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Turn Signal Socket- Where to Buy

This is a discussion on Turn Signal Socket- Where to Buy within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey, just an afterthought, Matt- seal your bulbs in the sockets, then install in the fascia....

  1. #21
    weberje
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    Hey, just an afterthought, Matt- seal your bulbs in the sockets, then install in the fascia.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raynor139 View Post
    Probably could have argued till blue in the face and still would of gotten it. My driving record is a little on the long side though clean for 3 years now, well it was until today, but they dont care all they see is the dozen or so speeding tickets, multiple wrecks and a street racing ticket that got reduced to excessive speeding on my record from my more wreckless days.
    COP = BUTT MUNCH

  3. #23
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    Hi, I Have Had The Same Problems As All Of You. My Problems Come From Going Through The Car Wash And The Running Lights Are So Hot They Crack The Lenses. Then They Fill Up With Water Ruining The Sockets At 70.00. I Want To Know If There Is A Way To Disconnect The Running Lights?????

  4. #24
    weberje
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    Fuse?

  5. #25
    Member Mike's TA's Avatar
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    I don't know where to get them, but there are some kits that allow you to have full control over all of your lights. ie.... having the low and high beams on at the same time, having fog lights on when high beams are on, as well as turning off running lights.

    I'm sure you can do a search on the forums to find it.

  6. #26
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Red face Signal Housing Moisture

    Thanks for the afterthought buddy!!!.

    Well, this past weekend I took out the front signal housing and buffed the lens up with high grit and buffed them to a shine. I replaced both of the sockets.

    Was planning on properly sealing the bulb in the socket with some sort of putty etc... but I didn't... felt it would be a messed if I ever had to replace the bulb in the future. I didn't want to scrape out the seal between the socket contact point etc.

    Certainly, those lens gap themselves from the housing permitting water to enter. I ended up drilling 3 holes on top and below the housing to permit water evaporation. Without these holes, the water will evap and contain itself around the metal contact points from the emitted light heat. Honestly, drilling should do it.

    At any rate, I'm still having blinker problem.... it blinks 4 or 5 times then comes to a halt. All that work and still problem. I'm thinking it's a faulty Flasher....... I replaced the bulbs too. What do you think? It could be the turn signal switch but don't want to deal with that as any time soon. Couldn't be the switch for the blinking begins every time I throw the switch.

    Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by weberje View Post
    Hey, just an afterthought, Matt- seal your bulbs in the sockets, then install in the fascia.

  7. #27
    weberje
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    Yep, I'd go for the flasher switch.
    I was very relieved when I found the post.
    I actually have this same problem too and am soon to tackle it. When I bought the car a year ago, signals were working. A few months, one side went out, then finally the other. I have only put 4,000 miles on it as I just drive it to and from base everyday to work. Keep me posted if you come up with anything.

  8. #28
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Post Flasher #LF12

    I purchased mine 3 months ago and have had numerous big and small problems, all from a typical used vehicle. I have an 11,000 mile 2001 TA sitting in my garage without any of these problems. I drive it once a month and wash it twice a year, meaning, if you don't use the vehicle and submit it to the environment, there will be no problems.

    I'll keep you posted........ there is nothing worse when you replacing a part on a vehicle and find out that it's not the problem!!! It happen to me twice this week on the Trans Am and a Saturn.

    By the way, the TA has a Hazard Flasher and a Signal Flasher......Turn on your Hazard and see if they work. If they do and the signal don't, it's a good indication the signal Flasher is bad. Both of these flashers are located under the dash inside the panel where your knees are at. You only can get to them based on the touch and feel as I have read.

    Flashers are 8.99 at Autozone with part # LF12 or EL12.


    Will pick them up today and replace them this weekend. Will let you know the result.

    Matthew

  9. #29
    weberje
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    I checked- the hazards work in the rear. Nothing up front w/ light out. turn on lights and see a very faint flash for hazards. Whenever hit turn signal, indicator on dash stays lit, and nothin happens. I'm just gonna buy new sockets, bulbs, and the friggin flasher. Hm, $9 for the flasher? What is the switch I've heard about? I went to advance auto parts and they had to order it for like $70-$80!

  10. #30
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    Thanks for the info.

  11. #31
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Wink The Signal Switch

    Your front sockets are bad and giving off bad relaying to the back.... Sockets, bulbs and flasher are the way to go. You will probably spend at least half a day with the installation. You should purchase some wire plugs to join the new wires for the socket.

    The switch I'm referring to is in the steering column at the end of signal lever. I wouldn't want go that far as of yet. To main to dig inside of the steering column.

    By the way, I'm tempted to take apart my rear light assembly to see if socket is bad back there....... but I'm holding off until after the flasher. Don't think it easily goes bad back there, then again, I may be wrong.

    Matthew
    P.S. What a damn pain for signals huh? Typically I wouldn't even signal unless I past another vehicle at close range or a Police Officer is on my tail.

    Quote Originally Posted by weberje View Post
    I checked- the hazards work in the rear. Nothing up front w/ light out. turn on lights and see a very faint flash for hazards. Whenever hit turn signal, indicator on dash stays lit, and nothin happens. I'm just gonna buy new sockets, bulbs, and the friggin flasher. Hm, $9 for the flasher? What is the switch I've heard about? I went to advance auto parts and they had to order it for like $70-$80!

