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Trouble Starting, High Idle, Can't go to work...

This is a discussion on Trouble Starting, High Idle, Can't go to work... within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; It's fairly cold here, so I let it warm up to operating temperature for about 10 minutes.. it bounces around ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Trouble Starting, High Idle, Can't go to work...

    It's fairly cold here, so I let it warm up to operating temperature for about 10 minutes.. it bounces around 1,500-1,700 rpms, and if I rev it, to say 3,500, it will stay there and slowly fall down to 1.5-1.7

    Anyone had this happen before? what did you have to replace? I am very weary of shops in this town that are probably used to taking advantage of college kids who don't know jack about cars.

    the car is driveable, but not friendly, I have to stand on the brake to keep it from taking off.

    any help would be appriciated, I'm paying my way through school and I have to go to work...

    edit: it is NOT throwing codes, or I would have already checked it.
    Last edited by justinmc978; 12-27-2010 at 04:28 PM.

  2. #2
    Junior Member 5.7mmImportkilla's Avatar
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    do you have a throttle body bypass mod?

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    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.7mmImportkilla View Post
    do you have a throttle body bypass mod?
    wow, why did I not think about that, yeah the original owner did it when he bought the car, I'll re-route it through the TB and see if that doesnt help in anyway...

  4. #4
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    PCV vacuum leak?

  5. #5
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    PCV vacuum leak?
    also possible, I no light to work with... tomorrow if the weather is decent i'm looking the entire thing over

  6. #6
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Why are you idling your car for 10 minutes before leaving? Try getting in it and just driving.

  7. #7
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Why are you idling your car for 10 minutes before leaving? Try getting in it and just driving.
    tried that first, like I said, I had to stand on the brake pedal to keep it from moving, so parked it and let it sit, figured letting it warm up would help..

  8. #8
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Why are you idling your car for 10 minutes before leaving? Try getting in it and just driving.
    Usually good to warm up the car before you drive it

  9. #9
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Have you checked your coolant sensor? When mine was messed up it was revving all over the place but it did throw a code. It may not be you're problem but it's worth a look.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    Bat mobile black
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    Im definately thinking its the TB bypass since it sounds like your TB is sticking a little.
    SLP Lid, TSP 233/239 112lsa with supporting mods, Pacesetter Headers and ORY, Magnaflow muffler, MSD Spark plug wires, Sportlines, HAL QA1 Adjustable Rear Shocks, BMR Adjustable torque arm, BMR Lower control arms, Monster Level 4 Clutch, 6K HIDs Lows and Fogs. Does 384rwhp 358ft/lbs tq on stock ls1 intake and stock heads, tuned by Jeremy Formato.

  11. #11
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    sold: 1999 firebird
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    fixed: Idle control valve.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    fixed: Idle control valve.
    Replaced it and good to go? Or fiddled with/unstuck the old one?

  13. #13
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Replaced it and good to go? Or fiddled with/unstuck the old one?
    replaced it, did it right.

  14. #14
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    fixed: Idle control valve.
    Good.

    Quote Originally Posted by silverWS.6 View Post
    Usually good to warm up the car before you drive it
    False.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    ^^^+1. The best way to warm up a car is to drive moderately the first 10 -15 minutes. If it is really cold, maybe let it idle for 30 seconds or so, then go.

    TB bypass? I guess that could cause a problem, the OE design is to not allow TB icing under severe cold conditions. We bypass that so our TB doesn't heat up, resulting in a somewhat cooler intake air charge.

    OP, glad it was a simple fix!

  16. #16
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Good.

    False.
    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    ^^^+1. The best way to warm up a car is to drive moderately the first 10 -15 minutes. If it is really cold, maybe let it idle for 30 seconds or so, then go.

    TB bypass? I guess that could cause a problem, the OE design is to not allow TB icing under severe cold conditions. We bypass that so our TB doesn't heat up, resulting in a somewhat cooler intake air charge.

    OP, glad it was a simple fix!
    BS! In (-) temps oil can be like jello driving it is last thing you should ever do.. Guess you don't like you cylinder walls and bearings much eh.. I idle ALL of my cars till @ least some temperature shows on the guage.. Been doing it for 20 years on over 30 cars/trucks I've owned. Driving it when it's ice cold is dumb.. You guys can do as you like..
    Last edited by Smittro; 12-29-2010 at 05:58 AM.

  17. #17
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by silverWS.6 View Post
    Usually good to warm up the car before you drive it
    You are correct..

  18. #18
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    OP, glad it was a simple fix!
    thanks! so am I haha

    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    BS! In (-) temps oil can be like jello driving it is last thing you should ever do.. Guess you don't like you cylinder walls and bearings much eh.. I idle ALL of my cars till @ least some temperature shows on the guage.. Been doing it for 20 years on over 30 cars/trucks I've owned. Driving it when it's ice cold is dumb.. You guys can do as you like..
    thats always sort of been my impression also...

  19. #19
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    thanks! so am I haha



    thats always sort of been my impression also...

    You could do that in the summer time when temps are much higher. But to just get in and drive it ice cold in the winter is never a good idea..

    Especially up north here where we see temps in the negatives pretty regularly in the winter months..
    Last edited by Smittro; 12-29-2010 at 08:47 AM. Reason: added to

  20. #20
    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    The only thing i ever heard about needs to be driven to warm up, were dirtbikes. I use to race motocross and everyone would ride their bike around mellowly until they warmed up to operating temp. The reason was because if you tried idling and letting them warm up that way, there would be no airflow going through the radiators to cool the motor off, so if you idled for about 10 minutes it would start smoking and your header pipe would turn really red. On cars though, you dont really have to drive it to warm it up considering car motors have a much better coolant system and we also have fans. Like smittro said, if im in a hurry i let it atleast get a little over 100 before i start going and i never rev it over 3k without it being close or at op temp.

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