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What next?

This is a discussion on What next? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey I have a 2000 Trans Am WS6. Just installed 1-7/8" TSP LT's with a TSP ORY. I have a ...

  1. #1
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    Champagne
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    What next?

    Hey I have a 2000 Trans Am WS6. Just installed 1-7/8" TSP LT's with a TSP ORY. I have a SLP lid on its way. Besides that I am stock. What do you guys think should be my next move for some rwhp gains?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    It's a very common question asked here.

    Opinions will very. Some things you'll get asked by the veteran member's:

    Major questions:
    What is it you want? Street/Drag/DD/Show or combo? Each have it's pros/cons and routes to a successful build.
    Budget? - This dictates what you can do, how it gets done, and how long it takes. "Fast/Cheap/Reliable - pick 2" is a good example.
    Goals? - Set mini-goals to accomplish the main one. Most builds last 2-4 yrs (all depending on budget) Mine has easily taking that plus some. If I count when I started then I'm almost at 6. If you look at my signature you'll see I've been busy with it. It also has 2 links on my 8.8 and engine builds.

    Abilities - Can you do the work or will you need to pay a shop.
    Tools/work space? - do you have them....

    Once you made up your mind research the hell out of it. Make a realistic budget. Time - you want it quick be prepare to pay. My engine build took almost 2 yrs because of the unexpected. Hell it's been technically up for 9 months now and I'm still fixing issues. Found a major one last week that has been keeping me from getting it tuned properly. One simple issue has added about $900 in tuning fees alone and will cost me another $550 when I'm able to go back to try again.


    Going fast is fun as long as the car can handle it. You can have a ton of power but if it doesn't get traction you are just burning tires.

    Suspension - 2 or 3 pt sub frame connectors. More pwr the car will flex. The Stock torque arm is ok for stock power, going to want a beefer one to help keep the rear planted, Lower Control Arms too. Pan Hard bar is not so critical till you get a track or street build. Springs & shocks are also recommended here. Front end not so critical to touch unless you are building a street/drag car.

    Major weak point - the POS 10 bolt rear. They are prone to fail with stock power and a M6, get hot day & sticky tires (drag radials/slicks) and you are just begging to kill that 10bolt. 12bolt/8.8"/9"/Dana60 are all good upgrades, each has their pro's/cons/cost.

    Transmission - M6 - get a stg 2 rebuild from Tick, it beef's up the weal points in the tranny, A4 - 4L60e is ok, but for track/street you'll want to get it beefed up or look for another tranny that will take the abuse. Stall to match the power from the engine.

    Engine - to many ways to skin this so I'll wait for you answers on the above questions.

    Last thing - I see you live in Cali (I'm sorry). This will also dictate what you can do. Cali has some draconian laws/regs on cars and hot rodding.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  3. #3
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Fast and reliable are the best 2 to pick =)
    It's on jackstands.

  4. #4
    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    Black
    2000 WS6 Trans AM

    I did bolt-ons (see Signature) then moved to some suspension and stability. no point in having all that power if you can't hook! looking to do heads/cam this spring if the budget allows! Or buy an 06+ Z06
    Last edited by 1998 T/A; 01-13-2016 at 07:39 AM.
    98' Trans AM RIP

    00' WS6/Black/Pacesetter LT's/Magnaflow Exhaust/SLP lid/Nick Williams 92mm TB/FAST 92 Intake/BMR Strut Tower Brace/BMR Rear LCA's/BMR Panhard Bar

  5. #5
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Here's the order I went:

    - lid
    - exhaust
    - headers/subframe connectors/lower control arms/torque arm
    - tune
    - transmission/clutch/shifter
    - line lock
    - 9" and driveshaft
    - pan hard bar with relocation kit
    - shocks and springs
    - go fast parts/driveshaft safety loop
    - tune
    - rotors/brake pads/brake lines
    - tires

  6. #6
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    Champagne
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    It's a very common question asked here.

    Opinions will very. Some things you'll get asked by the veteran member's:

    Major questions:
    What is it you want? Street/Drag/DD/Show or combo? Each have it's pros/cons and routes to a successful build.
    Budget? - This dictates what you can do, how it gets done, and how long it takes. "Fast/Cheap/Reliable - pick 2" is a good example.
    Goals? - Set mini-goals to accomplish the main one. Most builds last 2-4 yrs (all depending on budget) Mine has easily taking that plus some. If I count when I started then I'm almost at 6. If you look at my signature you'll see I've been busy with it. It also has 2 links on my 8.8 and engine builds.

    Abilities - Can you do the work or will you need to pay a shop.
    Tools/work space? - do you have them....

    Once you made up your mind research the hell out of it. Make a realistic budget. Time - you want it quick be prepare to pay. My engine build took almost 2 yrs because of the unexpected. Hell it's been technically up for 9 months now and I'm still fixing issues. Found a major one last week that has been keeping me from getting it tuned properly. One simple issue has added about $900 in tuning fees alone and will cost me another $550 when I'm able to go back to try again.


    Going fast is fun as long as the car can handle it. You can have a ton of power but if it doesn't get traction you are just burning tires.