  12. #32
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Post Relay Flasher Replacement- Detail/Conclusion

    Hello Slick!!!

    I took out the underdash knee bolster panel out to replace the flasher today.... based on what people said on this forum, I assumed it be difficult to get to, but that was not the case. Really simple... remove the 2 screws and 2 7mm bolts and the pen comes out.

    There is a clip on the right and left of the underside plastic lining. They are visible if you stick your head in underneath the steering column. Use a standard screwdriver to pop up the right clip to reveal the turn signal flasher.

    I was afraid that the flasher would not resolve the light blinking... but it blinked really well upon replacement to my relief.

    If you blinker don't blink or blinks a couple time and stops, it's the relay flasher. What happen is that the relay contact point are not releasing, thus, the light does not blink and stays lit.

    By the way, the cheapest place to buy the bulbs is at Walmart.. you can pick up 2 orange G.E. ones for $2.00 I picked up the same one at an autopart store and they were retailing it for at leat $8 bucks.

    Take care of that and the socket to get your vehicle back to standards,
    Matthew

  13. #33
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    The autozone sockets are definitely not as high quality as the GM $70 replacements. However, so far I haven't had any trouble with the autozone sockets.

    Car washes should not be a problem unless your housing has a leak. I don't buy the theory that the car wash is the problem. The lenses are recessed into the bumper so they shouldn't be exposed to anything harsh enough to break it. For some reason the lenses get vertical separations/cracks which allow water to enter.

  14. #34
    weberje
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    Outstanding! Thanx for the gouge. I will certainly get on it. Add it to the list of things to do. I have started making knives again. Been two years since I made one, but now have school just about wrapped up.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starion View Post
    The autozone sockets are definitely not as high quality as the GM $70 replacements. However, so far I haven't had any trouble with the autozone sockets.

    Car washes should not be a problem unless your housing has a leak. I don't buy the theory that the car wash is the problem. The lenses are recessed into the bumper so they shouldn't be exposed to anything harsh enough to break it. For some reason the lenses get vertical separations/cracks which allow water to enter.
    I had mine in for about 6 months it been working fine

  16. #36
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    Unhappy Their Money

    The original socket I took out didn't seem to have that quality either. I can't imagine forking over $70 bucks for something that will eventually rust away by any mean. I definitely agree that socket from Autozone does entail very cheap non rigid plastic.... even at 7.99 seems a little expensive for the quality. That's how they make their money!!!!

    Hopefully they will last at least 3 years...... I was careful when washing my vehicle yesterday.... though still noticed they fogged up and the water gets inside.






    Quote Originally Posted by Starion View Post
    The autozone sockets are definitely not as high quality as the GM $70 replacements. However, so far I haven't had any trouble with the autozone sockets.

    Car washes should not be a problem unless your housing has a leak. I don't buy the theory that the car wash is the problem. The lenses are recessed into the bumper so they shouldn't be exposed to anything harsh enough to break it. For some reason the lenses get vertical separations/cracks which allow water to enter.

  17. #37
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    If it's fogging up then I'd spend the $40 for a replacement housing. Otherwise you'll be changing the socket again soon. It's not difficult, but I found it a pain in the ass to get the wires crimped and heat shrinked within the confined area.

  18. #38
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Post Housing Codensation----------

    I would change the housing if I intended to keep the vehicle for the long run. I'm aiming at selling it to purchase a 2009 Camaro when they are out.

    The lens and housing deteriote through time permitting the gap as we know.... one can also purchase a good sealant to fix the problem. Those wires were certainly space tight.... it was odd how that the left side wires were much longer to work with than that of the right side.

    Like I mentioned, I drilled six holes to the top and bottom of the housing to permit moisture evaporation. I believe that will do it. It's the long period of evaporation/condensation that permits the rust.

    Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by Starion View Post
    If it's fogging up then I'd spend the $40 for a replacement housing. Otherwise you'll be changing the socket again soon. It's not difficult, but I found it a pain in the ass to get the wires crimped and heat shrinked within the confined area.

  19. #39
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    Yeah if you're doing it to get by until you get the 09 camaro that makes sense. Pack the socket well with dilectric grease to prevent corrosion and you should be fine for quite a while.

  20. #40
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Wink Camaro Sales

    I purchased this Silver TA 3 months ago, evidently there were many thing s wrong with it since.......... comes with vehicle age are problems. At any rate, the one thing that worries me the most about those 2009 Camaros are sales. If they don't sell enough of the them, Chevy will discontinue sales.....then there will be limited parts....... I'm sure the GTO owners will have that problem one day when it comes to parts. Just imagine parts for vehicles that are manufacture just for two years let alone 1.

    I guess we will have to wait and see about that Camaro. If they are price in the 40k like the Corvette, I don't think they will make it very long...

    Mattt

    Quote Originally Posted by Starion View Post
    Yeah if you're doing it to get by until you get the 09 camaro that makes sense. Pack the socket well with dilectric grease to prevent corrosion and you should be fine for quite a while.

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