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Why are products for the 1998 not available?

This is a discussion on Why are products for the 1998 not available? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Lol...

  1. #41
    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    Lol

  2. #42
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Question 1/4 mile time?

    If you want in the 12's with an auto, all you should need is a good stall and some 3.73 gears. Keep all the parts you take off the car, and when or if you decide to sell it, say you have all the original parts to return it to stock, then you can really mod it if you want.[/QUOTE]

    Suncoast Creations hood, p&p throttle body, LS6 intake, Dart 225cc 2.02/1.60 heads, TSP 233/239 cam, Hooker headers, 3" duals, Yank SY 4000 stall, LS6 oil pump, double roller timing chain, iridium plugs, Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. Vizage body kit.

    With what you have done what sort of 1//4 mile times are you getting? Do you use drag tires? Those heads alone must have cost some bucks, my friend builds engines and treasures his Dart heads above all his other SBC parts bar none.

    My car came with the Goodyear F1 tires which are nice and the unidirectional tread is good for a rainy place like I live in. Any suggestions for keeping traction with street tires with the automatic?

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    If you want in the 12's with an auto, all you should need is a good stall and some 3.73 gears. Keep all the parts you take off the car, and when or if you decide to sell it, say you have all the original parts to return it to stock, then you can really mod it if you want.
    Suncoast Creations hood, p&p throttle body, LS6 intake, Dart 225cc 2.02/1.60 heads, TSP 233/239 cam, Hooker headers, 3" duals, Yank SY 4000 stall, LS6 oil pump, double roller timing chain, iridium plugs, Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. Vizage body kit.

    With what you have done what sort of 1//4 mile times are you getting? Do you use drag tires? Those heads alone must have cost some bucks, my friend builds engines and treasures his Dart heads above all his other SBC parts bar none.

    My car came with the Goodyear F1 tires which are nice and the unidirectional tread is good for a rainy place like I live in. Any suggestions for keeping traction with street tires with the automatic?[/QUOTE]

    i put lakewood adjustable traction bars on mine and even before the drag radials i put on they made a hell of a difference
    2000 z28 granatelli lid k&n air filter 85mm maf sensor lakewood adjustable traction bars nitto drag radialsgot 3.73s but not installed yet waaaay more to come

  4. #44
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    ok all that came up wrong lol i put lakewood is the beginning of my post idk how that happened

  5. #45
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Clearance?

    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    ok all that came up wrong lol i put lakewood is the beginning of my post idk how that happened
    Do those lakewood traction bars affect ground clearance?

    The sort of traction control that came on the WS6 is not the sophisticated type like the megabuck supercars. If those bars dont affect clearance they are removable and might be a good value to reduce wheel spin which of course would help me with my ET goals.

    Also are they bolt ons or do they require welding?

    I plan on keeping the stock wheels and the F1 tires, just install the Bilstein shock set for now, I liked how they worked on my last vette.

  6. #46
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    the adjustable ones do a little bit but the non adjustable have no affect at all on ground clearance...u take the factory control arms off and put traction bars in place

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  8. #48
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  9. #49
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    the part hanging down is the adjustable part and the black part without it is what the non adlustable look like

  10. #50
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    Nice photos

    If I understand correctly the piece in the second picture would not be there with the non-adjustables? It appears that part would add strength? Is the adjustment threads in the bar or the different bolt holes? What was installation like? How long did it take? Any special tools?

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    If I understand correctly the piece in the second picture would not be there with the non-adjustables? It appears that part would add strength? Is the adjustment threads in the bar or the different bolt holes? What was installation like? How long did it take? Any special tools?
    the part hanging down is the adjustable piece its threaded like a draglink with basically 2 tie rod ends on it and a jam nut that keeps them from turning back and forththe nonadjustable is almost identical to factory with poly bushing and would be easier to install the directions werent very good they looked like they came off a f-ed up copier so i pretty much had to figure what part and bolt went where. it took about an hour to figure out where it all went but otherwise it took about 30 minutes of work the non adjustable you pretty much take 2 bolts out swap the part and put the bolts back all the adjustable does is push the axle forward and backward on the side you adjust if you launch in a certain direction you can compensate it to make a straight launch

  12. #52
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    [QUOTE=
    With what you have done what sort of 1//4 mile times are you getting? Do you use drag tires? Those heads alone must have cost some bucks, my friend builds engines and treasures his Dart heads above all his other SBC parts bar none.

