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Plugs and wire change HELP!!!

This is a discussion on Plugs and wire change HELP!!! within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have a 96 Trans Am LT1 6 speed , and in a couple of days i will be doing ...

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    Import Killer camarostripes96's Avatar
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    Question Plugs and wire change HELP!!!

    I have a 96 Trans Am LT1 6 speed , and in a couple of days i will be doing my first plugs and wire change. I need some info on the easiest way to do it on each plug if possible, i have been told its easy and i have been told is very difficult! I need some help from yall on how to do it . And also what are some good plugs and wires for my ride?
    thanks

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    Thunder racing sells a kit that allows you to take the wires over the valve cover, it's a little easeir than doing it the stock way. If not...just doing it is the best way to get familiar with the procedure, when you take the stuff out you'll get an idea of how it's set up. Or you could go LTCC like me. Then it's REAL easy.


    P

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    I don't think the placement of the optispark will allow for routing on the valve covers, unless you have extremely long wires.

    As far as plug access. Driver's side is the easiest. So you could do that side first and get the hang of it, or you could do the passenger side first, and once you FINALLY get that side done, the driver's side is cake.

    I got to all the driver's side plugs from under the car. Trying to see around the manifolds is a bitch though. You might as well put some longtube headers on if you are going to change plugs and wires. Routing wires from the opti to driver's side is easy too.

    I suggest doing one plug and one wire at a time so you don't have to stress on plugging everything back into the same spot. But they do have diagrams on the wiring on the net.

    Like I said, passenger side is a bitch. There's hardly any room to work on that side. I got the #2 cylinder from the top and the rest from the bottom. I removed the starter though so I could fit my arms up there. The wiring for that side sucks too. Unless you feel like removing the water pump.
    Good Luck.

    Oh yeah, I used NGK TR55 plugs and MSD 8.5mm wires. Work great, even after header install. I think the MSD boots are made for higher temps than stock. Haven't burned through anything yet.
    But I also used a few zip ties along the way.

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    Import Killer camarostripes96's Avatar
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    is there any way to do that without taking that stuff off or just impossible? why would they make a car so hard to do, thats just crazy!! anyways are regular black headers good at all? why do everyone go with ceramic coated headers? Whats so bad about them?
    thanks

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Yeah, when I started doing work on my car, I hated GM for how they designed these cars. Most cars have tear-away wheel wells do you can access shit from the side of the car, but the f-bods don't. If they did, some stuff would be much easier.
    As far as removing the water pump, I didn't and you don't have to. But you do have to remove it if you want to change the optispark.

    As far as coated vs non-coated or painted headers. The problem with the non-coated painted headers is that the paint burns off quickly due to the heat. Then they start to rust after about a month. They are cheap but not worth it in the long run. Sure, the coated are more expensive but are worth it. They flow better due to the coating (if inside and out) and retain heat better so your engine compartment doesn't suck up so much heat. Plus the coated are shinier.

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    Import Killer camarostripes96's Avatar
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    do u know where i can get some cheap ceramic coated headers, and will i need to get a certain kind of gasket for the headers?
    also whats better cats or no cats?

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    I just installed Pacesetter's Coated Longtube Headers. They are great for the price and the cheapest out there. Most people that you'll talk to have them. http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=pslt1ch|0
    The Pacesetter kit comes with gaskets, but don't use them. They are made from paper and will burn up in about a month. Just got metal ones. OEM gaskets will work fine.
    As far as cats vs. no cats...the Pacesetter y-pipe is only an off-road y-pipe. So, if you have emissions and need a cat, you can just have a muffler shop weld on up when you're done.
    But if you don't need one, a high-flow cat vs. straight pipe, there is really no difference in flow at all. Just make sure you get a high-flow honeycomb cat and your set.

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