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Trans am ws6 solution??

This is a discussion on Trans am ws6 solution?? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Got a TRANS AM WS6 41K miles and its a manual transmission year 2000. The oil change was done about ...

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    Trans am ws6 solution??

    Got a TRANS AM WS6 41K miles and its a manual transmission year 2000. The oil change was done about 3k miles ago with M1 fully synthetic and now the oil change light is back on. Is this regarding the engine oil or the transmission oil or both? I've been noticing rough shifting and especially trying to go into 2nd and 3rd gears! Sometimes it even pops out of gear (feels like it grinds through but doesnt make noise just isnt smooth). Could this be due to low trans mission oil? Dont know when its been looked at or changed....Could it be a bent Shift Fork? How can i tell whether its the oil or the fork or both... Also Im thinking about doing all the oils/fluids to AMSOIL, are there others i should consider? Stock maybe? Also the steering wheel sometimes is impossible to rotate and sometimes its absolutly fine dont know what thats all about... Another issue im having is when i start the car sometimes I have to hold the key in ignition point for like 6 seconds before it finally starts up. Is this the battery it makes noise but it just takes a while to finally start up. I also am hearing like a slight whining noise from under the hood (its not loud but noticeable) no clue what that is either. The car has low miles do i need to consider changing spark plugs or any thing else i should look into since now im finally going too do some work. I dont want to drive it to much because i wanna make sure i get the shifting and all this cured to prevent any damage so please please any help or expertise will be greatly APPRECIATED THANKS!!!!!

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    I'll hit on the topic of the oil change light and tell you it's for engine oil only and nothing else. These cars have an oil monitoring system and the light will illuminate when the system parameters are met. You can reset the light by turning the ignition switch ON, then pressing the trip meter reset button in until the oil change light flashes three times and goes off.
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    Sounds like the fuel pump is taking a a second or too to prime the system. I would start by changing the fuel filter - good preventative maintenance. We have a great sticky on maintenance items that you should take a look at: General Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals

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    now the oil change light is back on. Is this regarding the engine oil or the transmission oil or both? Engine oil only.

    I've been noticing rough shifting and especially trying to go into 2nd and 3rd gears! Sometimes it even pops out of gear (feels like it grinds through but doesnt make noise just isnt smooth). Could this be due to low trans mission oil? Dont know when its been looked at or changed....Could it be a bent Shift Fork? How can i tell whether its the oil or the fork or both... Grinding and popping out of gear is indicative of a bad synchronizer key inside the transmission. This is internal to the transmission. The stock OEM synchronizer keys are stamped hollow metal and can easily bend or break during hard shifts. Many people upgrade those to solid keys which are more durable. You can flush your transmission fluid and re-fill it or check to see if the level is low and add some if it is. However, unfortunately, I am leaning towards a worn synchronizer key/s.

    Another issue im having is when i start the car sometimes I have to hold the key in ignition point for like 6 seconds before it finally starts up. As Jeff mentioned, start by replacing the fuel filter. It could be clogged causing less fuel delivery. That would be the easiest and cheapest route to try first. Secondly you could have a weak fuel pump. Can you hear the pump priming? Once the key is turned to the on position, the fuel pump located inside the tank primes fuel up to the engine so there is fuel there when you do to first start the car. A weak pump will take longer to send fuel up front. The pump may also become loud.

    I also am hearing like a slight whining noise from under the hood (its not loud but noticeable) no clue what that is either. You could have a vacuum leak. Does the car idle fine? RPM's are steady? This "whining" noise, does it get louder with RPM's rising? Check your belts while you are looking under the hood to ensure they all look good. No frays or cracks.

    The car has low miles do i need to consider changing spark plugs or any thing else i should look into since now im finally going too do some work. After any used car purchase, it's always a good idea to change all of the fluids (oil, transmission, rear end, radiator, etc) and inspect things like the belts, battery terminals, hoses for cracks, etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    now the oil change light is back on. Is this regarding the engine oil or the transmission oil or both? Engine oil only.

