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Need help picking the right parts for performance

This is a discussion on Need help picking the right parts for performance within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; id love to have 96 impala but i just dont see the purpose of modding a 200k mile LT1...

  1. #21
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    id love to have 96 impala but i just dont see the purpose of modding a 200k mile LT1

  2. #22
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    id love to have 96 impala but i just dont see the purpose of modding a 200k mile LT1

    Which makes me wonder why you're even in this thread... or the LT1 section for that matter. I think we're done hearing from you in this thread.

  3. #23
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    If you can check the vin on the block first to see what you have. Also have some tests done to the engine to see what shape it is in. A leakdown and compression test will give you some insight to what kind of shape the engine is in.

  4. #24
    Hi to all and thanks for all the responses because Iíve posted this in quite a few LT1 type forums but this has some good info.

    I know I have the big LT1 in the car because I called the dealer when changing the rear end and they gave me the specs and I was just wondering if the engine itself had matching vin numbers to the car to determine if it had been changed to the lower mile engine.

    Responses from the other forums are saying that the rear end and transmission will not hold up with more than 300hp especially if I run 22Ē wheels and also the suspension will not hold up. If that is true then should I just put new headers, cam & maybe heads and a tune & that will keep me in that 300-330hp range to be safe?

    I know in most application when building a car with a lot of HP you need to build up all the weak links to be safe & I know this because Iíve owned a 1994 Mustang GT 5.0 that I completely customized the body, lights, wheels etc that was all done classy not tacky & I did the 3:73 gears, Bassani X pipe & Headers, Side Exhaust, Performance Automatic Transmission, Stall Convertor, Cold Air Intake, Tune and since I never built the engine up I was never happy with the performance & as time went by the car started to have many problems even though it had low miles & I babied it and then I was just turned off to pour any more money in it but thatís a Ford for you I guess.

    I tend to customize my cars like Chip Foose in regards to taste not as well and with as much money (thatís just respect for him and Iím not trying to say Iím the shit when it comes to customizing cars) but before I knew of him are styles were similar for example Eleanor from gone in 60 Seconds looked just like a 67 version of my Mustang & I customized it a few years before it came out & Iím only mentioning this because I want to give a example on how I want the car to turn out in regards to performance & looks best of both worlds not all bling with no bite sort of how my Mustang was but with Chip heís obviously a car building legend that has the money to build all the rest of the stuff up so he can run something like 22Ē wheels with performance with no problems I just want a poor manís version & I donít want that drag racing look with fat racing tires etc if thatís what needs to be done with that 400+ power.

    So all in all my question is what should I do to keep this car a street custom with 22Ē wheels with enough horsepower to keep me happy over what I had in the Mustang which could have been maybe 245-255hp and be safe in regards to some of the factory components?

  5. #25
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    full exhaust only would put you in the 300-330 range. . .depending on what you choose, heads and cam would put you 400+ horse easy.

  6. #26
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    I dont know why they say the rear and suspension wont hold up. The caprices are fairly heavy duty, remember they did use them for police and taxi's. The rear is better than that in the f-body. The one thing you might want to beef up is suspension bushings. To make it handle a little better you could upgrade control arms too. With 22's you would definetly want some better brakes. If it is just going to be a cruiser a cam and some bolt ons will make you happy.

  7. #27
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    Yeah those guys are feeding you lies. The 8.5 is infact stronger than the F-body rear and will hold much more than 300hp.

  8. #28

    Cayenne97

    So what do you suggest I do and how much horsepower to be at with 22Ē wheels?

    I seem to be getting many opinions but they are totally different from each other and now Iím a little confused of where to be at with max HP with the stock components and 22Ē wheels.

    This is from the other forum

    If you're going for 400 - 500 HP, you NEED to rebuild the engine, and consider installing 4-bolt mains. Machine work and fresh bearings now are cheaper than a new crank, rods and/or block later.

    Oh, and 22" wheels + 500 hp = axle failure on these cars. Not to mention, you'll smoke your transmission in short order with that much HP, no matter what wheels and rear gears. The stock components will only hold up to about 300 hp in these cars not to mention the aesthetic failure.

  9. #29
    Kenne-Bell Killer Cayenne97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lt1impalass View Post
    So what do you suggest I do and how much horsepower to be at with 22Ē wheels?

