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HP boost?

This is a discussion on HP boost? within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Ok, so, I have a 95 Trans Am 6spd and what I'd like to do is boost up the Horsepower ...

  1. #1
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    Exclamation HP boost?

    Ok, so, I have a 95 Trans Am 6spd and what I'd like to do is boost up the Horsepower to around the 400 mark. What is the easiest way/cheapest way of doing this???

    These are the ideas that I have:
    1) Ram Air setup (I do alot of highway driving)
    2) Underdrive pulley (if I can find one)
    3) Muffler (Cat back), maybe headers if I can swing it.....
    4) Maybe a chip?
    5) Ummm yeah, that's all I got ...

    So any other cheap parts to bolt on? I could use ANY help or ideas!!! I also do not have a boat load of cash, so I guess engine rebuilding/swapping is out! lol

    Thanks all!!!!

  2. #2
    Paid 2 Post Daycrew SexOnWheels's Avatar
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    If you want 400hp at the wheels you need a ported Head/cam swap.

    Of course all the boltons (headers, intake, etc) need to be on the car aswell.

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    How much will that cost roughly?? I have a buddy who is a Ford mechanic. Will this take long if we do it ourselves??

    **Also, I found this on ebay :::
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/Camaro-LT1-LS1-V6...QQcmdZViewItem


    Any good?

  4. #4
    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sofTAp View Post
    How much will that cost roughly?? I have a buddy who is a Ford mechanic. Will this take long if we do it ourselves??

    **Also, I found this on ebay :::
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/Camaro-LT1-LS1-V6...QQcmdZViewItem


    Any good?
    NO! Don't buy any 'chips', especially off of e-bay. All of them are just a gimmick to get your money. Technically, there are no chips for the 94 and up f-bodies, because GM soldered all the 'chips' into the PCM, so they can't be physically removed. The only way to alter the computer is through the PCM.

    As far as the 400hp goal, are you looking at for that at the crank or the wheels? Like mentioned earlier, H/C and full bolt-ons. Assuming you're making ~250hp at the wheels, you have to make an extra 150 wheel hp to reach the 400 mark. You could do full bolt-on and 100-125 shot of juice. BUt if you want to go N/A, then head work, or at least a cam is mandatory.

  5. #5
    I'm getting a bunch of stuff done and I should net around 390-410 rwhp, and its alot of work. I have a 58mm tb, ported intake, le2 ported heads, le1 cam with 1.6rr and 2" valves, impala gaskets, new plugs, injectors and headers going in with a mail order tune. If I went with a bigger cam i could probably see 410-430 but I decided to go the safer route, after a dyno tune i might squeeze out 5-10 more band hp but thats about it. This is on a 96 lt1 trans m6. Parts alittle over a grand and a half, install probably the same... so maybe ~$3,500 (i also have intake/exhuast) to get an LT1 to 400 NA and stay completly legal. If i went with long tubes, removed the cats, went with bigger cam and with aggressive tuning maybe you could see 450 for only a few hundred more?

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    easiest= nitrous, plain and simple.

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0THIS View Post
    easiest= nitrous, plain and simple.
    That's true, but how much can he go on a stock motor? I would think no more than 150 shot.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    400 at the flywheel is only 350rwhp or so, which isnt an outlandish goal for a stock motor. It's doable.

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    Hey thanks for the info guys.
    Do I really need to to the cam/head work?? Or are there bolt ons that could net me around that 400 hp range??

  10. #10
    Other then nitrous there is no way youd see 400 rwhp without heads and cam WITH full bolt ons.

    Although are you talking 400 HP or 400 WHEEL horsepower? Cause 400 block power could possibly be done with bolt ones and just a cam or nitrous by itself.

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Yeah, a full bolt-on, stock cube LT1 will never see 400 RWHP. A cam or nitrous will have to be added to the mix.

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackLT1Z28 View Post
    Yeah, a full bolt-on, stock cube LT1 will never see 400 RWHP. A cam or nitrous will have to be added to the mix.

    Yeah, and it would take more than a cam on top of bolt ons to get anywhere close to 400rwhp. Highest numbers for a cam only (+bolt ons) car that I've seen are right around 350rwhp. Most heads/cam cars dont reach 400rwhp.