    My car came with the Goodyear F1 tires which are nice and the unidirectional tread is good for a rainy place like I live in. Any suggestions for keeping traction with street tires with the automatic?[/QUOTE]

    I haven't made it to a 1/4 mile track, to many miles away. Last year, on a PT 4000 stall, I ran an 8.03 @89 mph in the 1/8, at 4100 ft elev. I do have an accelarometer{sp?} and it says my best was 11.8@120. Now I have a harder hitting stall, and some rear suspension parts, which should help even more. Now I have traction issues again. The Dart heads were surprisingly reasonable at $1400.00, ordered through a local speedshop.

    I run Nitto drag radials, and they are not that bad in the rain as long as your careful. Heck I've even driven them in snow with no problems.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hwystar View Post
    I haven't made it to a 1/4 mile track, to many miles away. Last year, on a PT 4000 stall, I ran an 8.03 @89 mph in the 1/8, at 4100 ft elev. I do have an accelarometer{sp?} and it says my best was 11.8@120. Now I have a harder hitting stall, and some rear suspension parts, which should help even more. Now I have traction issues again. The Dart heads were surprisingly reasonable at $1400.00, ordered through a local speedshop.

    I run Nitto drag radials, and they are not that bad in the rain as long as your careful. Heck I've even driven them in snow with no problems.
    Cool. So far I think the rear differential gear change makes sense. I want to keep the sort of tires I have on it but also think I may want a little extra help with traction, I have seen the posts of the lakewood bars, but that is an area I am still researching. A tune, particularly those sorts that can have a performance tune and also switch back to stock seem like a good deal for the money too. I also have always loved the Bilsteins so that is an easy choice for me. Handling right now is pretty darn good. Traction aids and exhaust will take me some time to research. I think I can get to where I want to be without too much trouble and without being difficult to put back stock if I need to.

  14. #54
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    i was running non directional sumitomos and spinning my tires through 3rd gear and with the traction bars and tires warm to hot barely broke em loose if at all then went to the nitto drag radials and ive broke them loose one time since theyve been on they made bout a 1/4 inch scratch so i would reccomend to everyone if not drag radials atleast get the traction bars

  15. #55
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    Makes sense

    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    i was running non directional sumitomos and spinning my tires through 3rd gear and with the traction bars and tires warm to hot barely broke em loose if at all then went to the nitto drag radials and ive broke them loose one time since theyve been on they made bout a 1/4 inch scratch so i would reccomend to everyone if not drag radials atleast get the traction bars
    The Drag radials make perfect sense for drag racing, but for what I am after I think the good street performance tires and traction aids such as you mentioned would work out best for me. If they bolt on they can be unbolted so it also keeps with my desire to return to stock if needed. Hooking up is just plain mandatory for ET's. That is why it is one of the mods on my list. If the tires will go up in smoke without the traction aids I am just going slow burning up expensive tires. Adding more Hp without hooking up is not going to help get quicker just smokier.

    That is why I always ask what times people are running with their modifications, it gives me an idea what to expect depending on what I do even if that person wants a more aggressive drag car than I am after.

    The only thing that I am not super hot on at the moment is the converter change.

    Right now I think rear end gears, traction aids, exhaust mods, a tune and perhaps the SLP intake package, and the Bilsteins will get me where I want to be.

  16. #56
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    id stay away from packages theyre way expensive and youre just paying for the name as far as tires the treadwear and traction on the sidewall stay with one that says a or aa for traction ur gonna lose some on the treadwear but way better hook up and to me directional tires follow the grooves in the road too bad

  17. #57
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    ... watch craigslist.com i got my granatelli lid k&n filter and 85mm maf sensor for $200 on there found headers and an ory for 220 today barely had em on the car before he sold it got my wheels w the tires for 350 btw i didnt get the headers pay day next week

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    id stay away from packages theyre way expensive and youre just paying for the name as far as tires the treadwear and traction on the sidewall stay with one that says a or aa for traction ur gonna lose some on the treadwear but way better hook up and to me directional tires follow the grooves in the road too bad
    I am talking about the 200 bucks SLP cold air/blackwing, bellows kit. Not much money there.

