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new to lt1

This is a discussion on new to lt1 within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; just got 95 lt1 what are the best bolt ons whats the best headers long tube and off road pipe ...

  1. #1
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    new to lt1

    just got 95 lt1 what are the best bolt ons whats the best headers long tube and off road pipe are these motors worth investing in or are ls1 the way to go whats the best supercharger im tired of loosing to my neighbors 01 mustang

  2. #2
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    95 Z28

    You really shouldnt lose badly to a 01 GT. Should be a close race, he might inch you. Most long tube headers provide similar gains, and over 300rwhp can be achieved with bolt ons. You can go as far as you want to with these motors when you start tearing into them. As for a blower, I would go towards Vortec or ATI, but be careful putting a blower on a stock LT1. With their high compression and hypercraptastic pistons, they can let go much above 6 psi, and even at 6 psi.

    As for the LS1 vs LT1 thing... been beaten to death but... bolt on for bolt on the LS1 will always be ahead due to the superior cylinder head and intake design. If you only intend on bolt ons, an LS1 is the clearly better choice. Once you open up an LT1 though, you can get pretty wild with them.

  3. #3
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Black With T-Tops
    96 Z28 M6

    Bolt on Lt1s should have no problem taking out an 01 Mustang GT unless it is highly modified.

  4. #4
    Powerstrokin LT1 > LS1's Avatar
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    lpp headers. they are race headers with no air/egr. they come shipped with y-pipe for $550.

    they are stepped, stainless, and have some really nice merge collectors. i have aset on my car. they make more power then almsot any other lt1 header, and are made with great quality.

  5. #5
    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    You should be beating them mostly stock honestly........

  6. #6
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Is it an auto or a stick? If it's an auto, change the converter to like 2300 to 2600 stall and go from a dig every time you will blow his doors off in the first 60 feet.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Sleeper101's Avatar
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    Vette,240sx,ls1 camaro

    As stated above you can go as far with a Lt1 as your wallet allows. I personally Just built a 383 Lt1 Stroker for my buddy.( Still waiting on the dyno results) We spent about 6k on the build.

    It has a Eagle forged Stroked crank, Eagle rods, race bearings, KB Pistons, Chromoly rings, Lt4 Hot cam kit with the GM roller Rockers. ( Altho the valve springs we changed, It did not come with a strong enough spring for what they were rating out cam for) 219*/.525 Lift, Stock Heads Ported with 2.05 valves and flowed 290 on the bench, Intake Port matched, 36lb accel injectors, 58mm Throttle body, Moroso cold air intake, With pacesetter Long tube headers with y-pipe and Magnaflow exhaust, Brand new Opti Spark, and The transmission was Race built.

    The car made 340whp the first trip on a dynojet, But the Optispark was misfiring, we had 2 plug wires arching, and it was way rich. So we are expecting about 400 at the wheels after final tune. Its a beast for sure!! That Stroker makes Tons of tq. But the Lt1's can be built Strong.

  8. #8
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    the convert mustang has bolt ons and 410 gears auto it runs 14.0 i have a 6 speed all stock ecept hypertec programer i could only muster 14.7 60 were 2.3 spinning im familar with racing have a 10 sec chevelle. will 28 10.5 slicks destroy the rear end they fit im trying to get it into the 12s not really a drag car build but i have a top speed goal of 180mph just wana do good bolt ons that will eventely work with a supercharger and a 383 build.the car runs good no problems but seems lazy will the hot cam be good with a supercharger for now looking to do headers and 58mm throtle body free mods and programer

  9. #9
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    SOM
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    Plus 1 ^. with a worked set of AFR heads and aftermarket intake the sky is the limit. As for as I'm concerned it's still an LT1 as long as it retains the LT1 short block!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Sleeper101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotSOMturbos View Post
    Plus 1 ^. with a worked set of AFR heads and aftermarket intake the sky is the limit. As for as I'm concerned it's still an LT1 as long as it retains the LT1 short block!
    Well we got word today the car made 380whp but lost oil pressure. So now I gotta figure out if it blew an oil galley plug or the check valve in the oil pump stuck.

