This is a discussion on LT1 alignment within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I want to adjust the camber on my drivers side. Both tires actually lean in too much on the top ...
08-03-2006, 02:23 PM #1
I want to adjust the camber on my drivers side. Both tires actually lean in too much on the top but the drivers side is worse.. Which bolts do I loosen to make the slight adjustment? I think on the bottom side of the suspension the bottom bracket that hold the wheel bearings needs to slide in toward the center of the car. Then the tire wouldnt lean in so much. It looks like a leverage principle thing. Anyone ever set their own alignment? I set the toe in already and its perfect. I don't know how any alignment shop could have screwed up so bad but they did.
08-03-2006, 04:35 PM #2
There is no way this adjustment should be made by hand, off of an alignment rack. Take it to another alignment shop and have it corrected.
08-03-2006, 05:19 PM #3
I set the toe-in using a string tied to the rear tire and brought it around the front side of the front tire to create a str8 line from the rear of the car. And it worked rear good. You should try it. You can see how far in or out your tire is
And as far as the camber is concerned I can at least inch it along closer to the desired setting. Far better than what it is now.
Last edited by Chad97z; 08-03-2006 at 05:27 PM.
08-04-2006, 12:31 AM #4
I've aligned several cars on an alignment rack after a home done alignment, and it was never right. Your eyes can play tricks on you. You're going to need it done on a rack at some point or another, so you might as well have it all done. You can get somewhat close on toe doing it shadetree... but getting your caster and camber correct is almost impossible.
08-04-2006, 12:27 PM #5
08-05-2006, 10:37 AM #6
But I see that if you physically move the tire inward, then not only will the camber go more positive, but also the toe-in is effected since the tire is now closer to the center of the vehicle. My guess would be , if the tire was moved closer to the center of that car (inward) then the tire would be more towed-out than what it was before. This is just if I am thinking of it right.
My approach to doing this would be to change as little as possible. Just remembering to step it along in the direction I need to get it. Like make an adjustment and drive it. Then make another small adjustment and drive it again. Each time, adjusting the tow-in to compensate the difference for camber change.
I have not really checked this out on the car yet, but I presume you're talking about the A and B bolts in this pic? And the "front" bolt is A?
Also, in theory, shouldn't both lower control arms be equal distance from center in order to have the same camber setting?
Last edited by Chad97z; 08-05-2006 at 10:47 AM.
08-05-2006, 10:37 AM #7
08-05-2006, 10:46 AM #8
A and B are the shock mount bolts. look where the arrow for #9 is. right under the boot, you'll see the bolt for the lower control arm. now, draw a line straight back and you'll see the nut for the rear part of the control arm. that one affects caster.
you are correct, when you slide the arm inward, it will make the toe more negative (outward). you adjust that at #7.
08-05-2006, 10:56 AM #9
08-05-2006, 02:15 PM #10
On many suspension designs, the inner mounting points for the lower arms are not inline with each other lengthwise down the car. This is done for caster and bumpsteer
08-05-2006, 03:15 PM #11
actually, I see why loosening one bolt or the other can effect the other. Since both those bolts are used to mount the arm, by only adjusting one, the whole arm is slightly angled forward or backward from the original position and causing a variation in the caster. So in order to change only the camber without changing the caster, both screws must be loosened and the whole arm slid evenly toward the middle of the car or outward away from the car. Bingo.
Last edited by Chad97z; 08-05-2006 at 03:25 PM. Reason: spellingEibach; Bilstein; K&N; 35mm/25mm anti-sway bars; slotted rotors; 52mm TB; Meziere water pump; Red STB; LT4 knock mod; Hypertech; factory high flow y-pipe w/ small cut-out; SS rear deck, front mats and portfolio; Clear corners; Front grill
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