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Whats to do next?

This is a discussion on Whats to do next? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I recently had American Racing Longtubes with true duals added to my car, after the tune the car put down ...

  1. #1
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    Whats to do next?

    I recently had American Racing Longtubes with true duals added to my car, after the tune the car put down 356/369. I'm now in modification mode and just want to know others opinions on what they would do next. As always any feedback is much appreciated!

  2. #2
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    99 WS.6 - Modified

    SFCs, torque arm, rear end, ect. Build a good drivetrain to handle any power you add. It'll save a lot of headaches.

  3. #3
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    2001 WS6 M6

    What's your goals for the car?

    How much mechanical ability do you have?

    How much money do you have to spend?

  4. #4
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    Allready have SFCs, my goal is just a simple H/C car. I dont want any forced induction. My mechanical ability is decent, but lack of tools and such limits me so most of my stuff is done at the local performance shop.

    As far as money goes....errrr i would say i have several Gs to spend at the absolute most, i also must take installation fees into major consideration.

  5. #5
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    LCA's, LCA relocation brackets, aftermarket clutch, aftermarket shifter, rear end, torque arm, PHB...basically anything that will a) help you get more power to the ground and b) at the same time beef up your suspension and drive train so you're not breaking stuff when you add an extra 100+rwhp with H/C/I.

    Or, take the less smart route and add power now and wait for stuff to break...

    P&P TB, under drive pulley (not a fan of these though), lid, set of 243 ported and polished heads, a cam...

  6. #6
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Or, take the less smart route and add power now and wait for stuff to break...
    If your not taking this route, my suggestion is a new rear end (need a new drive shaft typically too). Followed with the torque arm, LCA's with relocation brackets and then panhard. Maybe even the relocation for the transmission mount with a drive shaft safety loop. If there's still some cash to blow, some sticky tires if your into the track.

    That's several thousand right there, and your looking at a new animal with all that.

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I think we can seriously spend other ppls $$

  8. #8
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I think we can seriously spend other ppls $$
    Live our dreams through other people's lives, lol.

  9. #9
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I have a MS3 cam with supporting mods and my 10 bolt is almost dead again. Get a good 9", 12 bolt, or Dana depends on deal and preference. I know people with all and they like them. i am going 9" this fall. Rear before cam trust me I learned from real work exp and I don't even track the car just cruises and a couple mexico runs.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
    Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
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  10. #10
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    I definately need a clutch, what is the main differences between the aftermarket rears and the prices of them

  11. #11
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    These are a couple of stickies in the drive train section of the site:

    Differences between: Locker,Limited slip, Spool

    Rear End FAQ!

    When will my 10 bolt break?

    Since you are a M6, most people will suggest a 9". There is Moser and MWC.

    Any aftermarket rear end like the above mentioned or even a 12 bolt will probably run in the ballpark of $2500.

  12. #12
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    If I buy the supporting mods to the ten bolt, would it really be necessary to buy a whole new rear end? There pretty pricey and I really want a new cam haha

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    your wasting your money doing that because in the end your going to end up replacing the rear.


    Also they aren't saying not to get a cam, just be prepare in the long run to be getting a rear. They've been know to go even under stock power.

    I'd say the rule of thumb is over 400 RWHP it's not if but when your rear will go out.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 06-24-2011 at 02:17 PM.

  14. #14
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I broke the stock 3.23's on my A4 after bolt on's and tune within a year with just a couple weekend rides a month. Put in a 3.73 with a rebuild kit and installed the cam, stall and it lkasted a couple months but after a couple harde weekends cruising and hard driving it is almost gone. Car is a toy so I held off on the rear but didn't know it was going to start going bad in less than 1k after the cam. no track runs just weekend cruises and meets. Do a cam it's awsome but with a M6 your rear will go faster since once you get the cam the new power is to much fun not to use. Thinking back wish I did the rear before the cam.

  15. #15
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    RyanJM.....sounds like you know exactly the kind of dilemna im in right now, for now im getting a level 2 monster clutch, then hopefully a 9inch moser rear. I just hope i can stick to that plan. haha

  16. #16
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    What pushed me was a got a sweet deal for my MS3 cam off a friend who decided to change his build for his C5. So I was already doing the stall and said screw it I'll do the cam too. Really wish I threw the cam in the closet and stalled it after the 9".

  17. #17
    Bullet Boy Same ol Situation's Avatar
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    2002 CETA m6

    Quote Originally Posted by RyanJM View Post
    What pushed me was a got a sweet deal for my MS3 cam off a friend who decided to change his build for his C5. So I was already doing the stall and said screw it I'll do the cam too. Really wish I threw the cam in the closet and stalled it after the 9".
    How is the driveability of the ms3 cam? I've been looking into that cam

  18. #18
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Depends on how good your tuner is...

  19. #19
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    My car runs great with the cam. Just make sure you have a good tuner and the right set of gears out back to stay in the powerband. Drives fine in traffic and when you get out if it and open it up it really starts pulling after 3500 all the way till my 6500rpm shift point I have the car set at. Still pulling when my car shifts but i don't want to run past 65oo or 6600 with a stock block. I have the 98 with the older heads and a LS6 intake I got off a 02. With a set of proted heads I can only imagine how much an improvment it would make. I am going to swap a larger 90mm MAF and bigger intake later. Waiting to see to if I can find a good deal on a FAST 90 or 92 with TB since that's all I need for that motor.
    Last edited by RyanJM; 06-26-2011 at 07:40 PM.

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