    I seem to be getting many opinions but they are totally different from each other and now Iím a little confused of where to be at with max HP with the stock components and 22Ē wheels.
    Don't worry too much about the wheels. It's not going to be that much of a factor for what you are trying to do, which doesn't include making a career out of drag racing your B-Body. Even then there's slicks + skinnies. So don't fret. There are plenty of guys at the track now days running 20 inches + on their hot rods!

    Quote Originally Posted by lt1impalass View Post
    This is from the other forum

    If you're going for 400 - 500 HP, you NEED to rebuild the engine, and consider installing 4-bolt main caps. Machine work and fresh bearings now are cheaper than a new crank, rods and/or block later.
    I don't know why they would recommend you tear down the engine TWICE when you already told them your looking to make as much as 500hp. Go with forged crank/rods/pistons now, along with 4-bolt mains.

    Quote Originally Posted by lt1impalass View Post
    Oh, and 22" wheels + 500 hp = axle failure on these cars. Not to mention, you'll smoke your transmission in short order with that much HP, no matter what wheels and rear gears. The stock components will only hold up to about 300 hp in these cars not to mention the aesthetic failure.
    Yes you will need a beefier rear and tranny for this setup. The stock 4L60 will fry way before you reach 500 hp. Contact Performabuilt (who are sponsors on this site) as I heard they build solid A4's. My nack has always been the M6 so I do not have first hand experience with them but i've heard their trannies are solid.

    Not to brag, but i've been tinkering with LT1's for 11 years now, since the age of 16. Hope my info helps!

  10. #30
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    Wow, you've been getting some "interesting" information from other boards...

  11. #31
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    haha i think he musta got that from a mustang/ricer forum. i terrorize my f-body rear religiously, and i have good axles w/ stock diff. if you plan on an upgrade anyway, i'd say just terrorize yours til it breaks you might get away with it for a long time. if you're not launchin it regularly you can most likely get some good life out of it.

    -cayenne your ws6 is sick. first time i've seen it. and while we are braggin, my first car was '95 LT 6 speed z that i tore down in '97.

  12. #32
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    You need to decide what hp/tq numbers you want. You also have to decide for yourself what you intend to do with the car. Then you can go from there on other components needed. If you have the money you can get whatever numbers you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    ...-cayenne your ws6 is sick. first time i've seen it. and while we are braggin, my first car was '95 LT 6 speed z that i tore down in '97.
    Thanks. Yes she looks pretty awesome and has some bragging rights as well! I figured you had to be an LT1 owner at some point in time. You just knew too much.

  14. #34
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    i love LT's. . .and still get to build one from time to time. no motor sounds more beast in my O than a ravenous, high compression, big cam'd LT. . .i would definately have one if my pockets didn't leak so bad. i road raced a c4 for a few years before my current car. . .wish i could have it all maybe one day i will.

    <<<<<<---------oh and never use milodon pickups. . . .

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    i love LT's. . .and still get to build one from time to time. no motor sounds more beast in my O than a ravenous, high compression, big cam'd LT. . .i would definately have one if my pockets didn't leak so bad. i road raced a c4 for a few years before my current car. . .wish i could have it all maybe one day i will.

    <<<<<<---------oh and never use milodon pickups. . . .
    Glad to see you've had some experience with the old LT. Those motors have lots of potential.

  16. #36
    For 450-500hp you DONT need a 4 bolt block or splayed mains. All you need is a balanced rotating assembly and stud the 2 bolt mains. Stock steel rods with ARP bolts and some decent forged pistons like Speed Pro.


    Pull the engine, do a stock rebuild. Balance the rotating assembly.

    Call advanced induction or Lloyd Elliot for a top end package.

    Build the trans, those wheels are gonna be hard on it.

    Get it tuned and enjoy.

    You are not gonna make 500hp that way, but you can make 425-450 at the flywheel.

  17. #37
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY View Post
    For 450-500hp you DONT need a 4 bolt block or splayed mains. All you need is a balanced rotating assembly and stud the 2 bolt mains. Stock steel rods with ARP bolts and some decent forged pistons like Speed Pro.


    .

    Agreed on the fact that those parts will do the job, but for ~550$, I'd have a set of forged rods as cheap insurance.

  18. #38
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    also agreed on the fact that those parts will do the job but 4 bolt mains are a "might as well" also if the block is already at machine shop. but "might as wells" are what turns a budget build into an expensive one.

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