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    Member jasonisdn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sofTAp View Post
    Hey thanks for the info guys.
    Do I really need to to the cam/head work?? Or are there bolt ons that could net me around that 400 hp range??
    lets ask a better question. how much are you willing to spend? that will limit your path to 400 (rwhp or flywheel). if you got a decent pile of green laying around go to www.advancedinduction.com. tell them what you want hp wise and they will put you there. LE heads will work aswell , i just see better results with AI's customers. i expect over 450rwhp with a setup i got from them but a hp number doesn't tell you how fast the car will be on the track.
    you are going down a road that will be trying but fun, expensive but worth it.

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    Hmmm, so it would be expensive either way it looks like. I have to rebuild the reverse synchro and clutch this year, and I just wanted to add a few other parts to get it up to or past 350hp. RWHP or at the motor, either wat. The car is surprisingly quick; it beats my buddies LS1 Camero and they are both stock and manuals. I was shocked at first, but we have run over 7 times, and everytime I came out ahead.
    I would like to just ensure that I walk the majority of cars on the road. My car does alright the way it sits; I have never lost any challenge. But I also scope out what I am going to race so I am not blindfolded.
    Any ideas as to what are the cheapest bolt-ons to do???
    Thanks guys,

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    Member jasonisdn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sofTAp View Post
    Ok, so, I have a 95 Trans Am 6spd and what I'd like to do is boost up the Horsepower to around the 400 mark. What is the easiest way/cheapest way of doing this???

    These are the ideas that I have:
    1) Ram Air setup (I do alot of highway driving)
    2) Underdrive pulley (if I can find one)
    3) Muffler (Cat back), maybe headers if I can swing it.....
    4) Maybe a chip?
    5) Ummm yeah, that's all I got ...

    So any other cheap parts to bolt on? I could use ANY help or ideas!!! I also do not have a boat load of cash, so I guess engine rebuilding/swapping is out! lol

    Thanks all!!!!
    if these are all of your mods you got room for improvement. ram air or a nice CAI kit will both work. underdrive pullies avoid, most are piggy back and just add more rotating mass. as far as mufflers stay away from flow masters, they hurt performance. try a dynomax or a slp 2 on the left. they dont use chips anymore its all flash programing now. dyno tune is always better than a hand held or mail order tune but price is a issue there. headers would help but then you gotta make or buy a y-pipe. cutting weight will always help also

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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonisdn View Post
    if these are all of your mods you got room for improvement. ram air or a nice CAI kit will both work. underdrive pullies avoid, most are piggy back and just add more rotating mass. as far as mufflers stay away from flow masters, they hurt performance. try a dynomax or a slp 2 on the left. they dont use chips anymore its all flash programing now. dyno tune is always better than a hand held or mail order tune but price is a issue there. headers would help but then you gotta make or buy a y-pipe. cutting weight will always help also
    Oh ... So, underdrive pulleys are no good??? The BBK one says that it could net me about 15hp ... would this not be good??

  17. #17
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    ram air is a gimmick, it will do nothing for you at highway speeds. get a regular cold air kit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sofTAp View Post
    Oh ... So, underdrive pulleys are no good??? The BBK one says that it could net me about 15hp ... would this not be good??
    nope no good. 5.0 ram air is really a good way to get needed air. if the car actually needs it. you have more filter surface and a straight shot at the throttle body. i am going to a ram air setup after all is said and done. to me the worst issue is the needed hood, for me

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    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    Havent seen much of the data on ram air, have you? People have tested it, and datalogged with it. They saw no difference in manifold VACUUM levels until speeds of ~180 mph were reached. Even then, you arent by any means creating any kind of positive manifold pressure, just slightly less vacuum. Like I said, pure gimmick. Unless you mechanically force air down the engine's throat, it's only going to suck up what it needs as an air pump, for the most part.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0THIS View Post
    Havent seen much of the data on ram air, have you? People have tested it, and datalogged with it. They saw no difference in manifold VACUUM levels until speeds of ~180 mph were reached. Even then, you arent by any means creating any kind of positive manifold pressure, just slightly less vacuum. Like I said, pure gimmick. Unless you mechanically force air down the engine's throat, it's only going to suck up what it needs as an air pump, for the most part.
    you got half of my point. you are giving the motor the ability to have more air if it needs it. most guys on here don't require it due to lower hp levels. i am looking for more surface area to pull from. think of my point like this 48mm tb vs a mono blade. if you dont need the mono you will not gain but will hurt performance. i will be running a mono blade with the biggest surface area of a filter i can find. to me it looks to be the ram air setup. i am not looking for it to act as a super charger like you imply. i want the motor to be able to breath to its best ability. also a straight shot to the TB vs 2 90 degree turns= less heat.

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