    I've been noticing rough shifting and especially trying to go into 2nd and 3rd gears! Sometimes it even pops out of gear (feels like it grinds through but doesnt make noise just isnt smooth). Could this be due to low trans mission oil? Dont know when its been looked at or changed....Could it be a bent Shift Fork? How can i tell whether its the oil or the fork or both... Grinding and popping out of gear is indicative of a bad synchronizer key inside the transmission. This is internal to the transmission. The stock OEM synchronizer keys are stamped hollow metal and can easily bend or break during hard shifts. Many people upgrade those to solid keys which are more durable. You can flush your transmission fluid and re-fill it or check to see if the level is low and add some if it is. However, unfortunately, I am leaning towards a worn synchronizer key/s.

    Another issue im having is when i start the car sometimes I have to hold the key in ignition point for like 6 seconds before it finally starts up. As Jeff mentioned, start by replacing the fuel filter. It could be clogged causing less fuel delivery. That would be the easiest and cheapest route to try first. Secondly you could have a weak fuel pump. Can you hear the pump priming? Once the key is turned to the on position, the fuel pump located inside the tank primes fuel up to the engine so there is fuel there when you do to first start the car. A weak pump will take longer to send fuel up front. The pump may also become loud.

    I also am hearing like a slight whining noise from under the hood (its not loud but noticeable) no clue what that is either. You could have a vacuum leak. Does the car idle fine? RPM's are steady? This "whining" noise, does it get louder with RPM's rising? Check your belts while you are looking under the hood to ensure they all look good. No frays or cracks.

    The car has low miles do i need to consider changing spark plugs or any thing else i should look into since now im finally going too do some work. After any used car purchase, it's always a good idea to change all of the fluids (oil, transmission, rear end, radiator, etc) and inspect things like the belts, battery terminals, hoses for cracks, etc.
    Damn good advice. Run with this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    now the oil change light is back on. Is this regarding the engine oil or the transmission oil or both? Engine oil only.

    I've been noticing rough shifting and especially trying to go into 2nd and 3rd gears! Sometimes it even pops out of gear (feels like it grinds through but doesnt make noise just isnt smooth). Could this be due to low trans mission oil? Dont know when its been looked at or changed....Could it be a bent Shift Fork? How can i tell whether its the oil or the fork or both... Grinding and popping out of gear is indicative of a bad synchronizer key inside the transmission. This is internal to the transmission. The stock OEM synchronizer keys are stamped hollow metal and can easily bend or break during hard shifts. Many people upgrade those to solid keys which are more durable. You can flush your transmission fluid and re-fill it or check to see if the level is low and add some if it is. However, unfortunately, I am leaning towards a worn synchronizer key/s.

    Another issue im having is when i start the car sometimes I have to hold the key in ignition point for like 6 seconds before it finally starts up. As Jeff mentioned, start by replacing the fuel filter. It could be clogged causing less fuel delivery. That would be the easiest and cheapest route to try first. Secondly you could have a weak fuel pump. Can you hear the pump priming? Once the key is turned to the on position, the fuel pump located inside the tank primes fuel up to the engine so there is fuel there when you do to first start the car. A weak pump will take longer to send fuel up front. The pump may also become loud.

    I also am hearing like a slight whining noise from under the hood (its not loud but noticeable) no clue what that is either. You could have a vacuum leak. Does the car idle fine? RPM's are steady? This "whining" noise, does it get louder with RPM's rising? Check your belts while you are looking under the hood to ensure they all look good. No frays or cracks.

    The car has low miles do i need to consider changing spark plugs or any thing else i should look into since now im finally going too do some work. After any used car purchase, it's always a good idea to change all of the fluids (oil, transmission, rear end, radiator, etc) and inspect things like the belts, battery terminals, hoses for cracks, etc.
    THANKS!! I will check this out, I will change the engine oil and the transmission oil... Do you think if its the synchronizer i should just keep driving on it or do you think it needs immediate attention so it doesnt get worse. Also regarding the start up, I park my car outside and in the morning when its cold it fires right up, but if the car is warm and then i start it usually takes a while to start(dont know if that is something else but will try the fuel filter first). The car idles fine it just never use to make this noise its not really whinning but I know it something thats spinning probably the belt needs some conditioning I know that i never use to hear this nopise inside the car before.... Will check this out thanks for the advice guys...

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    Should i stick with the default fluids "what the car comes factory with" or is amsoil pretty good for all the fluids? thanks

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    If the synchronizer key completely breaks, you'll know it. It can cause the car to become stuck in a particular gear. Mine got stuck in 4th gear and I was about 35 min from home. I had to drive the car all the way home in 4th gear. Talk about fun. Luckily I had a 4.11 gear which helped with getting the car going from a stop. Prior to that I knew I had a worn key from the summer before and I was able to drive it for a year until it finally gave. An aftermarket shifter with positive solid stops will prevent this from happening in the future.