    The tires are already on it and I like them. They follow grooves in the road etc. because they are wide. But I have always liked the grip of those tires in cornering and while super wide tires are never the ultimate for avoiding hydroplaning I have found them to displace water and resist hydroplaning better than others. This goes way back to my first Corvette when they had just come out with the Gatorbacks. With the Z-51 package that car handled like it was on rails. I still like New Vettes compared to other sports cars for the money. I cant afford one, but the WS6 was as good as it was going to get for what I could afford. I have owned lots of TA's and liked them but with advances in technology I like the one I have now better than any before. Living in Seattle we get a lot of rain so it is important to have tires that work well in the rain. I have owned LOTS of performance cars and lots of different tires and base my choices on experience. I drove several other WS6 cars with many other sorts of tires and none of them felt nearly as stable as the ones on the car I bought. I had one car hydroplane at very low speeds. The tires on supercars that have unlimited price tags are a pretty good indication of what they have found works best for the purpose. I am not going to be using the car to drag race or I would build it that way.

    I am sure your drag tires hook up great, but I would not want to select them for a SCCA type event which is much closer to my style of driving.

  19. #59
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    Gotcha on the slp package... I've had lots of good tires and the ones you have are good also... I had a set of gy eagle f1 with the directional pattern they hooked up great put water to the side decently but were terrible on following grooves I looked like a drunk driver unless I was on a new road lol they were only like 235 or 225 whatever is on a 00 v6 stang the tires I had before my drag radials can't remember the model but they were sumitomo non directional went down to 245 45 17 on front and kept the 275 40 on back they followed the grooves a lil bit but not much but if ya like what ya got stick with it I don't get alot of rain here or I'd have 2 more wheels with the drag radials so if it rains too bad I just jump in the truck

  20. #60
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    Do like em

    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    Gotcha on the slp package... I've had lots of good tires and the ones you have are good also... I had a set of gy eagle f1 with the directional pattern they hooked up great put water to the side decently but were terrible on following grooves I looked like a drunk driver unless I was on a new road lol they were only like 235 or 225 whatever is on a 00 v6 stang the tires I had before my drag radials can't remember the model but they were sumitomo non directional went down to 245 45 17 on front and kept the 275 40 on back they followed the grooves a lil bit but not much but if ya like what ya got stick with it I don't get alot of rain here or I'd have 2 more wheels with the drag radials so if it rains too bad I just jump in the truck
    I do like those F1's the car came with, I have put some pretty hard G forces on them without losing traction. While it is summer right now and has been 90 degrees out this is very hot for us and is a small part of our weather. Rain is huge part of our weather up here, it rarely snows where other tread patterns would be better, but these are not great snow cars anyway and many people either have snow tires or 4x4's and SUV's and such for those seldom times. So for my area they work great for me. Of course the wider the tire the more prone to hydroplaning so having tread that displaces water is even more important on the wide ones. Super expensive sports cars also have that techno-wizardry to help them out, we dont.

    It is the highest rated Dry, Wet traction that are typically the softer compounds with the dual AAA ratings. This usually means a shorter tire life so the mileage rating is likely lower. How the car is driven makes a big difference in the life too. The less wheel spin the better for both ET's and cost of tires.

    For where you live I think it is pretty hot most of the time? So your needs are a bit different than mine. Aside from the fact that you seem to like to drag race which makes perfect sense to have drag tires. I cant speak for the Mustangs suspension habits because I have only owned one, a 1971 Mach One with Goodyear Polyglas GT's! Just general experience and the various WS6 cars I have driven has dictated my tire choice for my performance cars. I know several people up here that have a set of wheels and tires they swap in the rear when they take their cars to the track.

    I will browse CL to see what is for sale, after I figure out exactly what I want, I have also had good luck with putting in Wanted ads, in fact that is how I found the low mileage car I did. It was not being advertised but the son knew his parents who were car collectors were sadly considering selling the car and replied to my ad and then I connected with the owners and went down to Oregon and drove it home.

    I know that many people start project cars and never finish them and if I could find new parts like I wanted for less that would be great. I have thought of looking for a LS6 manifold there. Non-essential items like music gear (electric guitar stuff) and motorcycles have been at much lower prices than usual for a couple of years now because of the economy. It is certainly worth checking out, of course the flakes on CL are a pain but that is part of CL. A new in the box procharger for cheap would be pretty cool.

    I am leaning towards that induction pac because the price is lower than some others and has more parts with it including those used on the Firehawks which seemed to work well when their times have been compared to stock TA's of the same year. When I asked the place that sold both that system and the more expensive Volant they also suggested the SLP package.
    I will decide what I want before buying things so it will all work together well.

    I dont quite understand why they put the openings on the WS6 hood but did not use a closed system or have them directly feed the airbox like on the 60's muscle car systems that sealed to the hood openings. GM has lots of engineers and millions of dollars designing things so I dont like to assume they dont know what they are doing, it would be nice to hear from one of the GM engineers on the subject though.

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