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  1. #1
    Hark_Z
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    Best method of SpEeD!!!!!

    Sorry I realize this is probably a common post but I can't decide on what to do to my car.. I have just intake and exhaust now but I realize I need 3.73's(At) for next mod.. My question now is bang for the buck. I can't decide between STS, 383 stroker,,vortech,procharge,lt4 conversion, ported heads and cam..and such.... I just want opinions on the most effective setup for your money. I was going to sell my car for an ls1 but I keep being told to mod my 50,000 mile LT1 instead cuz its in great shape.. I don't want to have to pay extra for a 12-bolt, dish pistons, forged internals and all that just to allow my car to run with the mods (but I realize I might so who knows). Looking for 400+rwhp, (not too much more)!!!

    I'd love to hear some options guys.. Even if you do suggest an Elis Juan..

  2. #2
    Member dreaded_hope's Avatar
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    97 Firebird

    Best bang for the buck hands down, nitrous. It wont affect your gas milage. When used in a reasonable shot size with the proper safety devices to go with it, it's reliable and safe. For an extra 100 horses for what, maybe 800 or so dollars depending on your kit, you really can't go wrong. Besides hitting the arming switch for the first time = amazing!
    1997 Firebird 3.8L
    A4,WS6 Ram Air Hood, Edelbrock Catback, SLP CAI, 85 Dry Shot
    1981 Firebird Trans Am
    http://members.cardomain.com/dreaded_hope

  3. #3
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    2006 TrailBlazer SS

    Does Nitrous feed in with the press of the gas pedal after hitting the arming switch or is it like you see on tv...you hit the boost button at WOT and bang Knight rider turbo boost.
    If you hit it at WOT with a six speed what gear would you want to be in.
    Never used NOS or know any1 with it.

  4. #4
    Hark_Z
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    Well I'm not a big fan of nitrous but I don't know. How long does a 100 shot bottle last?? Also what do you guys suggest from the options I listed??

  5. #5
    - = LR = - grandkodiak's Avatar
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    Dont bother with the turbo/super unless you have forged internals. I repeat, do not bother with a turbo or super unless you have forged internals. the price for the equipment and installation and the price you will pay later for repairs and rebuild will be astronimcally ineffecient unless you run at low boost, but then not only are you wasting money but you wont be happy with the gains per money either.

    i see you say exhuast as being done, but if you dont already have it, headers and ! or hiflow cats where legal are a must if not already done so.

    you aint goin no where with power without good tires, invest in some, that will cost you nearly a grand there so...

    3.73's and a stall converter should be your next move for most bang for the buck. niether will gain you horsepower, but the gain in mechincal advantage of the ratio change and rpm difference will greatly increase your acceleration (virtual power basically if you are comparing).

    heads will cost you a bundle in parts and labor, you could just do the cam with 1.6 rockers and springs and see a good jump in power for the money... but a match set of heads with a custom cam and dyno tune to boot will be twice as good or more... although we are getting into the $1500 range BASE price here... more likely $2500 said and done for everything. but the gains will be significant.

    lt4 kit, dont bother. go with above or forget it.

    383 stroker: we all want one. the parts are relitivly cheap when you look at those kits, but proper installation with good parts, plus installation is going to get way up there quick... not to mention the down time. and 383 means you sure as hell will need heads/cam and dyno tune manditory, so the cost nearly doubles there.. but you will see some damn fine numbers...

    just my 2 cents.

  6. #6
    - = LR = - grandkodiak's Avatar
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    PS. Nitrous is hands down the MOST cost effective way for power... I'm an NA all the way or supercharger kinda guy... so i have no experience personally with the stuff... but many people here will swear by the stuff. i still think its a cheap thrill... if i cant do it 24, i dont want to be bothered

  7. #7
    Member dreaded_hope's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredg369
    Does Nitrous feed in with the press of the gas pedal after hitting the arming switch or is it like you see on tv...you hit the boost button at WOT and bang Knight rider turbo boost.
    If you hit it at WOT with a six speed what gear would you want to be in.
    Never used NOS or know any1 with it.
    With using nitrous you want to be around at least 3000 RPM before spraying, and then it's up to you. You can spray in whatever gear you want. With me, I have enough traction that I stall my auto up to around 2000, launch and then spray right at 3000 rpm in first, and then keep spraying through all my gears until I cross the finish line. Obviously the longer you spray, the better the gain, although they recommend you don't spray longer than 15 seconds or so, but a quarter mile run is shorter than that anyways. Chances are you V8 guys with taller gear ratios wont be able to spray in first gear and get any kind of traction.

    My 85 shot will last me about 10-12 passes or so, so I fill it maybe every month and a half or so.

    I had installed a supercharger on my car before, but had alot of little problems that kept popping up with it, and it seemed that there was always something that I was fixing, or adjusting, or playing with to get it to run well and get a good gain up to 10 PSI of boost. Even then I didn't gain as much from it as I did from my 85 shot. Eventually I got tired of it, and sold it. I did alot of research on nitrous out of curiosity and was convinced to buy a kit. I run NOS 5175, which cost me 800 something Canadian, and I installed it myself. To date I have never had to do a single thing to my nitrous kit at all, except maybe tighten one of the fittings once, the very first time I had it hooked up. It's really so simple and problem free. I haven't had to adjust, tune, do any weird custom work or anything to accomadate it, just installed the kit, filled the bottle, and away I went. And as I say, the gain is great.

    Basically, I looked at it like 3500-4000 for a supercharger/turbo kit that needed lots of tuning and attention, VS. 800 bucks for a nitrous setup with an equal/greater gain (depending on the setup) that was simple and always there when I needed it.

    What gears does your car have now anyways? 3.23's or 2.73's? 3.73's would wake it up for sure if you had some sticky tires.


  8. #8
    Hark_Z
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    heads will cost you a bundle in parts and labor, you could just do the cam with 1.6 rockers and springs and see a good jump in power for the money... but a match set of heads with a custom cam and dyno tune to boot will be twice as good or more... although we are getting into the $1500 range BASE price here... more likely $2500 said and done for everything. but the gains will be significant.

    What kind of numbers?

  9. #9
    Hark_Z
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    And now I have stock 2.73's dreaded_hope.

  10. #10
    Member dreaded_hope's Avatar
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    I know that with myself, I have an open rear, with 3.08 gears with my auto. This winter while my car is parked I'm swapping to 3.73's with a LSD. I've heard from many people over at firebirdv6.com who have even swapped from 3.08's to 3.42's see half a second drop off their et once they program the pcm for the new gears. So even for me going from 3.08 ---> 3.73's I should see slightly more. I imagine going from 2.73's to 3.73's will give you a gain you'll be really happy with. Plus because you don't have to put in a LSD like me (at least I don't think you do, I'm not really sure about 2.73's with a Z), it'll be a relatively cheap upgrade for the gain.

  11. #11
    - = LR = - grandkodiak's Avatar
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    Cam and tune alone I dunno... anywhere from 20-40 crank horsies depending on cam choice, double that for heads and cam match, possibly more... also depending on level of porting on the heads and flow rates, and how well and how aggressive the cam and tuning timing are.

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