Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 33 of 33

whats the deal with my turn signal?

This is a discussion on whats the deal with my turn signal? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ive got the same issue. i can see the moisture on the lense. Originally Posted by Monster-Inside i had the ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member grouch0jr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Age
    33
    Posts
    2,055

    Black
    2001 Firebird TransAm WS6

    ive got the same issue. i can see the moisture on the lense.

    Quote Originally Posted by Monster-Inside View Post
    i had the same problem it was just water building up in the socket due to a bad seal
    how did you fix the seal? was it the seal between the socket and the housing?

  2. #22
    Member dbrichrider33333's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hebron, IN
    Posts
    180

    Yellow
    2002 CETA

    ya my housing is cracked and moisture gets in and corroded/burned the socket. how do you replace the actual housing??

  3. #23
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake Geneva, WI
    Posts
    1,539

    Red
    98 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by 02WS6dream View Post
    before you do that... this is a common problem that i've seen many threads on since i fixed mine. It could be your flasher i suppose... but more commonly the socket gets exposed to moisture due to these poorly designed housings that you say you have had to seal. Look at the socket that the bulb fits into for corrosion. I replaced the housings themselves, the sockets, and the bulbs. The only problem i've had since then (1 year) is that the sockets i bought were aftermarket and the bulb doesn't fit as snug as i'd like and has lost contact 2 or three times. Fixed by simply pushing the bulb in firmly; no more moisture or corrosion. I suggest you look into this before replacing the flasher.
    Ive done the whole clean it out thing but i did the opposite where i actually pushed the bulb all the way in and then i pull it out like not even a 1/8" Some thing was funny with mine and i cleaned it one day AND put a new bulb in and it still was not blinking, or it was just blink when it wanted to. I thought it was loose. So i shoved it ws far as i could but it stilll was just solid. I wiggled it a bit and pulled it out just ever so and it stays put and it blinks like it should. No scorching or anything like that. Went to Georgia and back from wisconsin and no probs. Oh and as you drive water, (if you drive in the rain and give it a few years in my case 10) and the blinker houses actually crack and (micro you can only see it if you force air into it from the outside) water starts to push its way in, as well as moisture from humidity and what not and after a while you got your self a blinker slushy, Mmmmm tasty.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,170

    Black
    2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT

    Most of the time the water gets in from above, not the front cracks like people think or where the bulb/socket assembly fits into the lamp housing. It can get thru the front if the cracks are big enough, but usually the water gets in from the top of the housing. Since the DRLs are always on, they get hot, and the heat warps/cracks the top of the housing. If you take the whole housing out, (easy to do with a 7mm hex nut driver, there are only 2 bolts holding it in from below), you will see the cracking on the top. I've sealed my cracks, and now no more moisture in the lamp socket, and no water to drip on top of the bulb causing it to shatter.

  5. #25
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake Geneva, WI
    Posts
    1,539

    Red
    98 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Most of the time the water gets in from above, not the front cracks like people think or where the bulb/socket assembly fits into the lamp housing. It can get thru the front if the cracks are big enough, but usually the water gets in from the top of the housing. Since the DRLs are always on, they get hot, and the heat warps/cracks the top of the housing. If you take the whole housing out, (easy to do with a 7mm hex nut driver, there are only 2 bolts holding it in from below), you will see the cracking on the top. I've sealed my cracks, and now no more moisture in the lamp socket, and no water to drip on top of the bulb causing it to shatter.
    never thought of that +1, im gonna have to try that. What did you use to seal it with?

  6. #26
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,170

    Black
    2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT

    I used some RTV gasket maker to seal mine. Just ran it along the crack. I like running my finger along the crack!

  7. #27
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake Geneva, WI
    Posts
    1,539

    Red
    98 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    I used some RTV gasket maker to seal mine. Just ran it along the crack. I like running my finger along the crack!
    looks like i gotta rub some cracks then

  8. #28
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    77

    Red
    2000 Trans AM

    If the light is solid on ur cluster it may be ur drl module, simple $12 fix, worth a try.

  9. #29
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    2

    Red
    1994 Firebird 3.4

    Thumbs up Very helpful picture.

    right On!
    Last edited by Pancake Mechanic; 03-19-2010 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Wrong thread

  10. #30
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Frederick, MD
    Posts
    9

    brian.mayer@gmail.com
    2001 Pontiac TA WS6 Vert

    Quote Originally Posted by 02WS6dream View Post
    before you do that... this is a common problem that i've seen many threads on since i fixed mine. It could be your flasher i suppose... but more commonly the socket gets exposed to moisture due to these poorly designed housings that you say you have had to seal. Look at the socket that the bulb fits into for corrosion. I replaced the housings themselves, the sockets, and the bulbs. The only problem i've had since then (1 year) is that the sockets i bought were aftermarket and the bulb doesn't fit as snug as i'd like and has lost contact 2 or three times. Fixed by simply pushing the bulb in firmly; no more moisture or corrosion. I suggest you look into this before replacing the flasher.
    Hey bro,

    What are the part numbers to replace the housings, sockets, and bulbs?

    Thanks!
    B

  11. #31
    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Age
    54
    Posts
    15,589

    Arctic White
    2000 Camaro Z28

    Quote Originally Posted by shdowflare View Post
    Hey bro,

    What are the part numbers to replace the housings, sockets, and bulbs?

    Thanks!
    B
    The post your replied to, is from 2007

  12. #32
    Junior Member TexasWS6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7

    Black
    2001 WS6 Trans Am

    I realize this thread is really old, but...you can use tail light sockets from a 1998 Monte Carlo as turn signal sockets for f bodies. Part #85881. Works great and much cheaper. I picked up two at oreilley for $7 each

  13. #33
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Muncie, IN
    Posts
    2,554

    00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM
    80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM

    Quote Originally Posted by TexasWS6 View Post
    I realize this thread is really old, but...you can use tail light sockets from a 1998 Monte Carlo as turn signal sockets for f bodies. Part #85881. Works great and much cheaper. I picked up two at oreilley for $7 each
    Good tip and only $3.22 on Rockauto!!
    2000 TA, A4, LS6 intake, Magnaflow, WS9 hood, BMR STB, UMI boxed SFC, Spohn LCA, 9" Ford
    1998 TA Vert,​ NBM, M6, Flowmaster, WS6 hood, WS6 airbox, C6 wheels, UMI SFC, BMR STB
    1998 Bird, Black, V6, A4, 18" 077's, Wings West Body Kit
    1980 Formula, NBM, 402BB, cam, DR timing, LT headers, 3" TD w/ flowmasters, TH350
    1980 TA, Black, 301, bone stock

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Question: turn signal keeps going out.
    By dav-02ws6-m6 in forum General Help
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-02-2012, 03:19 AM
  2. Turn Signal
    By edrvsqz1980 in forum Firebird / WS6
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 11-15-2010, 06:58 PM
  3. Help: help with turn signal
    By danmeksch in forum Camaro / SS
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-19-2010, 03:25 PM
  4. Turn Signal
    By Z28boy2000 in forum Stereo and Electronics
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-30-2009, 12:36 PM
  5. Turn signal help
    By Blksilvr in forum General Help
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-08-2007, 05:46 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •