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Why are products for the 1998 not available?

This is a discussion on Why are products for the 1998 not available? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have noticed that several items, including those SLP "performance Pacs" only have a 350HP version while other years have ...

  1. #1
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Question Why are products for the 1998 not available?

    I have noticed that several items, including those SLP "performance Pacs" only have a 350HP version while other years have up to 400HP versions. These are the ones that include the Loudmouth exhaust and I believe a programmer etc.

    Are there no programmers for the 98's or just not from SLP?

    I would have to think that there are some out there.

    I am looking at induction and exhaust right now. My ultimate goal is to get the car to break in to the 12's while not making any changes that cant be reversed should I decide to sell the car sometime down the road. It is mint condition with 30,000 miles on it right now.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks in Advance

  2. #2
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    I have noticed that several items, including those SLP "performance Pacs" only have a 350HP version while other years have up to 400HP versions. These are the ones that include the Loudmouth exhaust and I believe a programmer etc.

    Are there no programmers for the 98's or just not from SLP?

    I would have to think that there are some out there.

    I am looking at induction and exhaust right now. My ultimate goal is to get the car to break in to the 12's while not making any changes that cant be reversed should I decide to sell the car sometime down the road. It is mint condition with 30,000 miles on it right now.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks in Advance
    im confused...your profile says a 2000. but anyways stay away from the slp packages. pick your package by hand from good trusted vendors.

    with that being said. the 98 pcm is a little different. in 99 they switched to a newer style pcm. that is why you dont see a lot of handheld tuners for 98s. Also do yourself a favor and not waste your money on a handheld tuner. get a dyno tune, or send your pcm into frost and he will give you a very good tune. that is what i did.

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    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    car changed

    Yeah I need to change that, was driving a red one, decided not to get it due to high mileage, just bought black 98 WS6 with 31K miles. Much happier. Just want to add power and be able to get it back stock if needed if it increases in value as a collectors car.

    I am looking in to what parts will make for a street car that runs in the 12's. Need to get the parts on before the tune.

    Yeah that was just an example, I had no plans to buy those products but it did seem like the odd car out when looking at many speed part shops. I know the small differences between the years so I was guessing it was the computer although I have also seen the 1999 being separated also.

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    I got a Hypertech Power Programmer III for my '98 back when it was the only handheld LS1 tuner on the market (before most shops learned how to tune w/ LS1edit). It wasn't until years later I realized the '98 PCM was unique.

    Johnny B - '98 "Triple Black" WS6 Convert, M6, All Options, ASC #3030 (1 of 50)
    KBDDSFC, DGM C/F Tonneau, MTI C/F Lid, K&N, HPP-III, 160 T-stat, Pro 5.0
    Link to Firebird Production Breakdowns

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    Member blackbird0230's Avatar
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    Breaking into 12's should be fairly easy. Just get headers and a lid and that should do it fairly easily.
    I'm just like you man I only wanna do mods that are reversable just in case but idk once I started I just want more.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbird0230 View Post
    Breaking into 12's should be fairly easy. Just get headers and a lid and that should do it fairly easily.
    I'm just like you man I only wanna do mods that are reversable just in case but idk once I started I just want more.
    no so much. i have yet to hit the 12s and i am pretty well modded ..once again i am a a4..so there is a big difference right there..on top of that both the op and i are 98s so we did not get the ls6 intake manifold..so it isnt that easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    I have noticed that several items, including those SLP "performance Pacs" only have a 350HP version while other years have up to 400HP versions. These are the ones that include the Loudmouth exhaust and I believe a programmer etc.

    Are there no programmers for the 98's or just not from SLP?

    I would have to think that there are some out there.

    I am looking at induction and exhaust right now. My ultimate goal is to get the car to break in to the 12's while not making any changes that cant be reversed should I decide to sell the car sometime down the road. It is mint condition with 30,000 miles on it right now.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks in Advance
    if you are a a4 it is going to take some work to get into the 12s...ask me how i know
    mods- suncoast creations hood with functional lt1 style airbox, ls6 intake, QTP longtube headers, QTP ORY, UMI SFC, Adj. LCA with relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, Koni SA and strano springs,Torq Thrust M 17s 9.5 and 10.5 with nitto 555Rs, tuned by Frost
    Quote Originally Posted by Modulistic View Post
    sometimes you get owned, sometimes you own.

  7. #7
    Member blackbird0230's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    no so much. i have yet to hit the 12s and i am pretty well modded ..once again i am a a4..so there is a big difference right there..on top of that both the op and i are 98s so we did not get the ls6 intake manifold..so it isnt that easy.



    if you are a a4 it is going to take some work to get into the 12s...ask me how i know
    Good point, I completely skimmed past the 98 ta thing. Get a stall then headers/exhaust, LS6 or better intake manifold, lid...damn autos are expensive lol

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbird0230 View Post
    Good point, I completely skimmed past the 98 ta thing. Get a stall then headers/exhaust, LS6 or better intake manifold, lid...damn autos are expensive lol
    yes they are

  9. #9
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Question It is an auto

    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    no so much. i have yet to hit the 12s and i am pretty well modded ..once again i am a a4..so there is a big difference right there..on top of that both the op and i are 98s so we did not get the ls6 intake manifold..so it isnt that easy.


    if you are a a4 it is going to take some work to get into the 12s...ask me how i know
    It is an auto, I drove manuals, it came down to this being my only car and with the commute traffic I have to start dealing with this fall my left leg would not be happy. I liked the manuals but in a different thread someone said I would be sorry if I got an auto and I am not.
    Also there are several things you can do with an auto you cant with a manual.

    Yup there is ALWAYS something bigger and badder no matter what, but I selected 12's as the stock drivetrain should handle it and that will beat most new expensive sports cars. I would be happy. Then if the cars value does go up I can perhaps get a newer car down the road. When I want to beat 200 grand sports cars right now I just ride my 1200CC Sportbike cause they dont run 10.0 second 1/4 miles, plus I can take the carpool lane.

    12's would be a happy medium for me. The car is like brand new and it cost me 10k to buy it with 31K miles so it was the most car I could buy for the money. Now I want to think hard about reversible modifications to go a bit faster. It is a fun car to drive stock, it just doesnt pin your ears back when you accelerate.

    In my several months of looking for one of these on CL, Ebay and other places I did notice that the people that had spent big bucks on heavy modifications including things like superchargers were not fetching ANY of that money back out of their cars, they were priced the same as a stocker and if they do gain value as much as us owners would like to think we all know a bone stock version with the lowest miles is going to be worth the most.

    For now the WS6 is considered by many (including me) the best bang for the buck.

    If you have the money it would be neat to have one to save and one to build but I could only afford the one...otherwise I would already be saving for a blower. Also handling is great and can be greater but with a live rear axle IMO it is never going to be a Z06 or better Vette. I love Vettes also but for my meager budget I am more than happy with what I could get for the money. IMHO Pontiac almost always gave us the slicker looking F-body...if only there was a 2010 TA I bet that would be even sweeter than the Camaro.

    I would love to hear what exact things people have done to get their cars to run 12's, the ones most easily reversible would be fantastic. I.E. what increase did a chip or tuner make in the 1/4 mile? Specific experiences have helped a bunch so far in my planning. I truly appreciate it.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    stall, headers, and a tune =12's for me

  11. #11
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I havea 98 TA A4. I got a set of lt headers, off road ypipe,SLP PowerFlo catback, volant CAI, ASP underdrive pulley set, 160 stat, LS6 intake off a newer TA, P&P throttle body Granatelli MAF(stock was bad), Walbro 225l pump(factory died on the dyno). It turned 339 with a rich dyno tune, now I got a new tune and along with 3.73's, tranny tuned, shift points raised to 6000rpm and that's the motor. The SLP pacs are a joke and so are those handhelds. Either do a mail tune with frost after headers and mods or any local tuner you trust.
    I haven't got to the track since I have no helmets but I have raced high 12 cars and kept up or won. I plan on a 3400 stall and cam and then mid to low 12's depending on when the 10 bolt braks again.
    I also have BMR springs, KYB AGX shocks, Spohn sway bar set, UMI double adj. panhards and LCA package with LCA relocation brackets.
    Plent of 98 parts just the computer tunes some things differetly according to my guy bit it spins 1st easy at part throttle and chirps second hard with 18x10" 275/35 bfg kdw nt's
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
    Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    stall, headers, and a tune =12's for me
    Agreed, unless there is some unusual factor like high DA or poor driver.

  13. #13
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Part recommendations?

    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    Agreed, unless there is some unusual factor like high DA or poor driver.
    Since I have a 98 it does not have the slightly better exhaust manifolds of the last couple of years. Good quality headers might make sense. As for the rest of the exhaust my local shop suggested that I would not benefit much from a cat back system for the price but to just install a different muffler.

    What are suggestions for the headers of choice?

    How about where to get a deal on a LS6 manifold?

    Keep in mind that where I live, in Washington State, we have fairly strict emissions laws. For my year vehicle they did the test by hooking in to the diagnostic port to ensure that every emissions system was working properly, other cars it is based upon actual emissions output from the exhaust.

    Also I have heard of members having trouble with their O2 sensor readings with some aftermarket exhaust components.

    I would need something that would support the stock emissions equipment.

    I will make a separate post but this area is not overflowing with Domestic car Dyno tuners as some other places have, I will be seeking one out in the Puget Sound (Seattle Area).

    Also I would be interested in fitment quality and how easily they are to install on the 98 WS6, I have not had the car long enough to work on it. For example I own a 93 Lincoln Mark VIII that has a stock 300HP 4.6L DOHC motor which runs great but due to the design even changing spark plugs is a real task even with a lift.

  14. #14
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    Since I have a 98 it does not have the slightly better exhaust manifolds of the last couple of years. Good quality headers might make sense. As for the rest of the exhaust my local shop suggested that I would not benefit much from a cat back system for the price but to just install a different muffler.

    What are suggestions for the headers of choice?

    How about where to get a deal on a LS6 manifold?

    Keep in mind that where I live, in Washington State, we have fairly strict emissions laws. For my year vehicle they did the test by hooking in to the diagnostic port to ensure that every emissions system was working properly, other cars it is based upon actual emissions output from the exhaust.

    Also I have heard of members having trouble with their O2 sensor readings with some aftermarket exhaust components.

    I would need something that would support the stock emissions equipment.

    I will make a separate post but this area is not overflowing with Domestic car Dyno tuners as some other places have, I will be seeking one out in the Puget Sound (Seattle Area).

    Also I would be interested in fitment quality and how easily they are to install on the 98 WS6, I have not had the car long enough to work on it. For example I own a 93 Lincoln Mark VIII that has a stock 300HP 4.6L DOHC motor which runs great but due to the design even changing spark plugs is a real task even with a lift.
    i can tell you what...if you have the stock catback (single outlet) KEEP IT! dont mod it, dont touch it in any way. if you want a catback (you should) make sure that the dont molest the oem catback and keep it. get a nice catback some arh headers and ory and you will be extremely happy.
    find a intake manifold used..they go for about $300-$400..what is nice is you can sell it for the same price you bought it for whenever you decide to go with something else.

    i know what you mean about the not pining your ears back...that is due to the stall and the gearing and your tune. fix them

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    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Bone Stock now

    Right now it looks just like it came off the showroom floor. Was kept by car collectors. Thanks for the tips on the brands so I can check them out. I think the SLP cold air pac sounds best though I still wish I could see them in person, but those can be put back stock. I have not looked under the car yet but it is stock, has dual outlets but I think stock single. I emailed Frost about the chip and results and he seemed confident that the headers and stall and chip would cut a second off the 1/4 without trouble. From the information I have read the stock drive train can take up to 400Hp without breaking but I think I can reach my goals with a bit less than that. I dont have a lot of money to replace things like transmissions any time soon, one reason I went with the 30,000 mile car.

    I will get it figured out and as my goals are pretty reasonable IMO I will be happy with those items and hope the car will last a long while. If I were to do much more than that it would make more sense to save up for a blower running low boost.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    Right now it looks just like it came off the showroom floor. Was kept by car collectors. Thanks for the tips on the brands so I can check them out. I think the SLP cold air pac sounds best though I still wish I could see them in person, but those can be put back stock. I have not looked under the car yet but it is stock, has dual outlets but I think stock single. I emailed Frost about the chip and results and he seemed confident that the headers and stall and chip would cut a second off the 1/4 without trouble. From the information I have read the stock drive train can take up to 400Hp without breaking but I think I can reach my goals with a bit less than that. I dont have a lot of money to replace things like transmissions any time soon, one reason I went with the 30,000 mile car.

    I will get it figured out and as my goals are pretty reasonable IMO I will be happy with those items and hope the car will last a long while. If I were to do much more than that it would make more sense to save up for a blower running low boost.

    if the cars exhaust doesnt look like this ^ then it has been molested and has lost the majority of its collectivity

  17. #17
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Dont Know

    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    Click for full size
    if the cars exhaust doesnt look like this ^ then it has been molested and has lost the majority of its collectivity
    Like I said I honestly have not had time to even wash the car yet let alone look under the car. I will find out if it is stock, it does have 2 outlets that look exactly like your one but I am not going to really know until I get it in the air and have more information with me. The owners were the original ones, collect cars, have original stock Hemi Cudas bought new etc. and said they did not modify anything. I will find out for sure but really I think these cars (other than the zero mileage ones) is pure speculation as to future value, I own one so of course I am hoping years down the road it will increase in value, but I bought the one I did with the super low mileage partially hoping to keep it a relatively low mileage car 10 plus years down the road, but also so it wont have nearly as much wear on parts as a high mileage car. I am pretty confident that if I keep the miles low and everything in mint condition I will be able to get at least my 10 grand back out of it. Just not depreciating more is better than most cars. Only time will tell how things pan out though. But either way I do intend to drive my car and have fun with it, I dont believe in owning cars and just towing them to shows, that is not fun for me. I have found that even now the cars that have been modified and had lots of money spent on them are not recovering that money when they go to sell them. Going the route suggested by most will probably be within budget for me, easy to make stock again if needed, and give me a level of quickness I will be happy with. I dont know of a better performing car for the money, so I am happy no matter what.

  18. #18
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    good deal..keep her pristine

  19. #19
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Thanks, I intend to. Just got back from the store with washing products and did the car, I am about 2 pound lighter because of the sweating. This is a car I wont just run through the car wash. I love the black color but it is the most difficult to keep looking clean.

    I am not rich so it was a big cash purchase for me and most of the time that means appreciating something more when it is not so easy to get.

    Good luck to you as well.

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    ive got a lid and k&n filter but i felt a better difference with the 85mm maf sensor it actually made the car run funny til it got used to the air and the traction bars BIG plus on take off with drag radials i cant hardly break loose

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