  11. #11
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    auto convert bolt ons and 4.10 gears no converter dam ford

  12. #12
    Senior Member Sleeper101's Avatar
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    You must not know how to drive. I have never seen a mild bolt on Mustang whoop an lt1. Without internal mods or spray.

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    to make it worse the stang is yellow no i was shifting at 5800 and could only muster a 14.7 with 2.2 sixty the mustang was 14.10 with 2.1 sixty it gets worse i traded my 10 sec chevelle for a 95 lt1 ok the clutch is soft so going for headers and clutch dont want gears because planing to 383 supercharge over the winter

  14. #14
    Member WICKED LS1's Avatar
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    How deep is your wallet? As previously stated, you can go pretty wild with an LT1. I have had 2 LS1's and have gotten rid of both and am sticking with my LT1. Why? Cause for an LT1, I think mine is a pretty wild ride. I've outrun a bunch of LS1's around here, but then again, I'm not exactly anywhere near stock. And I think it's cool just to be different and not have an LS1 like the rest of the crowd.
    1997 30th Anniversary Camaro SS
    Forged 383 LT1, Vortech T-Trim with aftercooler, Aeromotive A1000, Strange 12 bolt, chromemoly DS, MSD Digital 7, MSD Opti, HVC coil, McLeod twin disk, the list goes on

    2000 Pontiac Trans Am A4
    Magnaflow exhaust with quad tips

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    How do you like your mccleod twin disk? just ordered one

  16. #16
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    did long tube hraders free mods and off road pipe got 13.89 101 mph on street tires with 2.1 60

  17. #17
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Ah you should be able to put that thing in the low 13's. Did you get a tune done after the LT headers? I know it's a 6 speed but what gears are in the rear. It should have 3.42's out back and it sounds like your running with 2.73's

  18. #18
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    no tune hypertech programer 160 stat im pretty sure the car has 342 i shifted at 6000 and went threw the traps at 6400 in third maybe the clutch is sliping of the line i let it out slow so it would't spin in 6 gear going 70 at 1800 rpm is there a code mon the diff

  19. #19
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Not sure about a code on the diff. There is one in the car but if someone swapped it then it would not matter. You can jack the car up and put a peice of tape on the drive shaft and the rear tire. Put the car in neutral and have someone help you turn the rear tires at the same pace. I think it was count the number of revs the drive shaft makes to one full rotation of the tire or the other way around and that will give you an idea. If it makes only 2 and 3/4 it's a 2.73 if it makes about 3 and 1/2 it's 3.42. Any way I think you count drive shaft turn and turn rotate the tire once to get the rear gear ratio.

  20. #20
    Member tnthub's Avatar
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    Actual Et will vary significantly based on air conditions and track elevation.

    That said, my 1994 consistently ran 13.5 to 13.6 at 100-101 with cheap shorty edelbrock 1 5/8 headers, Moroso cold air induction, a short throw shifter, and a set of drag radials. Those simple and inexpensive modifications also improved fuel economy if I drove like granny on the street. I tried the hypertech and basically the power tuning slowed me down so I just removed the rev limiter until I decided to go all out and get a real tune.

    Adding a cat back later did not provide any oncrease in performance but it did make the sound much better. I researched high flow cats but the stock cat actually flowed better than the high flow ones I looked at.

    You need to learn how to read a launch pad and practice launching and shifting. MPH is about power. ET is about shifting. You should be walking all over a 14 second Mustang.

    If you add much power you will need to factor a 12 bolt or 9 inch into your budget.

    There is no substitute for good tires in regards to traction.

    As far as shift points, unless you do some valve work your optimal shift points will be between 5800-6000 rpm. Any higher and you will be slowing down and beating on the engine. Most races are won within the first three shifts anyway. If you are not under a 1.9 sixty foot time that is the area in which you need to focus.
    Last edited by tnthub; 08-25-2009 at 08:43 AM.

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