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College budget LT1 engine rebuilt

This is a discussion on College budget LT1 engine rebuilt within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Well, regardless of what it says on AS&Ms site... the AS&Ms have always been considered midlength headers. Shorties will get ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
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    95 Z28

    Well, regardless of what it says on AS&Ms site... the AS&Ms have always been considered midlength headers. Shorties will get you good power gains, but certainly not as good as a 1 3/4 midlength or longtube design. My headers have no clearance issues so far as the chassis or ground clearance is concerned. Plug access is about the same as any other mid or long tube.

  2. #22
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    1996 camaro Z28

    ohhh ok... hey i see that they run at about the same price... mids... and long... also... i have been looking at the pacesetters... long tube... they have all attachments... would u recommend them??? since i have seen that people rather have long tube than mids.. or short headers.. what do u say 5.0this??

  3. #23
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    95 Z28

    A guy dynoed AS&Ms versus Hooker longtubes, and on a supercahrged engine at that. The long tubes didnt show any gains over the AS&Ms until something like 650-700rwhp. Long tube owners want to believe that no mid length header can compete with their precious long tubes, but it just isnt so. That being said, either will do the job for you... get whatever is cheapest and easiest to find. Long tubes will have more ground clearance issues though...

  4. #24
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    1996 camaro Z28

    Got U... :notworthy

  5. #25
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    1996 camaro Z28

    Shit...i just got my car back from the mechanic and what comes up right after they close...??? SES .. i head that the muffler is rubbing into the chassis.. would this make the knock sensor go crazy... i mean the car fells ok.. i havent really floored it... i want to brake into it easy.. im keeping it under 65 miles.. at the freeway.. what do u guys think...?? this car is going back to the shop tommorow... but still just i case they dont want to fix the muffler rubbing into the frame i could tell them that that is causing the knock sensor to go crazy... thanx... for all

  6. #26
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    95 Z28

    Probably not the muffler, but perhaps the y pipe or cat, or headers themselves. The SES light could be a ton of different things, they'll have to pull codes to check.

  7. #27
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    yeah.. i took it to them today... they should get back to me in an hour or two.... btw... what is the normal operating temp for a rebuilt engine opened to .30 cauz i think this is alil too hot.. but i dont know.. its like at 220-230 its this ok??

  8. #28
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    thats pretty dayum hott if you ask me. thats shut off time

  9. #29
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    i did imagine.. but isnt normal operating temp set at 210 or so...?? i just want to check this and how would i be able to keep it down... running at 65 miles... the temp stays at 180 or 210 but as soon is on traffic it jumps to to 220-230... any ideas??? i have a new water pump... and new hoses.. the radiator was clean... and it has anti-freeze... so i dont know what else to do... remmember that it just got rebuilt ... probably dont even have like 50 miles on the engine...

  10. #30
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    95 Z28

    As long as your cooling fans are working and you dont get near the red zone you're ok. LT1s run fairly warm from the factory. 220 is ok, it wont damage the engine, but you are losing power at that temperature. If you want the car to run cooler, a 160 thermostat and a manual control switch for the fans will help alot. Also, it could be running a bit too warm if the cooling system wasnt properly bled, and has air bubbles in it.

  11. #31
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    Don't get AS&M, too expense for a college budget.

    Here is a small list

    Pacesetter coated long tubes $400
    Texas Speed True Dual Exhaust $400
    PCM4LESS tuning $200 or so bucks
    Any intake elbow $70
    New Version LT1 Comp Cam ( do not get the hot cam, the new comp cam versions offer more LS1 profile lifts and duration instead of something a carburator 350 would run, I believe they have something like 218/218 with .551" lift and 114LSA or something similar)$250
    Eagle rods,ARP main and head studs, and Wiseco pistons with 11:1 comp and .020" over $1,100
    Port Pros Stage ONE heads (which basically well rounds a complete rebuilt package with new Stainless steel valves, port job,, and ready to assembly on engine heads) $1,100

    Well your little over $3,600 so far which really covers 90% of your build and I know what your thinking, that is f*&king expensive. Trust me this is cheap, in the performance world you have to pay to play with the big boys.
    And this sucks for a college student.

    Rebuilt the engine correct or buy a $2,000 peice of shit to get you around while the beloved F-Body lifelessly remains parked and collects dust and birdshit instead of wins at the track.

    I would say f&%k it, rebuild the damn LT1 but I'm 60 hours away from graduating, I don't know where your at. More than likely probrably further along than me but I cannot let a good F-Body just parked, they were made to drive.

  12. #32
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    Dont worry man.. i wont let my car sit around... i already rebuilt the engine... actually had to take it back to get some code check.... but yeah i woudnt let my car sit and collect dust... for the two weeks that the car was sitting in the garage i was i could go pick up my gf.. take her out.. got to fontana speedway to kick it with my org. brothers.. or anything like that.. i was stuck in my apt and had to ask for rides even to the store.. seriously its suck not to have a car... i wanted to go upgrades while the engine was out of the car to save on labor.. but my starter was dead... my motor mounts were history.. i needed another water pump... hoses... belts.. and shit i didnt count on the firt time.. so everytihng came up to 2740.. which game only a lil money to spare into the " performance zone" i ended up only having the heads ported.. to allow for more flow...in about 2 months.. ill add the CAI and the elbow since i really need another one ( its riped) and for looks ... and headers.. everything else its stock . also im thinking of adding the manual switch to keep the temp down.. SLP to make it easier on the installation.. ohh and the dyno tune... im thinking of maybe going to san diego.. i want the dyno tune so that they can give me the sheet and know for reals what my car is doing.. the next big thing that im probably going to address its the differential.. how much would that run for?? how much should i expect to pay install???
    Last edited by eleve2003; 11-22-2005 at 10:41 PM.

  13. #33
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    Labor on installing gears should run $200 on an experiance mechanic. If you go into the diff you should have a good Limited Slip installed at the same time, I believe SLP has the Auburn units on sale but I'm not sure.
    When choosing a great installer for gears I have found that the best installers are the 4X4 truck guys that go mudding and rock crawling, thats all they do is change gear ratios have the time so the local guys around here can do it with their eyes close and usually on the first shim and dial in. Which can get frustrating when they aren't set right because they will whine and eventually break under racing use.
    3.73s with an auto and 4.10s with a manual if your running stock displacement but I'm sure you already new this.

  14. #34
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    yeap... ill do 3.73 then is not that bad ill also add in new axels ill want to have the best 10 bolts as possible.. cauz the 12 bolts is just too much for my application in my opinion.. but htankz that will let me know what should be my budget..

  15. #35
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    95 Z28

    Dont bother putting aftermarket axles in your ten bolt, it would be a complete waste of money. When the 10 bolt lets go, it likely wont be the axles. The ring gear and pinion are what lets go, and there is no way to make those any stronger... the inherent problem is that they're too small. A TA girdle will help.. just do that if you're staying with the 10 bolt.

  16. #36
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    1995 Z28

    Have the shop use the head gasket from the 96 Impalla SS, and it will raise your compression ratio to 11.0-1 (a half point higher). This is because the Impalla LT1 has different iron heads. It is an easy way to get higher compression. Your 96 with the OBDII will be more of a hassle than a 94-95 model, but there are work arounds to get the tuning to work. I had the LT4 Hot cam in my 95 with a stock computer, and turned 332RWHP thru stock manifolds/stock heads. Later changed both of those.

  17. #37
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    Thanx again... i didnt know that what broke on a diff was the ring and pinion... now i know... // hey the code that the mechanic told me was the p300 or p 3000 dont really remmember ,,, any clue to what that code does???

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