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What about this set up?

This is a discussion on What about this set up? within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by N20LT4 You can expect about 3 tenths/3mph difference on average between the two, though it varies (ofcourse) ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N20LT4 View Post
    You can expect about 3 tenths/3mph difference on average between the two, though it varies (ofcourse) depending on the car. Nonetheless, an LT1 in good health needs only bolt-ons to outrun an LS1.
    Umm, not really. I have bolt ons (not quite all of them, but most) and I'm sitting at 309rwhp/338rwtq. Ls1s that dyno higher than that right out of the box arent uncommon. I might be a good match for those cars, but by no means will I outrun them, at least not by alot. Not many bolt on cars with over 309rwhp too. If I did an electric WP, roller rockers, and perhaps a TB, I could mabe pick it up to 320 or so rwhp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0THIS View Post
    Umm, not really. I have bolt ons (not quite all of them, but most) and I'm sitting at 309rwhp/338rwtq. Ls1s that dyno higher than that right out of the box arent uncommon. I might be a good match for those cars, but by no means will I outrun them, at least not by alot. Not many bolt on cars with over 309rwhp too. If I did an electric WP, roller rockers, and perhaps a TB, I could mabe pick it up to 320 or so rwhp.
    It is not common to see LS1's F-bodies dyno that high out of the box. Yes it does happen, but by far not commonly. Most LS1's will average 280-290 ish, though most guys will tell you their car dyno'd 320 or whatever. I'm very close to the guys @ Force Fed Performance here in Sacramento (ForceFedPeformance.com) and they do a lot of LS1's, and majority of the pulls i've seen were around that range. My '93 has bested 13.13@107.4 off the bottle with a netted 316rwhp with full bolt-ons, and I have burned stock LS1's to the point to where I won't even race a stock one anymore, so I don't see why your not having the same luck.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N20LT4 View Post
    and I have burned stock LS1's to the point to where I won't even race a stock one anymore, so I don't see why your not having the same luck.

    Because I've raced guys that know how to drive?


    Kind of simple math. If you race one with the same power output, you shouldnt burn him by any means, unless he cant drive. I've never seen an LS1 dyno under 290rwhp, and rarely read about one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0THIS View Post
    Because I've raced guys that know how to drive?


    Kind of simple math. If you race one with the same power output, you shouldnt burn him by any means, unless he cant drive. I've never seen an LS1 dyno under 290rwhp, and rarely read about one.
    O.K. - the initial subject was "it takes only bolt-ons to outrun a stock LS1" Keyword: stock. My car makes 316rwhp - along with 3.73 gears, Yank "SS" 3200 stall, and Trans-Go shift kit, which all qualify as "bolt-ons". Many LS1 F-bods i've seen - including a couple on this very site - have dyno'd less than 290rwhp. That's quite normal, and very respectable at the same time. Once again i've bested 13.1@107, while most LS1's i've raced @ the strip have clocked 13.7-13.4@103-105 in completely stock form. I've raced a couple that have equalled my trap of 107, and even a '02 WS6 that trapped 108 bone-stock honestly, but his e.t. was 13.4, with my bolt-ons once again giving me the advantage. And for the record this isn't the first time i've ran LS1's with just bolt-ons. The silver SS in my sig went 13.5@105.1 with absolutely nothing - completely stock - similar to Hot Rod Magazine's (2/96) 13.55@104.8 Road Test.
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    I should expect nothing less from all of those drivetrain mods, which most bolt on cars dont have. I have a stock drivetrain and gears, and have still managed a 13.2@107+ in my bolt on car (at sea level, 6 spd., street tires, stock rear gears). Nonetheless, most street races will just be roll ons, where 99% of bolt on LT1 cars will get beaten, especially at higher speeds. There's always a fluke here and there, but I'm still telling him what the truth will be 99% of the time. As for the SS in your sig... well, that trap would indicate some 30 more horsepower than even some of the healthiest LT1s floating around. Kind of hard to swallow, even assuming a terrific DA.

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    So LT1s dont do that good top end?

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    I'm assuming your not very familiar with the LT1 SS, but most have not had the privelage to either own or drive one. Totally different animal. Beefed up suspension right off the showroom, and a "REAL" ram-air setup that improves top end over a standard Z28 drastically. Look at what other guys are getting in them, and you might rethink your belief. Your E.T. is rather hard for me to swallow. Not saying it can't be done, but in an LT1 M6 with street tires??? Gulp. Trust me 5-0, I have plenty of experience in this - over 10 years - have seen many great drivers (me being one myself), and owned several LT1's, and it does NOT take more than bolt-ons on an LT1 to outrun LS - period. Simply look @ your claimed trap of 107. While some do, most guys with LS1's (and a few here on LS1.com) don't trap that high. Some guys trap as low as 103 in an M6. So 99% is a totally unrealistic # anyways. I've see this example to many times to have the potential of the LT1 doubted. Maybe their are a parade of slow bolt-on LT1's were your @, but in my neck of the woods the bolt-on LT most likely becomes the victor.

    If found this link to several road tests for both '96-'97 SS models:
    http://www.cobranet.com/roadtest.htm
    Last edited by N20LT4; 08-16-2007 at 10:03 AM. Reason: insert link

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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    So LT1s dont do that good top end?
    Depending on the setup, they do great. An LT1 is nothing to be worrisome over. If you want a car that will easily gain gobs of horsepower emissions legal with just bolt-ons and a cam, definitely go LS1. If your looking to build a serious Bottom End - H/C/I setup, and LT1 is definitely a great bang for your buck.

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    The SS' are special, but they're not that special. In actuality, the ram air is a gimmick, and has been proven inneffective. First off, if you know anything about aerodynamics, you'll know that the scoop is in the wrong location. It is way too close to the hood. Secondly, it will never ever create positive manifold pressure, and in fact you wont even see a difference in manifold vacuum until speeds nearing are 200mph or more. Yes I've driven an LT1 SS. Doubt my ET all you want. Just goes to show what a decent track and driver are good for. I'm done with this discussion

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    +1 ^^^^....the ram air on the SS is pretty innefective...like 5.0THIS said, it is too close to the hood...the only way it would be effective in that position would be if it sits really high off the hood...hence the reason why the funny cars have them sit that high off the hood.

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    Yea I dont know much about the LT1 at all, I have a pretty good knowledge on the LS1 but I hear that they are almost completely different in ways. I have been longing for an LS1 for a few months now but I have come across an 97 trans am with t-tops, it has a stall converter, 3.73 gears, shift kit, intake, cowl hood, y pipe with a cut out, and a tune. So im trying to get familer with it as much as i can before I actually get it. With that set up, is it still able to have good top end?

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    Sounds like a good buy. The stall, 3.73s and shift kit are definitely going to add zest, and intake and cutout are proven upgrades. Top end is nothing to worry about - trust me. Make sure you check over it (the entire car,not just motor) throroughly before you make your purchase.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    Yea I dont know much about the LT1 at all, I have a pretty good knowledge on the LS1 but I hear that they are almost completely different in ways. I have been longing for an LS1 for a few months now but I have come across an 97 trans am with t-tops, it has a stall converter, 3.73 gears, shift kit, intake, cowl hood, y pipe with a cut out, and a tune. So im trying to get familer with it as much as i can before I actually get it. With that set up, is it still able to have good top end?
    Have your mechanic look it over before you buy it, if its a local purchase.

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    Here is the weird thing, it was going to be a local purchase but that guy screwed me over and traded it with this guy in NC for a sting ray, now the guy up in NC might want to sell it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    Here is the weird thing, it was going to be a local purchase but that guy screwed me over and traded it with this guy in NC for a sting ray, now the guy up in NC might want to sell it.
    Hmmm, sounds a little fishy. Why would he turn around and sell a car he just bought???

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    Sounds like he is just trying to make some quick money by buying low and selling high.

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    He didnt pay anything for it they did a straight trade, a modded LT1 97 trans am for a stock 79 stingray

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