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LT4 Hotcam question

This is a discussion on LT4 Hotcam question within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; If I were to install the LT4 hotcam in my LT1, would it give it a rough idle? I have ...

  1. #1
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    LT4 Hotcam question

    If I were to install the LT4 hotcam in my LT1, would it give it a rough idle? I have been looking at different cams, and I want a set up that will be a somewhat smooth idle (because it is my everyday driver), but I still want to be able to get some power. I want it somewhat radical, but not too crazy. I am only looking to get to the 320-360 hp range (with more mods obviously). And also, this may seem like a stupid question, but will the radiator from a 3.4 work for the LT1? I am thinking it won't, but for some reason I cannot find anything saying whether it will or will not. Thanx for any help.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    An LT4 Hotcam with a good tune and all the supporting bolt ons will make anywhere from 320-340rwhp with a good tune. That's well over 360 at the flywheel. It is a mild cam, you wont notice it hardly at all from the couple that I have heard. As for the radiator, check to see if an LT1 radiator and a 3.4 radiator have the same part number. If not, then they probably wont interchange. I doubt they will anyway with the LT1's cooling system routing.

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    Thats good because I have heard some good things about the LT4 Hotcam. Would you recommend switching out the intake with the hotcam (or any other recommendations while I have the motor out)? Also, do you know if the lightweight flywheel makes as big a difference as everyone says it does? Thanks for all of the help.

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    You could get the LT4 hotcam kit, it includes roller rockers, retainers, springs, and everything else you need to install it. But, MAKE SURE you get the LT4 cam that is made for your year car. The 93-95 cams are different from the 96-97 cams. Summitracing sells the LT4 Hotcam kit for $529.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAm45
    Thats good because I have heard some good things about the LT4 Hotcam. Would you recommend switching out the intake with the hotcam (or any other recommendations while I have the motor out)? Also, do you know if the lightweight flywheel makes as big a difference as everyone says it does? Thanks for all of the help.

    You dont need to change the intake manifold, but you do need a good cold air intake such as moroso or K&N. and some good headers, full exhaust, and PCM tuning. Without all of that you will not be taking advantage of the additional flow that the cam provides for.

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    What about the LT4 heads?? Are they worth the price, or are there other heads that compare for less $$ ? Also, what are your favorites in the area of exhaust? I am trying to get some experienced opinions on these parts before I install them on my LT1, because I want to do it right the first time.

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    If you want to inprove on your heads just have the stockers ported by someone that has done lots of LT1 heads before. Any longtube header will work fine for thatapplication, such as Hooker, pacesetter, Jethot, etc.

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    Where is the cheapest place to purchase one? I found it for 175 at GMpartsdirect but the fuckers want to charge 38$ shipping for a god damn cam. I'm going to run one in my sbc with heads that flow 249/173 @ .400 and 259/184 @ .500.

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    That cam sounds pretty healthy. What bolt ons do you have along with the cam LuckyYou?? Do you ever have problems with idle in the cold weather???

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by TransAm45
    That cam sounds pretty healthy. What bolt ons do you have along with the cam LuckyYou?? Do you ever have problems with idle in the cold weather???
    She doesn't really like to start sometimes when left outside, and when it does start it lopes pretty hard. Once warm, no problems.

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    At what lift do the cams begin to merge from mild to rough?? Is the .525 lift on the LT4 cam pretty average.. or is it more towards the mild side. Im looking to get the most power I can out of my LT1 without taking the street car, everyday driver out of it.

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    A LT4 hotcam, if tuned correctly, will have almost identical driveability to a stock LT1 motor.

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    Driveability is all about how much you're willing to put up with on a daily basis. I drive my '69 every day and it's got a 327 running 10.5 compression, 3/4 cam, and 650 edelbrock. It all depends on what you want!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. CarelessAndImprudent
    I drive my '69 every day and it's got a 327 running 10.5 compression, 3/4 cam, and 650 edelbrock.
    That actually sounds like a pretty mild (streetable) combination to me.

  16. #16
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    Everything that people are saying here is true. I have a comp cam 305 (which is basically the same profile as a LT4 hotcam) and it idles real smooth without any noticable lope. I have my PCM tuned to idle at just around 850 and in gear but foot on brake at about 1,000. I also have LT4 heads that were CNC ported. I have the intake runners cleaned up a little bit and the TB openings enlarged to accept a 58mm twin blade TB. You can stick with your stock lt1 intake and it would work fine. Make sure you get full exhaust... you'll waste your investment if your car can't breath right. It'll be taking a huge breath in, but won't be able to exhale without a better flowing exhaust.

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    If you don't mind me asking "lt4ever".. how much did you pay on the CNC machining?? I have heard many different price ranges, I need to just find a shop around Kansas City that will do it and see what they will charge. I havn't had time because I am in Springfield going to MSU. And also.. what are the price ranges for tuning??

  18. #18
    lt4ever
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    I think it was in the neighborhood of $1,200 for the port and polish. The did a complete CNC radial axis machining of the runners, chamber work, 5 angle valve job, and I also had them deck the heads 0.03" to boost my static compression ratio to 11.3:1. Tuning charges can vary widely by the person doing the job. I've paid everywhere from a mail order www.PCMforless.com around $100. But I'm leary of mail order tuning guys. I went to a great racing shop here in south east Michigan "Wheel to Wheel Racing" and they're a bit expensive for a full chassis dyno tune, around $500 but IMO, well worth it.

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    That is actually cheaper than I thought it would be. Not the tune, but the CNC. At what compression ration do you start to get away from pump gas?? 11.3-1 is pretty high isn't it?? Does the way it's tuned have anything to do with whether it is a M6 or an A4?

  20. #20
    lt4ever
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    It might... but I'm not a tuner so I don't claim to know much about that... other than adjusting the shift points in the automatic I'm not sure.... but I would wager a guess and say the tranny isn't what you're tuning... it's the engine. So whether it's an A4 or M6, probably doesn't matter much in terms of the tune. As for the compression ratio on pump gas, there are some great articles on the web...(do some research and check it out) but you could get away with running a high 11 or low 12:1 and still run 94 octane pump gas and not experience knock.

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