    I have used Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil since the 1st oil change 11 years ago. No issues. Some people like Amsoil and Mobile 1. They are all good oil brands.

    As far as the other fluids, I would just use what the owner's manual recommends.
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    If the noise changes with speed, most likely it's something that is rotating. Could be a squeaky belt or bearings going bad on one of your pulleys.

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    just one thing to add - the oil light only represents that the oil is low, not that it has reached its mileage life. If it is coming on, you need to check you oil levels. LS1's seem to love eating oil. IMHO it's because of the shitty PCV system that they have. I recommend checking the PCV system too. Mine was eating a quart of oil every 6-8 weeks. (I also have a lead foot) After I installed a catch can and LS6 VCT = no more issues

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    just one thing to add - the oil light only represents that the oil is low, not that it has reached its mileage life. If it is coming on, you need to check you oil levels. LS1's seem to love eating oil. IMHO it's because of the shitty PCV system that they have. I recommend checking the PCV system too. Mine was eating a quart of oil every 6-8 weeks. (I also have a lead foot) After I installed a catch can and LS6 VCT = no more issues
    There are two oil lights, one is the low oil light as u mentioned(which in my opinion waits a bit to long before deciding to clue the driver in, it lights up when you have around 2qts left in the pan), the other is the the light for the oil life monitoring system (which in my experence waits way to long between changes, I prefer changing it using the 3 months or 3k mile sys). As far as the engines oil consumption the pcv systems are almost always the guilty party, I'm planning to make a catch can that will be plumbed back into the oil pan..
    Last edited by 99RedTa6spd; 11-26-2012 at 02:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99RedTa6spd View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    just one thing to add - the oil light only represents that the oil is low, not that it has reached its mileage life. If it is coming on, you need to check you oil levels. LS1's seem to love eating oil. IMHO it's because of the shitty PCV system that they have. I recommend checking the PCV system too. Mine was eating a quart of oil every 6-8 weeks. (I also have a lead foot) After I installed a catch can and LS6 VCT = no more issues
    There are two oil lights, one is the low oil light as u mentioned(which in my opinion waits a bit to long before deciding to clue the driver in, it lights up when you have around 2qts left in the pan), the other is the the light for the oil life monitoring system (which in my experence waits way to long between changes, I prefer changing it using the 3 months or 3k mile sys). As far as the engines oil consumption the pcv systems are almost always the guilty party, I'm planning to make a catch can that will be plumbed back into the oil pan..
    I never knew we have a oil life monitoring system in our cars, mine has never come on. Unless I don't have it in mine.
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    It must be one more of those things that the 98's don't have like a low fuel light.

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    I forget what year the oil life monitoring system was added. I know both my '01's had it, though. My car doesn't have a low fuel light, but if you run the tank too low the check gauges light comes on.

    Edit: The oil life monitoring system was added in '99.
    Last edited by FinZ28; 11-27-2012 at 06:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    It must be one more of those things that the 98's don't have like a low fuel light.
    Oh well I would take not having those over cracked door panels and a bubbling sail panel any day.

    You could check your fuel pressure at the rails to see if the fuel pump is working correctly before you change the filter and after. This would at least give you an idea of where to start.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 11-27-2012 at 12:30 PM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Oh well I would take not having those over cracked door panels and a bubbling sail panel any day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    If the noise changes with speed, most likely it's something that is rotating. Could be a squeaky belt or bearings going bad on one of your pulleys.
    Hey i second everything you have said. You have hit all nails on the head. I would give you an award if i could but for now i will give you a smiley face .

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    I try to help when I can. We've all been there, so it's nice to return the favor now that I have a little experience under my belt with these things.

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    Nightmare RedFenix_68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I try to help when I can. We've all been there, so it's nice to return the favor now that I have a little experience under my belt with these things.
    yes sir your def right there.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    About the whining noise. Nobody has mentioned low power steering fluid. This will make your PS pump noisey, if it's a bit low. PS pumps can leak, as well as hoses/rack. You may only need to top it off and then see how long it takes to get low again.

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