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Trans Am or Ws6 power different URGENT!

This is a discussion on Trans Am or Ws6 power different URGENT! within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Well tomorrow is the day I finally make a decision between a 2000 base trans am manual or a 1998 ...

  1. #1
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    Trans Am or Ws6 power different URGENT!

    Well tomorrow is the day I finally make a decision between a 2000 base trans am manual or a 1998 trans am ws6 automatic. I was wondering how drastically different they are. I know its supposed to have a more functional ram air, better suspension, better exhaust flow, brakes, etc. But how much better is the suspension and can it live over rougher roads than the T/A? I have only driven the ws6 and tomorrow afternoon is when I get to try the T/A. Unlike my current firebird and camaro which I'm selling everything was firm on the road, grip was outstanding, the comfort level was nice, and cornering was great. How much of a step down are we talking about with the T/A? I hear the airbox is still shit unless you buy an after market piece too on the ws6. What parts of the suspension are upgraded in the ws6 package and if I bought the T/A base what parts could I purchase ( pretend price not being an issue ) to get a WAY better overall suspension than the ws6 has? Its just a lot of people say they would prefer to not rip out all the ws6 parts and just buy a T/A and get a better suspension package but I don't know what parts are better/worse. Same thing goes for power output....I saw a T/A on a dyno tonight that just barely put out over 300 RWHP and 300 RWTQ. So is it worth getting the slightly higher out put of the ws6 which averages around 320-330 RW and adding a head/cam or base t/a + head and came. One more stupid question....if I put an automatic and a manual on a dyno would one be more powerful ( braces for the bashing ). I hope someone can give me advice and I realize I'm asking a lot but as a college student this money is fucking A LOT for me and I have to lose my two cars for it. I wish I knew more about cars myself and some might say I'm not worthy of a car like this but as a early med. school student I have NO TIME so sorry to anyone who I'm pissing off for being stupid in this field!

  2. #2
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    What look do you like better? That should should be your deciding factor. The power difference from the WS6 won't show up on the dyno, you only gain any benefit from the Ram Air at close to 100mph. So don't let that be your deciding factor as far as ultimate head/cam results. Fact is the RA won't make any difference. Unless you have a factory freak, no stock WS6 is putting 320-330 rwhp down. The 300 you saw with the base car is good for ANY T/A, WS6 or not.

    A manual will dyno higher, as there are less drivetrain losses. With an auto, they dyno numbers aren't the end of the story, an auto could dyno lower than a manual yet still be faster on the track, it depends on the rest of the drivetrain setup. Don't get too caught up in dyno numbers.

    What info you SHOULD include are price and mileage of each car.

    Oh, and brakes are the same between the two cars, and the WS6 swaybars come up all the time on ebay. It's also generally known that the stock shocks on these cars are junk, whether it's a WS6 or not. A very popular upgrade is a set of aftermarket springs(Sam Strano) and a set of Koni shocks. So there goes your ws6 suspension pieces anyway.

    As far as exhaust flow, if you're talking heads/cam, I'm sure you're not going to leave the exhaust stock. One of the first things people do is replace the stock exhaust.

    Honestly, betwen the two, and assuming a good driver, the base T/A manual will most likely be faster.

    And the airbox lid you mentioned is about 90 bucks, cheaper if you find on used. That works for both cars.

    Once again, main reason to buy a WS6 is for looks/bragging rights. Basically all the WS6 pieces except for the hood or possibly the wheels end up getting replaced on these cars once the modding starts.

    Personally I'd go for the T/A, as the manual will be more fun and get better gas mileage.

    Assuming the miles are decent though.
    Last edited by StuntmanMike; 07-28-2008 at 04:40 AM.

  3. #3
    Member jamessr's Avatar
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    paint jobs!
    nuff said

  4. #4
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    cliff notes please?

  5. #5
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Get the 2000.

  6. #6
    Member Aetos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Get the 2000.
    agreed... its manual

  7. #7
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    Yeah like StuntmanMike said Power is the same, The only Real difference is in the Asthetics.
    I also Vote for the Base T/A with tha Manual Then you can build your own Tuner T/A
    Craig
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    Gone but not forgoten
    NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
    1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98

  8. #8
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Yow really wont be able to tell the diff get the one that is in best condition, that or choose between a4 or m6. Can't go wrong with either but take it to a f-body performance mechanic in your area and have them check everything out before you bite the bullet. Show us pics of the cars man!!!

  9. #9
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Yeah, after I got mine, I planned on changing to the WS6 hood but, now I like it. I can concentrate on other areas. You may have more options with the manual. Get the baseline T/A.

    All depends on what you're gonna do with it I guess. You may just want an auto for diff reasons.

    I'm happy with my auto and have driven both. Doesn't really matter to me that it's auto. Sometimes I miss the manual but, I'm sure we would miss one without the other. Nice to be able to own both.

  10. #10
    Larry Dingleberry Racing
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    so what turned out did you get the 6spd. or auto?

  11. #11
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    WS6 adds at least 37 rwhp.

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