    Suspension - 2 or 3 pt sub frame connectors. More pwr the car will flex. The Stock torque arm is ok for stock power, going to want a beefer one to help keep the rear planted, Lower Control Arms too. Pan Hard bar is not so critical till you get a track or street build. Springs & shocks are also recommended here. Front end not so critical to touch unless you are building a street/drag car.

    Major weak point - the POS 10 bolt rear. They are prone to fail with stock power and a M6, get hot day & sticky tires (drag radials/slicks) and you are just begging to kill that 10bolt. 12bolt/8.8"/9"/Dana60 are all good upgrades, each has their pro's/cons/cost.

    Transmission - M6 - get a stg 2 rebuild from Tick, it beef's up the weal points in the tranny, A4 - 4L60e is ok, but for track/street you'll want to get it beefed up or look for another tranny that will take the abuse. Stall to match the power from the engine.

    Engine - to many ways to skin this so I'll wait for you answers on the above questions.

    Last thing - I see you live in Cali (I'm sorry). This will also dictate what you can do. Cali has some draconian laws/regs on cars and hot rodding.
    Thanks for the replies! I'm looking for more of a street car that I can still use as my daily driver. I'm a 19 year old working full time and going to school full time. So I'm not trying to put all of my money into the car. But....car parts. I've done everything to the car myself and can do most of the work myself. When it comes to a cam, I don't really know if I can do that myself.

    When I said the cars stock I should have rephrased. I was asking for some performance mods to help with some RWHP gains so I was talking about engine components. What is done to the car is
    -Lowered 1-1/2" on adjustable springs
    -Short throw shifter
    -TSP 1-7/8 LT's and TSP ORY
    -K&N air filter
    -Muffler delete

    I was thinking about doing some chassis work and working on the suspension but the car is simply not fast enough with what is done. It's not like I'm losing traction from a dig. So i don't really need drag radials at the moment. Just looking for some more hp gains. Thinkin about gettin a bigger throttle body and a ls6 intake or maybe a better one? What do you guys think? Maybe a torque converter too?

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    A ported stock TB and a LS6 intake will get you a small bump.

    Cam is a medium level task, their are some things you need to be very careful doing but it's not too difficult to do. With stock 241 heads (IRC) you won't get to much gains but the cam will bump it up a bit more, if you throw on some 243 heads You'll gain more HP/TQ. You have a few ways to get there on a budget. I picked my 243 heads for $400 used for the pair. I "invested" $150 in machinist work for new valve guides, setup the springs, lap the valves & make sure they were level.

    If you do a cam do an oil pump as well.

  8. #8
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    You mentioned you got a short-throw shifter so I'm assuming the car is a manual? If so, there's no torque converter. That would only be on an automatic.

    A torque converter (aka stall), however, is a very good mod for a car equipped with an automatic transmission. Probably one of the best mods for the money.

    If I were in your shoes, and quite frankly, most of us have been, I'd probably upgrade the intake. It's a great mod and will better support any future mods you do down the road. The downfall is the LS6 intakes hold their value as it's a great intake so you'll still likely pay top dollar for one even though they're upwards of 15 yrs old.

    Do not, I repeat, do not mess with the MAF. Leave it stock.

  9. #9
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Do not, I repeat, do not mess with the MAF. Leave it stock.
    ^^^^^This. Either stay with the stock MAF OR go Speed Density tune. For mild bolt ons and stock stay with the MAF.

  10. #10
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    Champagne
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    You mentioned you got a short-throw shifter so I'm assuming the car is a manual? If so, there's no torque converter. That would only be on an automatic.

    A torque converter (aka stall), however, is a very good mod for a car equipped with an automatic transmission. Probably one of the best mods for the money.

    If I were in your shoes, and quite frankly, most of us have been, I'd probably upgrade the intake. It's a great mod and will better support any future mods you do down the road. The downfall is the LS6 intakes hold their value as it's a great intake so you'll still likely pay top dollar for one even though they're upwards of 15 yrs old.

    Do not, I repeat, do not mess with the MAF. Leave it stock.
    Sounds good I think I'll move to a ls6 intake and ported throttle body next. When do you guys suggest I get a tune? I feel I am too stock to spend the money for a tune so I was gonna do a few more bolt ons then get a tune

  11. #11
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    For that much bolt on's everyone here is going to recommend a Frost tune. Tunebyfrost.com

  12. #12
    Member cowstandmoto's Avatar
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    Dark Blue Metallic
    2002 Trans Am WS6 M6

    Hi Wyatt. Welcome to LS1. I just did everything at once. It took me about a year to do it. I could only work on it on weekends. But if you have the ability to do it yourself, you will save a bunch of money.

  13. #13
    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Silver Metallic
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    Since you upgraded the exhaust which is always a good enjoyable enhancement, Build up the suspension and enjoy the OEM power for now. Firm it up so the body doesn't get destroyed by the power. Then continue onto the rear end, driveshaft, trans, then engine. Safest bet.
    2000 Trans Am WS.6 M6

    SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, UMI Adj. TQ arm w/ relocation kit, Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays

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