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Trickflow heads on an LT1

This is a discussion on Trickflow heads on an LT1 within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Ok so I have looked at some peoples claim of HP and tQ numbers on LT1's that are stock stroke ...

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Trickflow heads on an LT1

    Ok so I have looked at some peoples claim of HP and tQ numbers on LT1's that are stock stroke length v's a 383 or more stroke length. What is the advantage?
    Here is what I was planning on doing. I have a complete spare LT1 that I want to build. I was planning on not having to change the crank and using either the stock rods or going with an aftermaket rod, new pistons, rings, and a cam good from 2000 to 6000. I want to put at least 400 hp to the ground on an A4 Camaro. 500 would be goal power. Needs to be ok for Daily Driver even though it isn't a DD.

    Has anyone used the LT1 trickflow heads on a stock stroke and what kind of numbers did you put down?

    Also has anyone used LT1 trickflow heads on a 383 and what kind of number did you put down.

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    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    The 383 would give you more torque for sure. Were you going to bore the block?

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    I haven't looked at the cylinders walls for wear yet. The block is going to an engine shop to get check to make sure it wont need an align hone so it will probably be bored .030. I was just wondering if it is going to be worth buying a rotating assemble for a 383 with the trickflow heads? am I going to gain that much more V's a 350 stroke?

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    You can easily get 400rwhp with the stock stroke. The 383 will get you some low end torque. Your power goals arent too lofty, in fact I've seen 450rwhp with a stock bottom end. DO NOT reuse the stock rods. With the heads/cam you will have, you'll be revving over 6000rpm on the top end, so get a decent rod (manley, lunati, scat, crower, oliver etc).

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    Kenne-Bell Killer Cayenne97's Avatar
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    The difference between going with a stock stroke 350 or 355 versus a 383 is basically the powerband. A 383 will typically have a more narrow band and make more torque at lower speeds, where a 355 can make the same power but take longer to do it (higher rpm's), typically producing less torque down low. In a nutshell. It depends on what you wan't. I prefer 355's because of the high revs. The one in my '97 has a 7000-rpm redline.

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    Member side2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne97 View Post
    The difference between going with a stock stroke 350 or 355 versus a 383 is basically the powerband. A 383 will typically have a more narrow band and make more torque at lower speeds, where a 355 can make the same power but take longer to do it (higher rpm's), typically producing less torque down low. In a nutshell. It depends on what you wan't. I prefer 355's because of the high revs. The one in my '97 has a 7000-rpm redline.
    i know you know this, but a big cube LT will spin 7000 w/ a top end to support it, while having a much better torque curve than a 355.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    i know you know this, but a big cube LT will spin 7000 w/ a top end to support it, while having a much better torque curve than a 355.


    The shorter the stroke, the quicker the motor will rev, and the quicker you will get to (and through) the powerband. It has its advantages for some... And some people may just prefer that for a powerband.


    If I was building a turbo motor, it would definitely be stock stroke. Hell I would consider shortening the stroke before lengthening it. With a turbo (or supercharger for that matter), torque will be in abundance anyway, so the quicker I can get the motor to spin up, the better.

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    Kenne-Bell Killer Cayenne97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    i know you know this, but a big cube LT will spin 7000 w/ a top end to support it, while having a much better torque curve than a 355.
    You are correct. You can get a big-cubed motor to spin high. BUT, what 5.0 says is true as well. A stock stroke will rev through the band quicker.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0THIS View Post
    The shorter the stroke, the quicker the motor will rev, and the quicker you will get to (and through) the powerband. It has its advantages for some... And some people may just prefer that for a powerband.


    If I was building a turbo motor, it would definitely be stock stroke. Hell I would consider shortening the stroke before lengthening it. With a turbo (or supercharger for that matter), torque will be in abundance anyway, so the quicker I can get the motor to spin up, the better.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Thats more along the line of what I am looking for is a quick rev engine. I am not going to be at a drag strip that much at all. All we have near us is an 1/8. So from what you all are telling me is i can keep the stock crank and just replace the rods and pistons, use a good cam with the trickflow heads, tune it and I should be in the 450 to 500 rwhp range. thanks for the info.
    Now lets say that down the road I do want to put a supercharger on this engine is there anything I would need to change or build in to this build?
    would I need to look at changing the crank when or if I ever decide to put an SC on it? And what about pistons? I see what your saying 5.0 about a shorter stroke but I have seen that people like to lower the compression ratio as well on turbo and SC engines. Or am I going to have to change too much, because cam selection for SC V's NA is different? thanks again guys.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    If adding a blower, your biggest concern would be compression ratio. Even if a cam isnt optomized for a blower, it will typically work with minimal power loss. Compression though is much more important. Yes you would want to change pistons. And honestly, once oyu start getting into built AND blown motors you're talking about 500+ rwhp. At that point you'll have so much into it that I'd have a forged crank just because. You dont want the stock crank to be the weak link. My advice to you would be spend the money up front on a good forged crank. You can spend 500-750 and get yourself a nice piece.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Yea thats what I was thinking. Well am I still gona be good on the stock crank if I don't but a blower on it or am I at a point where it's better safe than sorry because I may end up putting 50k plus on this motor over the next 10 years and even if I don't ever do a blower on it I need it to be solid for street and abuse.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    by the way thanks for the tips 5.0THIS.

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    go forged. you will pay for machining to reuse the stock crank anyway, along with the new pistons/rods. for a couple/few hundred dollars on top of the total bill to refurbish, you can just buy a forged crank. plus, you dont wanna have to go back in there later on if you slap on a power adder.

    on the other hand, if you're sure you wont be twistin above 6500 and/or puttin a power adder on, a stock crank will give you that 50+ thousand mile life. theoretically, a crank outlive everything else in motor. (john madden) it's usually too much power/something else breaking that causes cranks to fail, so as long as you stay within it's limits it should not be in question.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Well I have no idea what cam is going to work the best with that head so. I can't tell you where it's going to spin yet but I will call trick flow tomorrow and get a better idea of what I am going to be looking at. The trick flow gen X heads for an LT1 are 1300 complete at summit online and my dad lives in Atlanta and stopped by the store and they told him $1100 at the counter. Are there any other heads I should look at without having to spend $2k+ like on the AFRís?
    Also what cranks should I be looking at (brands)?
    and are they specific to an LT1 or is it just an internally balanced crank I need to look for?

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Never mind I must have gotten F'd up with the price of the AFR heads, there not to bad around 1500.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    So new question Trickflows GenX's 195's or AFR 180's or 195's for a 355

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    Member side2000's Avatar
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    195's. i'm not a fan of trickflow, but they are both good heads. the AFR's only offer their 195's as LT4 heads, so you'd have to buy an LT4 manifold also. thats a lotta extra money vs the trickflow 195's that are already hundreds of dollars cheaper. . . . .the 180 afr's outflow the trickflow 195's as they come, out of the box. . .but are still four hund some dollars more. the 180 AFR's are LT1 style so another manifold would not have to be purchased.

    bottom line: the AFR's are better heads/outflow the trickflow heads, but for the extra money not worth it unless you got some deep pockets or are gonna utilize the extra potential with a big"ger" cam.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Any crankshaft you get will need some work out of the box, particularly a good balance. None of them are that great out of the box. I have a scat forged crank in one of my racing engines, and it is a decent fairly cheap piece. Callies makes nice cranks, but they're pricey. You need a crank that's for a one piece rear main seal.

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    Senior Member t-rock's Avatar
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    i love this thread this is what this web site is all about. very good info you guys are giving.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Cool thanks for the info guys. Where should I be looking for these cranks? dose summit have them or jegs or is there another place I should check out?

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