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Security Light Issues

This is a discussion on Security Light Issues within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Car started and drove fine one night. A couple days later, I tried to start it and nothing. The security ...

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Security Light Issues

    Car started and drove fine one night. A couple days later, I tried to start it and nothing. The security light started blinking and all the lights and stuff came on, buit it didn't even try to start. Tried a different key, cleaned both keys and tried them, nothing. I even tested the resistence chips and they both were the optimim value. Pulled the kick panel to reveal a crap-load of wires (just had an aftermarket alarm installed about 2 weeks prior, but don't think its the cause) but couldn't get around them all. But I noticed that there was a clicking sound coming from under the column somewhere. Couldn't find where it was coming from though. I think its by the firewall near the center of the console. What could it be? Its not the starter, I don't think its even getting a signal.

    I tried testing the ignition lock cylinder wires but I'm not sure I found them, too many wires. Anyone have any other suggestions? I would try to bypass it, but I want to make sure that its the problem first.

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    Member Chad97z's Avatar
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    did you get it working yet? All I have found is this: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5082425AAAgCUh basically reiterates what you did.

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    Does the alarm have a starter kill?

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    Member Chad97z's Avatar
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    if the security light is coming on, it wouldnt be the after market alarm, most likely. Because the security light is factory equipment. Its a different system.

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    Actually that depends on what the particular system ties into. Also, is this alarm also a remote start system?

    It's most common for the wires in the ingition switch to break. Easiest way to know is to buy a resistor of the appropriate value for a dollar and insert it into the plug under the dash and see if it starts

  6. #6
    Had that problem for almost 3 years, happened on colder days, colder the worse the problem.

    Ended up being a stuck relay in the body control modual, its behind the glovebox... a real bitch to get out but worth checkin out. pull the bottom cover out and you can reach it by hand, stick your hand on it, you should be able to feel the ticking on the body control module.

    It controls alot of things in the car including the security light and the systems that connect to it to make it work.

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Oh, thanks guys. I forgot about this thread.
    Yeah, I got it working. It was the VATS system. I got a plug-and-play cable and plugged it in and bypassed the damn thing. Now it works like a charm. My guess is that the ignition lock cylinder wore out and couldn't read the key properly anymore. But fixed that quick.

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    Member Chad97z's Avatar
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    what cable? bypassed it? sounds like a security breech

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    Just like I mentioned, where the plug is under the dash. It now thinks that there is always a key of the appropriate resistance in the ignition. Mine is bypassed for remote start

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Here's the cable that I bought to bypass it:
    http://www.ecklerscamaro.com/product...dept%5Fid=1620

    And here's the old-school (cheaper) way to bypass it:
    How to Bypass your VATS

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