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Check guage comes on after warm up at idle and oil pressure drops to 0

This is a discussion on Check guage comes on after warm up at idle and oil pressure drops to 0 within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have read around and looks like this thing may be common on some cars. It has a new sensor. ...

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    Check guage comes on after warm up at idle and oil pressure drops to 0

    I have read around and looks like this thing may be common on some cars. It has a new sensor. I was sitting in a parking lot last night letting the car idle while i was talking to 2 ls1 guys. By the way these guys mouths were watering because of the way my car sounded. Anyway 1 guy in the low 12 second ss goes over and he hollers at me because of the oil pressure. I told him it was normal but he felt like i should look into it more. He knows his cars pretty well he is putting an lt1 in an 84 short bed truck and the motor was his so thats why i decided to go ahead and ask.

    THANKS

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Never heard of that!

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    2nd last of the lt1s EVAR 94z28l's Avatar
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    purple pearl metalic
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    0 psi, that doesnt sound good

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Yeah, you should always have some oil pressure. Zero is not good.

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    Member Fedge's Avatar
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    unless the oil pressure sender behind the intake is shot.

    about 60 bux from NAPA and the like....

    if you don't hear any knocking or tapping, then it should be the sensor...look into it and good luck
    95 Exploder

    01 R1 coming?

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    I got mine from autozone for around $25. Then I got another one from Advanced Auto parts for around $20. I broke the first one because its harder than shit to replace it on the 94's, before they moved it to the intake manifold. I had to hammer out part of the fender wall with a ball-peen hammer because the huge special socket and ratchet wouldn't fit where they needed to go.

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    so where is this sensor exactly? Is it different than the oil pressure sensor he already changed? Cause he said he just put one in not to long ago. He said it didn't fix the problem so it had to do with the gauge it self not the sensor. I have read that the stock guages suck and are very unreliable.

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    wow! maybe thats what is leaking at the back side of the motor if he replace it? The leak is very minmal but it is a leak. Thanks for the pic!
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    lt4 hot cam, l.e. heads, gold 1.6rr, hooker lts, 3"ypipe, hookercatback, no cats, subframes, b&m ripper, k&n cai, msd6a-coil-opti, udp, tr55 g's, ta girdle, 4.10's, boxed control arms, Madz28 tune, specstg3, alum. elbow. No traction

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Yeah, if its not tightened all the way down, it won't provide a good seal and will leak oil. Plus, it won't read accurate oil pressure because the pressure is escaping due to the leak.

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    95 camaro z28

    I had the same problem, mechanic told me it was the oil pump so i changed it to a high volume pump, problem was still there, a couple days later i had a nasty knock in the block.

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    so what did you do? What fixed it?

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    I think it's only happening when the car gets really hot under the hood. I ran the car for 20 minutes the other day with the hood opened and it never happened. Seems to happen like in bumper to bumper taffic, parked and ideling for long periods like that nite. It got so hot under the hood the firberglass firewall back near the #8 header tube was smoking from the headers. And it was like a heat blast opening the hood kinda like opening an oven door. Engine temp was running about 210.

    So maybe the sensor looses functionality at high temps at idle?

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    It shouldn't have that problem. Get a cooler t-stat if you want. But if you ever sit in traffic and your engine temps start to go up, turn your heater on full blast. I know it will be hot as hell, especially in the summer, but it will cool the engine down quite a bit. I've had to do it a few times.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    First of all, your firewall should not be smoking! And don't let these cars idle while you are BSing. They get to hot and it ruins everything under the hood!

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    LT1 Guy
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    if the sensor is new you may have another issue you dont know about. you might want to put a mechanical pressure gauge on there to check and see if the gauge is matching it.

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    I still havent gotten it fixed, cant find a mechanic that is familiar with the lt1 block, so thinking of saving up and getting a golen short block 383 with forged rods, crank so i can raise up the compression ratio with the lt4 heads i have.

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    2nd last of the lt1s EVAR 94z28l's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackLT1Z28 View Post
    It shouldn't have that problem. Get a cooler t-stat if you want. But if you ever sit in traffic and your engine temps start to go up, turn your heater on full blast. I know it will be hot as hell, especially in the summer, but it will cool the engine down quite a bit. I've had to do it a few times.
    +1 damn weekend traffic. reprogramming the fans and a cooler t-stat will help for sure or even a manua fan switch would help with a new t-stat, the heater trick will bring down engine temps as well

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    Wow i must have fallen off the face of the earth in December. I had several posts I never did reply back to sorry...I have not had the issue since and I have not allowed the car to get that hot except one day after some spirited driving i ran into some traffic and used the heater trick which helped but I noticed the hotter the motor got the lower the pressure got at idle. I have a pretty nasty oil leak I am in the process of doing the intake leak repair, while i am there I am going to replace the pressure sending unit and do some other stuff like radiator hoses due to some small leaks i found there.

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    Driving as fast as I can dafaic's Avatar
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    Update!!!

    Alright started at 6pm friday nite and finished putting car back together 7am saturday. Car runs great specially with the new pcm. Still gotta replace o2 sensors. Anyway I replaced the sensor and on my initial drive after the car warmed up while at a stop sign dropped to 0 and my check gauge lite came on! My heart dropped, I gave it a little gas, and drove home braking with left foot and keeping the rpms up. Went to auto zone picked up a cheap oil pressure gauge kit like $16 came with everything, pulled off the #7 spark plug put the fitting in ran the line to the center consol and pulled the little tray out and temporarily mounted the gauge. Anyway cranked her up and immediatly the mechanical gauge rose to 50 while the stock gauge read 40. I let it warm up some and went for a drive. First red light I cam to the pressure dropped to 0 check gauge lite came on looked at mechanical gauge and it said 10#'s!!! So like the other owner said the gauge is busted. On the installation instruction for the mechianical gauge it said that electric sending units get their ground from the threads so if you use any type of thread sealer or tape it will not ground properly and it will act funny. I thought this was funny but can see the truth. It could just be a selling plot to though. Anyway I am happy I have 8-10#'s of pressure at warm idle. Another fbody guy in town told me i needed to run a quart of marvel mystery oil for about 10-15 miles and then change the oil. He said I should have 20-25 at idle. Every where i read here says 8-10 is good. My mechianic buddy said 8-10 was good. He said nascar rule 1000rpm = 10 psi oil pressure. Anyway thought i would let yall know.
    Last edited by dafaic; 02-06-2007 at 11:10 AM.

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