Intake, Chevy, 5.7L, LT1, Pair
OK guys let me know what my cam options are.
09-12-2009, 12:42 PM #2
If the motor is always going to be normally aspirated, then you want a static compression ratio in the mid to upper 10s. BTW it is SRP pistons, not SRJ. And who says the flattop isnt as good of a piston? Why not? Assuming same brand and materials, the dished piston if anything will have a thinner crown on it than a flattop. As far as cams go, contact trick flow, and/or some of the popular LT1 head porting folks. They're going to have the most experience with what does and doesnt work well with what you're trying to do. And if they know what they're doing, they'll ask you questions about the rest of your setup including intake manifold, exhaust, motor, etc. And where do you want your power band, low end torquer or something that makes power up high to 6500rpm.
09-12-2009, 08:12 PM #3
Uhg I am just about over this right now. I know what I want but I can't tell if I'm getting it. I gave this project to my father because I can't trust people around me in tampa to do engine work on this thing. I have had 3 bad experiances so far and I thought since this guy rebuilt my fathers hendrik race engine, he might be capible of doing it but they are up in Georgia and I'm down in Florida. I can't tell if this is my father getting in the way or another bumb engine builder. I have told my father I need 10 to 11 on the compression to give this this a chance to make power. I did not want to go NOS or BOOST. I just wanted a good NA motor but since the stock crank, and rods were F'd up in this thing, and I needed a crank I just figured a stroker kit was the common since thing to do. I don't know. I guess if it comes out low on compression I could always change the head I was going to go with and do a low boost motor with a supercharger. It's not forged so I don't know how far I could even go with that. Looks like it is time to have another chat with dear old dad who thinks his shit dosn't stink when it comes to this shit.
09-13-2009, 12:46 AM #4
Well, keep in mind when talking compression ratio there is a difference between static and dynamic. There are calculators out there on the web to help you figure it out. Static on a stock LT1 is 10.5, so for NA use, there's really no reason to go below that, again talking static. You just need to talk to the right people about this.
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