Fuel Filter fixes everything...
This is a discussion on Fuel Filter fixes everything... within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by JwMonE99 Checked codes today, got 2 o2 sensores but i have no cats. And an EGR valve ...
11-10-2008, 10:40 PM #21
11-10-2008, 10:45 PM #22
11-11-2008, 08:15 AM #23
Well Idk about that, I was having problems with my girl and then I changed the fuel filter and had make up sex afterword.
1/8 mile 8.32 at 83.97
1/4 mile 13.049 at 105.24
11-11-2008, 08:16 AM #24
11-11-2008, 02:33 PM #25
I checked it today and it was at 30 even after it cranks.
When the first time I turned it to the on position it was at like 10ish and then started to drop slowling, and then after each time I turned it to the on position it would get higher and higher. I think after turning it to on the 5th time it was a little over 30.
11-11-2008, 02:34 PM #26
Would a dead EGR valve be the cause of this?
11-11-2008, 05:00 PM #27
an EGR is just an emmissions thing that recirculates exhaust gases for a more clean exhaust. I doubt that is causing your engine to not start. you never said if you had any codes or not..?
11-11-2008, 05:32 PM #28
Your computer should prime your fuel pump for a couple seconds and very quickly be up to 42 psi or more. Your pump is bad and I am not sure it could even start with only 30 psi. Not sure though.
On the other hand how quickly does your pressure bleed off? I can't remember how long it should hold, but if it looses pressure quickly you may have an injector leaking.
11-11-2008, 05:34 PM #29
Also can you smell fuel pretty bad when you are cranking it over a couple times?
11-11-2008, 05:50 PM #30
Nope I dont smell fuel.
I already stated what codes the car had.
I dont really know how else to explain the pressure. When it cranked it was at like 30 or a little over. then it started to drop a little bit then I just cut it off.
The first time I just tried to crank it without priming it, it was only at like 10.
Could it be the fuel pump check valve? If so can I buy just the valve or do I need to replace the whole fuel pump?
11-11-2008, 06:00 PM #31
You stated you had 2 O2 codes and an EGR code but those are not the codes. The codes should be something like P0136. This bit of info tells alot. The front O2's are for fueling and the rears measure Cat effectiveness.
Either way I think your pump is not giving enough pressure and I don't ever remember them having a check valve, I may be wrong though.96 WS6 Trans Am LT4 Hot Cam, Pacesetter LT, 2.5" Xpipe into Dynomax, 3000 Stall Edge racing converter, Trans go shift kit,Tuning by me, MSD6A, CSR waterpump 328 RWHP 12.36 @ 109
11-11-2008, 06:08 PM #32
i cant tell you another way to test but it takes special tools.
The old way of cleaning injectors, maybe still, but who knows.. Anyways, you have a canister of cleaner, and it is tapped into the shrader valve on the fuel line. And the canister is pressurized by a compressor. Then disconnect the fuel pump fuse so it doesnt run when you start the motor..And also you want to block the cleaning solution from going backwards into tank, so you would have to block it off somehow. I dont remember how that is done, but I know they do that.. So then you start your car normally with the fuel lines and pump totally out of the picture. And if it starts and runs fine then you know you have a fuel pressure problem
11-11-2008, 06:12 PM #33
11-14-2008, 11:29 AM #34
11-14-2008, 11:29 AM #35
But bottom line, I think the fuel pump check valve is out so ima replace the fuel pump. Anyone think its somthing else before I invest into this?
11-14-2008, 12:26 PM #36
And to be honest, I don't think you're going to be able to get a lot of help here because troubleshooting an automobile accurately is not easy with only part of the information. You said you had an SES light, but you have not told use the codes. See, when the SES illuminates, it sets a code in the computer. So, job # 1 is get the codes. Guessing what is wrong with your car WITH the codes is hard enough, not to mention without the codes. And "guessing" is exactly what any of us can do without all the details.
11-14-2008, 12:35 PM #37
Well I dont remember what exactly the codes was, but I do know what they were for. I just had them checked the other day. Pretty much it was from the rear o2 sensors which I knew I would have because I dont have any cats.
The other code said I have a dead EGR valve which I didnt know till then. There was no other codes.
11-14-2008, 12:45 PM #38
well, may want to consider installing new O2's first.. or whichever ones are old. I have a very long extension that I used to change my passenger side one. In fact I think I had 2 extensions. total of about 4 feet. Sprayed rust remover on it, and let it set a while, spray it again and then started the engine and let it warm while I applied pressure on the socket that was on the O2 sensor. Then when it broke free I shut off the car.
See, the exhaust will expand as it gets warm. Therefore allowing the O2 to break free. You probably wont be able to turn it any other way.
Other than that I wouldnt know. but one thing is for sure, you probably need O2's so whats the hurt in doing that first? But ya they arn't cheap.
Probably O2's wont keep your car from starting because I dont think they are in the fuel mixture calculation until the comptuer goes into closed loop. So I dont know what to tell ya
Last edited by Chad97SS; 11-14-2008 at 12:51 PM.
11-17-2008, 06:13 PM #39
well my life was down and out so i replaced my fuel filter and geico called to say i just saved on my car insurance, thanks.
11-17-2008, 06:40 PM #40
time to unsubscribe.. I just sold my camaro last monday anyway
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