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Trouble Starting, High Idle, Can't go to work...

This is a discussion on Trouble Starting, High Idle, Can't go to work... within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Somewhere around 80% of ALL engine wear happens @ startup when the engine is cold and the oil is in ...

  1. #21
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Somewhere around 80% of ALL engine wear happens @ startup when the engine is cold and the oil is in the bottom of the pan.. Very cold oil does not spread out over vital bearing and cylinder wall surfaces as it should until it gets warm.. But as I stated if folks want to do so that's their choice.. I'll stick with tried and true methods..

  2. #22
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunatikgixxer View Post
    The only thing i ever heard about needs to be driven to warm up, were dirtbikes. I use to race motocross and everyone would ride their bike around mellowly until they warmed up to operating temp. The reason was because if you tried idling and letting them warm up that way, there would be no airflow going through the radiators to cool the motor off, so if you idled for about 10 minutes it would start smoking and your header pipe would turn really red. On cars though, you dont really have to drive it to warm it up considering car motors have a much better coolant system and we also have fans. Like smittro said, if im in a hurry i let it atleast get a little over 100 before i start going and i never rev it over 3k without it being close or at op temp.
    There is a reason for the term, "operating temperature"..

  3. #23
    Member jetaws6's Avatar
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    Yea I never understood why people think your supposed to drive a car to warm it up. Haven t you guys ever seen warm oil vs cold oil when your changing it

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    I always warm our Bird up a bit before it is driven -- especially as the LS1 is prone to piston slap when cold. I also never get stupid with the loud pedal until everything is fully up to temperature, including the transmission. My daily drivers also get a brief warm up, but no where near that of the Bird.

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    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    I was always told to let it idle for a short time (minute or two). And then drive easy until it is warm. The reason behind this was you are doing damage with the motor running cold rather you are letting it idle or driving easy. But if you are driving it, it will warm up quicker. So that means the motor ran a shorter amount of time while it was cold.

    That being said. I think that would work better on cars/trucks with out eletric fans, or that had more room under the hood. My Camaro warms up about the same (idle or drive easy). But my "89 GMC p/u would take for ever to warm up on a cold day if it was just ideling.

  6. #26
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    I just read that one should not adjust the tiny screw on the throttle body to allow more air into the unit at idle, as it can destory your idle air control sensor, whoops, I've been playing with it alot recently,

    I've turned it back to about where I think it was stock, but will having it off/misaligned continue to burn out IAC sensors? or will the computer self adjust and tune everything based on where I've left it?

  7. #27
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackcar View Post
    I was always told to let it idle for a short time (minute or two). And then drive easy until it is warm. The reason behind this was you are doing damage with the motor running cold rather you are letting it idle or driving easy. But if you are driving it, it will warm up quicker. So that means the motor ran a shorter amount of time while it was cold.

    That being said. I think that would work better on cars/trucks with out eletric fans, or that had more room under the hood. My Camaro warms up about the same (idle or drive easy). But my "89 GMC p/u would take for ever to warm up on a cold day if it was just ideling.
    Agreed. The faster the warmup, the better. The longer a car sits idling, warming up that way, it's worse for the engine. It takes longer to get to operating temp, wastes fuel, and just isn't needed. Modern engine oils flow good enough at low temps, providing plenty of cylinder wall lubrication and upper valve train. Then only recomendation I would make for warming up a car would be sub 0 temps, and then I would only recommend less than 5 minutes. Todays modern cars, with fuel injection, don't need to do that! Drive moderately, until warmed up, then go for it.

  8. #28
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I usually just get in my car/truck/whatever and start beating the crap out of it. I'm not worried about a thing.

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